Jonsered Chainsaws

[heimannm]

In this area, early 80's Jonsered(s) saws all did come with the Tilton/Total super bars. My 621 still had the hand guard and the spark plug cover when it devoured the PTO side bearing after 26 years of hard work. Original bar as well, although I went through so many chains I lost count..



Edit - I did have to replace the bar on the 621 very early in its career, a slight incident with a stuck bar, removed the powerhead and used a second bar to cut the offending limb...unfortunately the stuck bar went down with the limb and made a very good imitation of the letter V.

I found a photo of my 2050 as well. I bought both of these saws new and used them heavily...



Mark

 

[numnutz6383]

The bars that came on the old Jonsereds said "JONSEREDS" on them. I can't remember who made them....maybe Oregon. If they had Oregon tips on them most likely Oregon. I never ran any Windsor tips, so don't remember their history. Everybody has been bought out since. Only history & memories now.

I always bought just the powerhead and then put the bars/chains on from my stock. Couldn't power an .063 bar on a an 80/90...should have been a .058., for example.



Kevin

Do you think an .063 bar is to much for a 910?

 

[Bob Hedgecutter]

Do you think an .063 bar is to much for a 910?

Guessing that was a typo power for put?
I mean gauge dont matter a toss- but to be ethically correct with Swedish stuff the bar from factory should be 0.058 and so as not to upset the Gods- or the rotational forces of the Earth- you should not put 0.063 bars and chains on them????

 

[Real1shepherd]

No, it had to do with the Swedish design and how the thickness fit in the PTO sandwich. While you could run a .063 on a 80/90, you'll get better work/power out of a .058. Back in the day when Bailey's had real people who knew what they were doing, they wouldn't have sold you a .063 bar for a 80/90.

@numnuts; I never ran a 910 in the woods except for one day as a loaner. They ran 36" bars with 3/8" pro chain of the day when you could find them in the PNW. My one-day experience was in CO at the time. So....I can't answer your question. In that cc range, Jonsereds usually recommended a .058 bar back in the day.

Kevin

 

[numnutz6383]

No, it had to do with the Swedish design and how the thickness fit in the PTO sandwich. While you could run a .063 on a 80/90, you'll get better work/power out of a .058. Back in the day when Bailey's had real people who knew what they were doing, they wouldn't have sold you a .063 bar for a 80/90.

@numnuts; I never ran a 910 in the woods except for one day as a loaner. They ran 36" bars with 3/8" pro chain of the day when you could find them in the PNW. My one-day experience was in CO at the time. So....I can't answer your question. In that cc range, Jonsereds usually recommended a .058 bar back in the day.

Kevin

@Cantdog what does your 910 wear for a bar?

The bar I got for my 910 from a member here is an older Windsor 32" 3/8" 0.063 (ground out the slot to fit my 10mm studs), I got an Archer semi-chisel full skip chain for it. I have no experience running anything that big, so I've been considering buying an Oregon D009 28" bar (and grinding the slot out) for it as a shorter more " wieldy" intermediate option.

 

[pastryguyhawaii]

Sorry I can't help with that.....yet.......LOL!

https://chainsawr.com/products/jonsered-nordfeller-inflatable-wedge-chainsaw-and-display-1979

 

[numnutz6383]

I thought I'd share two things with you guys. One pertaining to seals for the 910, the other to the air filter, both which I've read were NLA.

Well in the last few months I've amassed quite a few seals for my 910 project.

What may be interesting to some of you are the two sets of seals on the bottom left. The leftmost are NOS p/n# 504 14 62-00 which I've previously heard was NLA (these were also used on the 920/930 looking at the IPLs I've saved). With the thanks of a local Husqvarna dealer I was able to locate them at a small engine shop in NY. The list of several dealers showing those seals in stock was East coast only, there may be more out there in other parts of the country. Other interesting thing is the set of seals just to the right, which I purchased from a French bearing supplier (123bearing.com). They measure and appear to be identical to the OEM 504 14 62-00 seals. Now I don't know if the seals on my 910 (seen on the top left) were ever replaced before, but what was in there is identical to both these seals.

With all that said, if given a choice, which of these would you use? What are the pros/cons of the rubber coated vs non coated designs?

Now the second thing. Maybe some of you knew this (looking @Cantdog, @Real1shepherd and @heimannm) but I haven't come across it on the forum, so I figured it may be worth sharing. A few months ago I came across the NOS OEM air filter p/n #504 35 71-12, which I also read was unobtanium. When I received it I noticed that it was slightly different than the one that came off my 910.


