Tree planted too deep - how to remedy 5 yrs later?

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NebClimber

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I inspected 2 trees (Maple and Pear). Both trees were planted 3 years ago. Both were planted about 4" above the root/trunk junction.

One is throwing up sprouts from its roots.

Why is it growing sprouts. More importantly, what is the remedy - if any - for a tree planted too deep?

Obvious answer seems to be to lower the grade around the entire tree. But how far around the tree? At this point, will I do more harm than good? Some authorities suggest I will do more harm than good b/c the lowered grade will collect water leading to a number of other problems. To complicate matter, the trees are both planted in the lowest area of the yard.

What to do?


Steven
 
I would suggest that you may consider digging and replanting them depending on the size of the tree, do it during the dormant season of course.

or,

lower the grade at the base of the tree creating a water basin of sorts at the base as a by product, sink 4 to 6 - 1" pvc pipe (length about 3 feet, perforated or drilled through at 2 inch intervals along the entire length creating good water drainage and possibly some aeration) sections to their full depth at ground level, leave about 1-2 inches above grade and cap to prevent them filling up with soil and such from above.

just my .02
 
Originally posted by NebClimber
Some authorities suggest I will do more harm than good b/c the lowered grade will collect water leading to a number of other problems.
NOt sure I follow this. Is water-saturated soil less harmful than just water?
I don't know the answer to the problem, tho I see it all the time. I first clear around the base of the tree to prevent girdling. How wide depends on mature size of tree and # of roots to cut. Often this is done in stages to avoid dieback of crown.
The aeration pipes can work, but if they've been in just 3 years, replanting sounds like the best option, if you can get paid for your time. If you could ID the species of maple and pear you'd know more about their flood tolerance, and be better able to figure out what to recommend.
 
Guy:

These trees are planted in what we here in the Midwest call a "draw". A draw is a low spot where water collects and runs. The draw in this case is just a low spot thru this person's yard where water runs thru. It is not much lower than the grade of the yard, but my point was that if I lower the grade around these trees they will be in the lowest part of the lawn - even lower than the draw in which they sit.

Some authorities have suggested: "Digging down to expose the unions and cutting roots causes a depression in the soil which allows water to fill causing Phytophthora crown rot or later in the year, ice formation and subsequent injury to the crown."

So lowering the grade in this case doesn't seem to be a good alternative. Just my best guess. But really I have no clue.

Steven
 
Here in the more eastern part of the midwest we call what you're probably talking about a "swale".  They're commonly created in yards to steer surface water around an object such as a dwelling.  A draw would seem more like a big ditch or small ravine, neither of which would typically get trees planted in them.  Of course, it doesn't make a whole lot of sense that a tree would get planted in a swale, either...  I'm no expert by a longshot, but the relocation sounds like the best advice to me.

Glen
 
You found a newly planted tree that is only 4 inches too deep? That's better than most. Are you sure the "root/trunk junction" you're talking about isn't the graft union? If so, that would make sense, and put the tree at closer to 11 or 12 inches too deep, the normal planting depth.
If replanting is an option, do it, otherwise it's a temporary tree. Another option is to plant a new tree nearby, at the proper depth, and when the first tree dies, it won't be missed as much.
As for dishing out the soil around the tree, this is quite ineffective. After completely explaining the process, and charging quite a bit of money to do it, almost without exception every tree we have dished out was refilled by the homeowner.
 
The pear may be grafted: rootstock determines hardiness, size, upper part makes flowers and fruit. Where the two are joined/spliced/grafted there is a bulge on the stem. The roots are typically a few inches below that. You know what the root flare is; we looked at enough, right?

I like the idea of planting replacement trees nearby. The effort of dishing out or transplanting rarely pays off for anyone; cheaper to just buy a new tree.
 
The pear may be grafted: rootstock determines hardiness, size, upper part makes flowers and fruit. Where the two are joined/spliced/grafted there is a bulge on the stem. The roots are typically a few inches below that. You know what the root flare is; we looked at enough, right? Mike doesn't know that you had such an excellent training experience here in NC. :cool:

I like the idea of planting replacement trees nearby. The effort of dishing out or transplanting rarely pays off for anyone; cheaper to just buy a new tree.
 
Most times - in my adventures - when a tree was planted too deep, the root system did not get large.

So I'd shoot for raising the tree, rather than lowering the surrounding grade.

My choice would be fall - what's another 3 months on 3 years.
 
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