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woodturner

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I'm considering purchasing a new Husky 350 c/s in the near future. On the Husqvarna website, they recommend an 18" bar for this saw. I've seen the #350 on some websites that offer this model saw with an 20" bar. I'm thinking of getting the 20" bar.

My question to you more knowledgeable sawyers, is the Husky #350 powerful enough, & capable of pulling an 20" bar?

Thanks.
 
It depends.....

..... on what you are cutting and how fast you want to cut it. I used to have a 350 and they are a really good saw. It balances nicely with an 18" bar but a 16" will work the saw a little less and there are fewer teeth to sharpen. The longer bars are nice because they give you more reach for limbing and felling but if you havent used a saw much you will probably find yourself "Rocking out". I would stay with the 18 or even go with a 16 if you are cutting mostly hardwoods.

Brent
 
I'll be cutting wood up to 25" to 30" diameter, so I thought the 20" bar would make cutting the larger diameters a lot easier. I've cut the larger diameters with a 14" bar before, and it's quite time consuming, as well as quite a workout! WHEW!! That's my reasoning for the 20" bar.

Comments, please? Thanks.
 
How big a saw you will get will naturally depend on what you can afford, and how much you are gonna use it. If you sell wood or burn a significant amount of wood, get a bigger and better saw. If you have a pile of wood in your back yard you want to clean up and get exercise from, opt for a lesser model. I had a hard time convincing my Dad to get a saw that would run a bigger bar than what he needed, but run a smaller bar than what the saw was capable of.But after I talked him into that, he was glad I did.
 
Those are some big trees for that size saw! I'm not saying it wont do it but you'll be working the sheet out of it! Depending on how many trees that size you are going to cut and how often you are going to use it, you might want to look into something bigger. Even a 55 rancher will have a little more snot for a 20 inch bar for about the same $$. I might suggest looking into a bigger saw like the husky 359 or 365 for your purposes. There is also 1 or 2 brand new 261's on ebay right now. They are discontinued but were a great saw and can be had for around $370.00, I believe. Are these trees softwoods or hardwoods?

Brent
 
I sell those saws as 2150 Jonsereds, which is the same saw as the 350 Husky.

I do not generally consider them to be 20 inch bar capable saws, even with .325 pitch chain. They work nicely with an 18 inch bar.

If you want to pull 20 inches of .325 in hardwood, I would go to 55cc or slightly more. The 359 Husky with a 20 inch would be a good choice (.325 pitch), also the 55 would be better.

Another nice saw in this size range is the John Deere CS 52 / Efco 952 (18 inch bar) or the John Deere CS56 / Efco 956 (20 inch bar)

This opinion is based on actual usage experience, not hearsay picked up from others.

There are, of course, other good choices. I just don't have the hands on experience with them.
 
I intended to mention, in the other posts, that I'm referring to hardwoods. The saw will not be used every day, probably a couple of times a week. I'm a woodturner, so that's my intended use, to cut stock to install on the lathe. I'll probably use it a little more often than the average home owner, but, a lot less than you folks that do this for a living. The trees usually will already be felled & on the ground. I just want to be able to handle anything 25" or so in diameter when the opportunity presents itself. Especially after fighting the 14" bar thru the 25" cherry, after a storm uprooted it.

My $ limit as what I want to spend is set under $300. I didn't want to spend, say $150 for a cheaper brand saw, but would rather apply that $150 towards a good, name brand saw, such as a husky. I choose the #350 due to it's lower vibration ratings.

I'm thinking, that with my intended use, that the #350, will probably be able to handle the 20" bar without too much problem.

Your opinion?

Thanks.
 
Have you shopped around to any dealers in your area. You may find a good used saw to suit your needs. Sold by a reputable dealer, of course. Never thought of this, but do saw dealers ever have demo saws they will let you try out before buying?
 
A good, used saw was what I was originally looking, but, the few I checked on, their prices were too high. We only have one dealer here, Stihl. The only used saw they had was a husky 353, that I would've been interested in, but they wanted more for it than I was willing to pay. For just a little more, I can get a brand new one. I'm all for supporting local people, but, frankly, I don't trust these folks. They did a 10 minute job for me and charged me double for it! So, I would be very hesitant to leave a saw with them to be worked on, and be at their discretion as to the actual time it took to complete the job. If I was in their shoes, I would have tried to gain a new customer by, discounting that small job, or else even doing it for free. That's how you establish a good, loyal, customer base. But, that's just me.

