Stihl 261cm, I need some help!

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Working on the key.
ok doesn't look bad, make sure the flywheel bore and the crank stub are clean, no dirt or oil. You want this to be a dry fit so it locks on good. When you install the flywheel give it a good shove so it locks on the taper well, then tighten the nut good. Set the coil gap to 10 thousandths, 2 sheets of paper will work or a business card. place that on the flywheel, loosen the nuts on the coil, push down very lightly and re tighten and pull the paper out. if you have rust on the flywheel magnets or coil use emery paper or such and sand the rust off. It will make a nice blue spark this way.
 
Key isn't absolutely necessary. Make (small, exact) marks on the "outside" of the flywheel for exactly correct rotational position. Place flywheel, and tighten flywheel nut at first "gently" and then tighter until flywheel held in exactly correct rotational position and tight on the taper of the crankshaft end. (It is the taper"' that holds the flywheel; the key just lines it up, really.)
Other relevant activities can include printing out a "degree wheel" (from the internet), sticking it onto an old CD. Observing timing as you install flywheel, etc. Top dead center can be observed with a dial indicator, but lots of people are pretty good with a metal pin, etc.
 
Key isn't absolutely necessary. Make (small, exact) marks on the "outside" of the flywheel for exactly correct rotational position. Place flywheel, and tighten flywheel nut at first "gently" and then tighter until flywheel held in exactly correct rotational position and tight on the taper of the crankshaft end. (It is the taper"' that holds the flywheel; the key just lines it up, really.)
Other relevant activities can include printing out a "degree wheel" (from the internet), sticking it onto an old CD. Observing timing as you install flywheel, etc. Top dead center can be observed with a dial indicator, but lots of people are pretty good with a metal pin, etc.
TDC with a screwdriver, mark that on the case and the flywheel when you have it lined up before you tighten it down that's when it might move. I always had good luck with a 3/8 impact gun on the nut.
 
Got it running using a key the I made, which it soon stripped. I've ordered a new flywheel after talking with the customer, I think that is prolly best.
Thank you guys very much for the input, I think slowly but surely I'm learning from y'all.
How did you tighten an impact gun or the piston jammed method? That key shouldn't strip put an impact on it 3/8 drive size, not 1/2 before you spend money.
 
How did you tighten an impact gun or the piston jammed method? That key shouldn't strip put an impact on it 3/8 drive size, not 1/2 before you spend money.
I don't have a 3/8" impact unfortunately, so it was tightened with a wrench and a rope stuffed in the cylinder. I do have a dewalt impact driver, that don't produce more torque than I can though.
 
I don't have a 3/8" impact unfortunately, so it was tightened with a wrench and a rope stuffed in the cylinder. I do have a dewalt impact driver, that don't produce more torque than I can though.
Borrow one before you buy that flywheel ,sure you need one, Milwaukee is nice. The 3/8 Millwaulkkee I have has done hundreds of flywheels.
 
Ive already got the dewalt 20v battery system, dewalt and Milwaukee have similar specs or the dewalt has more power sometimes.
So blast it on using the spark plug and compression to hold it back, nothing else, just don't go nuts on it. Clean it good where it seats first. Not lug nut on a car wheel tight!
 

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