Thread: 288 oiler

i'm rebuilding my 2 288's

with regards to the oilers, there is a small, flat blade driver, screw in the BOTTOM edge that locates in the piston pump...THIS IS NOT THE ADJUSTER

how tight do i do it up and does it require locktite????

serg

There isn't any torque specs on that screw. I've naver had one where I had to use locktite. If they are vibrating out on you, use green or blue locktite.

I just saw your post in the chainsaw forum. If the screw binds the pump piston when you tighten it, the problem is with the oil pump body itself. If you've had the screw out, you'll notice that it is like a pin on the end. The screw is supposed to bottom out before the pin comes in contact with the center of the piston. As long as the pump body isn't stripped, just grind a little off the end of the screw until it bottoms out without binding the piston.

thanks Grande Dog,

i pulled them down today, theres slite differences in these 2 oilers.
ones a 91 year model the other 93, the earlier one (91) has a 2 peice drive gear/seal the 93 is 1 peice. the opening in the bottom where the piston pump gear protrudes is slightly longer on the 91 model. other than that there the same as far as i can tell......

ok so how freely should the piston pump turn???? when the little grub screw is removed it turns ok, does not spin (still resistance there because of the spring pressure i guess)
but on both they are restricted, maybe 40% more when the grub screw is tightened. but they can still be rotated with my thumb nail, though they do spring back a little.

what is the perpose of this grub screw??

also i noticed on the same bottom edge of the oiler, at the end where it sits on the rubber pick up line from the oil tank, a small siver ball in the oiler body, like a grease point. what is this and should it be able to be depressed or what????


serg

ps Grande Dog, i have been in email contact with Casey from your store and am waiting on a quote for husky parts, bar, chain and a few other items... i would like to know how its going

cheers, serg

The little ball in the bottom is just a manufacturing plug. After they machine that passage, they just press a ball in there to seal it off. They do have a fair amount of resistance. As you realize, besides rotating, the piston moves laterally also. The screw takes the constant pressure of of the adjuster screw.

Originally Posted by uninformed

thanks Grande Dog,

i pulled them down today, theres slite differences in these 2 oilers.
ones a 91 year model the other 93, the earlier one (91) has a 2 peice drive gear/seal the 93 is 1 peice. the opening in the bottom where the piston pump gear protrudes is slightly longer on the 91 model. other than that there the same as far as i can tell......

?Were you able to determine if the oiler sets were interchangeable or not?
I have an older 281xp with that same multiple piece oiler drive set and am trying to figure out if I can just use the newer 'single piece' set in it as it is cheap and easy for me to get. The older set seems more prone to failure and is special order for me. From the diagrams it seems like there is no reason why these parts shouldn't fit in the older oiler housing assembly...?
Thanks to anyone who knows about this and might have switched to the single unit drive/worm gear.

Howdy,
Here's the service bulletin on the issue. It looks like if you change the pump the drive gear need to be changed also.
Regards
Gregg

Ok so looks like you can't interchange these parts from before to after 1993 model year without replacing the whole entire oiler set, housing and all.
Except for the newer pump piston portion being backward compatible only.
What a definitive bulletin, thanks for that Grande Dog.

I finally got all my parts together for the oiler on my 1988 281xp.
Cost about $40 for three tiny scraps of plastic and metal including the plastic worm gear. Their mark up must be 150000% ! I didn't buy the v-ring seal either.
Anyway I was a bit surprised how flimsy this setup is. The later one that came out a few years later that is one single unit and costs $12 and fits on a bunch of saws is obviously way better in many ways.
This system I am working on now seems soo unlikely and under-designed that I am wondering if there is something I am doing wrong.
What I am wondering is how much oil pressure builds up in the worm gear portion of the oiler? What I mean is how much oil should leak past the plunger part of the system into the worm gear portion. Because I do not see how the way I have this set up is going to keep oil from just leaking out there. The bar oil is suposed to lube the worm gear as well right? If there is a poor seal between the crank shaft and the body of the oiler, the oil will just leak out the bottom of the saw and I think even into the clutch assembly through the needle bearing.
So.... does anyone have good experiance with the older 3 part seal system on the pree 93 280 288 etc saws. How did that seal set up work for you? Did you just end up replacing the entire oiler for the newer setup?