On the left was what was on my 910 originally, on the right is the NOS OEM filter I got off fleabay. The two are identical except for where the filter interfaces with the two style intakes that were used on the 910/920. Because of the different design, the filter on the right used with the aluminum air intake on the left would result in very poor interface seal, there being no way to use the gasket p/n #503 08 11-01 (top right, which I was missing, but was able to eventually find on fleabay), even if used with the plastic intake on the right, the gasket interferes with the locating pin on the filter causing it to lift up creating a gap between the filter and intake.

My saw's original filter (on the left), with the gasket placed into the groove of the plastic air intake on the right, all fit perfectly and, to me, offer the best interface seal and filtration.

Hope this is of some help to someone.

 

[heimannm]

The 910/920/930 saw that I have been in all had the TCM rubber covered seals. I have used that type of seal in a few other saws including kart engine McCulloch's without any issues.

I currently have a 2245 in the shop (same saw as a Husqvarna 445?) with a badly leaking seal on the PTO side, this one appears to have a the metal body but from the IPL and a Google search that doesn't seem quite right. Can anyone provide insight into this seal?



Mark

 

[numnutz6383]

The 910/920/930 saw that I have been in all had the TCM rubber covered seals. I have used that type of seal in a few other saws including kart engine McCulloch's without any issues.

I currently have a 2245 in the shop (same saw as a Husqvarna 445?) with a badly leaking seal on the PTO side, this one appears to have a the metal body but from the IPL and a Google search that doesn't seem quite right. Can anyone provide insight into this seal?

View attachment 1179256

Mark

I have a working 445 and a spare parts 445 the shelf. I'll take a look at the parts saw and let you know

 

[Real1shepherd]

I thought I'd share two things with you guys. One pertaining to seals for the 910, the other to the air filter, both which I've read were NLA.

Well in the last few months I've amassed quite a few seals for my 910 project.
View attachment 1179159
What may be interesting to some of you are the two sets of seals on the bottom left. The leftmost are NOS p/n# 504 14 62-00 which I've previously heard was NLA (these were also used on the 920/930 looking at the IPLs I've saved). With the thanks of a local Husqvarna dealer I was able to locate them at a small engine shop in NY. The list of several dealers showing those seals in stock was East coast only, there may be more out there in other parts of the country. Other interesting thing is the set of seals just to the right, which I purchased from a French bearing supplier (123bearing.com). They measure and appear to be identical to the OEM 504 14 62-00 seals. Now I don't know if the seals on my 910 (seen on the top left) were ever replaced before, but what was in there is identical to both these seals.

With all that said, if given a choice, which of these would you use? What are the pros/cons of the rubber coated vs non coated designs?

Now the second thing. Maybe some of you knew this (looking @Cantdog, @Real1shepherd and @heimannm) but I haven't come across it on the forum, so I figured it may be worth sharing. A few months ago I came across the NOS OEM air filter p/n #504 35 71-12, which I also read was unobtanium. When I received it I noticed that it was slightly different than the one that came off my 910.
View attachment 1179160
View attachment 1179168
On the left was what was on my 910 originally, on the right is the NOS OEM filter I got off fleabay. The two are identical except for where the filter interfaces with the two style intakes that were used on the 910/920. Because of the different design, the filter on the right used with the aluminum air intake on the left would result in very poor interface seal, there being no way to use the gasket p/n #503 08 11-01 (top right, which I was missing, but was able to eventually find on fleabay), even if used with the plastic intake on the right, the gasket interferes with the locating pin on the filter causing it to lift up creating a gap between the filter and intake.

My saw's original filter (on the left), with the gasket placed into the groove of the plastic air intake on the right, all fit perfectly and, to me, offer the best interface seal and filtration.

Hope this is of some help to someone.

Almost all the seals made today come from China. One of the items NA makers have let go. SKF, TCM...... I've used them without incident. I'd be inclined to use the metal seals on the bottom left of your pic, especially if they are painted metal. Once driven in with the paint, they really seal up tightly. I have used the rubber seals without incident.

Interesting trivia on the AF and different style air horns. I found in my stock a 910 filter that was flocked. I have no idea where that came from. While it's a good idea to have the best air intake seal, Robin and I have discussed this before. The cylinder plating is so hard, they can take an unbelievable amount of sawdust trash.....older Jonsereds.


Kevin

 

[Real1shepherd]

@Cantdog what does your 910 wear for a bar?

The bar I got for my 910 from a member here is an older Windsor 32" 3/8" 0.063 (ground out the slot to fit my 10mm studs), I got an Archer semi-chisel full skip chain for it. I have no experience running anything that big, so I've been considering buying an Oregon D009 28" bar (and grinding the slot out) for it as a shorter more " wieldy" intermediate option.