Thanks.
 
350.. Awesome!

Hey! If you do a search on my name, you will see I talk alot about the 350. As of yesterday, I now own 2 of them, and am getting ready to order a 346XP. I can tell you, you will love the 350. Husky claims it is the lowest vib saw they make, and I must agree. I have owned several other saws, and for the money, I think this is the best so far. I am in the firewood business, therefore I run 18" bars on all my saws. I think the 350 would have plenty of power for a 20". But I do have one bit of advice for you to think about. I have not owned a 346xp yet. However I do know this... it is perhaps the most talked about saw on this forum, and probably one of the most powerful saws on the planet in its size class. It is the same exact saw as the 350, same weight, same size, same everything. EXCEPT much more power and speed, and a magnesium crankcase instead of plastic. And the good news is, you can get one for just 50.00 more. So it might just be worth saving the extra 50.00 and not wishing you had done so later. But I don't mean to try and talk you into this. Just something to think about. The 350 is one hell of a saw, has never let me down. So good luck in your choice!:)
 
if u goin 300.. put that on the eqipment forum.. then research this site to find those in the know.. most i know here are honest ..jmo.. then get an 036 pro or one of the c9omparable saws new or used from one o these guys.. they gonna protect there rep,,as to being good on there word.. whre as a dealer of unknown qualities or ebay etc.. u cant be real sure..unless u got an good dealer u know.. then investigate my comment anyway. jmo i welcomes u vew.edit,, the 962 efco is a saw id advise u to look at.
 
To run a 20'' bar in hard wood ( with the bar burried or mostly burried) I wouldn't look at less than a 56cc saw, preferrably a little larger but thats me. I would strongly look at a husky 359 or 365 if I were you (or better yet a 357xp if you wanted to spend $500) and planning on doing much cutting. Vibration ratings??? No more than what you are talking about cutting who gives a #%$#? You won't notice the differance anyway! With the antivib technology of today White Finger Disease is a thing of the past, I have never bothered to look at ratings when I purchase a saw. Like Typhoon was saying, the 346xp is an EXCELLENT saw (still a 16'' saw in hardwood, 18'' max in my opinion) I've had mine about a year and a half with no trouble out of it what so ever.
 
I have the 353 w/18" bar and it does well so far. Very smooth. I haven't buried the bar into real hardwoods yet, but buried in red maple, it does pretty well. I got mine online, free shipping for under $320.
 
I have either used or owned all of the saws I recommended to you. If you really want the 20" and your limit is $300.00 I would get the 55r and switch to .325 chain. Otherwise, go with an 18" 350. They are both good saws. The 55 may last longer because of the metal crankcase but on the flip side the 350 is lighter, has a side chain tensioner, and does have a little less vibration. (It is noticeably smoother in the hands.) If you can swing $30 extra bucks or so, get the 353. Then you will have the best of both worlds.

Brent
 
Originally posted by Ryan Willock
To run a 20'' bar in hard wood ( with the bar burried or mostly burried) I wouldn't look at less than a 56cc saw, preferrably a little larger but thats me. I would strongly look at a husky 359 or 365 if I were you (or better yet a 357xp if you wanted to spend $500) and planning on doing much cutting. Vibration ratings??? No more than what you are talking about cutting who gives a #%$#? You won't notice the differance anyway! With the antivib technology of today White Finger Disease is a thing of the past, I have never bothered to look at ratings when I purchase a saw. Like Typhoon was saying, the 346xp is an EXCELLENT saw (still a 16'' saw in hardwood, 18'' max in my opinion) I've had mine about a year and a half with no trouble out of it what so ever.

I'm paying attention to the weight & vib ratings because of low back trouble, artharitis pain in hands, so I need all the help I can get. I want the best of all worlds.
 
time with saw

I am a weekend woodtick, but would mention that the time spent at the woodpile is time away from the lathe. A high quality saw will probably last a lifetime of occasional use. You certainly would want enough power to concentrate on the wood not the chainsaw.:rolleyes:
 
then get an high end husq. 372 xp .. 357or even a 55..
again ill say used ,,but tell the dealers here what u doing they can probably
get something thatll last .. or recommend somebody else in thedealer network..or u gamble like me im always gambling on used saws.. butthats me..
i will say this.. a lot depends on rite cut settup as to no vib smooth.. but my 372.. is so easy a aw to work with because of the smooth operation... i eventhink iteasier really on my back for whole day working.. w 20 inch.or more..
 
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