If you're not using the 910 commercially, you'll be fine with a .063. If you want authenticity, it would have been a .058. Not worth taking off the .063 for some rare .058 that's potentially hard to find....up to you. I just happened to have a few old Oregon and a Carlton in .058.. Now that I'm retired, the bars I have will last me.

When I finish one of my 910's, it will have a 32" .058 bar with .404. full skip 68CJ Oregon square file chain. Unless one used 3/8" chain, that would be about its power limit. That's what I used professionally in my 90.

Kevin

 

[Cantdog]

I thought I'd share two things with you guys. One pertaining to seals for the 910, the other to the air filter, both which I've read were NLA.

Well in the last few months I've amassed quite a few seals for my 910 project.
View attachment 1179159
What may be interesting to some of you are the two sets of seals on the bottom left. The leftmost are NOS p/n# 504 14 62-00 which I've previously heard was NLA (these were also used on the 920/930 looking at the IPLs I've saved). With the thanks of a local Husqvarna dealer I was able to locate them at a small engine shop in NY. The list of several dealers showing those seals in stock was East coast only, there may be more out there in other parts of the country. Other interesting thing is the set of seals just to the right, which I purchased from a French bearing supplier (123bearing.com). They measure and appear to be identical to the OEM 504 14 62-00 seals. Now I don't know if the seals on my 910 (seen on the top left) were ever replaced before, but what was in there is identical to both these seals.

With all that said, if given a choice, which of these would you use? What are the pros/cons of the rubber coated vs non coated designs?

Now the second thing. Maybe some of you knew this (looking @Cantdog, @Real1shepherd and @heimannm) but I haven't come across it on the forum, so I figured it may be worth sharing. A few months ago I came across the NOS OEM air filter p/n #504 35 71-12, which I also read was unobtanium. When I received it I noticed that it was slightly different than the one that came off my 910.
View attachment 1179160
View attachment 1179168
On the left was what was on my 910 originally, on the right is the NOS OEM filter I got off fleabay. The two are identical except for where the filter interfaces with the two style intakes that were used on the 910/920. Because of the different design, the filter on the right used with the aluminum air intake on the left would result in very poor interface seal, there being no way to use the gasket p/n #503 08 11-01 (top right, which I was missing, but was able to eventually find on fleabay), even if used with the plastic intake on the right, the gasket interferes with the locating pin on the filter causing it to lift up creating a gap between the filter and intake.

My saw's original filter (on the left), with the gasket placed into the groove of the plastic air intake on the right, all fit perfectly and, to me, offer the best interface seal and filtration.

Hope this is of some help to someone.

Your 910 would have come stock with the OEM metal seals. These seals fit everything from the 49SP clear up through the 111S including the 910 and 8XX and 9XX Jonsereds.
So if yours came to you with the rubber coated ones they've been changed out. I agree with Kevin, if your metal cased OEM seals are soft and supple I'd use those.

Can't offer much on the AF but the best seal is best set-up.

On a side note, a while back I bought a bunch of NOS OEM parts. In this was lot was perhaps a dozen or more of the black plastic 910E air horns. Anyone need one let me know.....way more than I need/want!!!

 

[numnutz6383]

Your 910 would have come stock with the OEM metal seals. These seals fit everything from the 49SP clear up through the 111S including the 910 and 8XX and 9XX Jonsereds.
So if yours came to you with the rubber coated ones they've been changed out. I agree with Kevin, if your metal cased OEM seals are soft and supple I'd use those.

Can't offer much on the AF but the best seal is best set-up.

On a side note, a while back I bought a bunch of NOS OEM parts. In this was lot was perhaps a dozen or more of the black plastic 910E air horns. Anyone need one let me know.....way more than I need/want!!!

Mine had the metal seals in it. I'll replace with the metal NOS OEM, they are as soft and supple as the rubber coated one in my possession.

 

[heimannm]

This one walked into the stop this week..







Kind of made me think of the Bellamy Brothers...



Owner said it had been setting for a while and wouldn't start. He'd replaced the spark plug and put fresh fuel in it. I gave it a prime and it would start & run until the prime was gone. I pulled the carburetor expecting to find the metering diaphragm stiff but all was good. I put a new kit in it anyway, first one in 40 years...

Since I didn't think the diaphragms were the issue I thought I'd better check the fuel line and fuel filter.



That seemed to be the problem. Another happy customer.

Mark

 

[heimannm]

Seals for the 2245 came in. Needed a little cleanup first.







I ran out of time today, I will pressure/vacuum test in the morning.

Mark