There were a few things that slowed this down that I only found out after the fact.
The repair shop had been sold, but the new owner couldn't make a go of it so the old owner took it back, that was about the time my saw was taken there.
It took a while for them to get the shop up and running again, it was in that time period the paper work on my saw was submitted by the shop to Ryobi. There was a mistake on the paper work that was submitted to Ryobi, but it had to do with the shop being reimbursed, not a problem with them approving the replacement saw. Ryobi thought the shop was going resubmit the corrected paperwork and the shop thought Ryobi was sending me the saw, so they were both waiting for the other party to do something.
When I talked with Ryobi this time they reviewed all the paperwork, found that everything was in place other than reimbursing the repair shop, so they said they would bypass the shop and send me the saw without further delay.
If that happens by next Tuesday (they said I should have the saw by then) then Ryobi will have lived up to their end of the deal.
It looks like if the shop had not been in such a state of confusion at the time the paperwork was submitted and it had been done correctly, it would have only been about two weeks until a new saw was in my hands. One week for the shop to tear the saw apart and file the paper work and one week for the saw to be shipped.
My local Stihl dealer went out of business during this time period, can't say I liked that shop much, I guess others felt the same way.






































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I figured there was not much sense in running it stock if I could do the muff mod and the intake mod right off the bat. Sigh. No such luck! The carb screws defeated my best efforts to get at them! There is NO way a hemostat could grab what look like caps over the screws. I couldn't even get my surgical tweezers on 'em! The carb was "Made in China" (although the sticker on the saw says "Made in Japan". ZAMA. The "plugs" are made of alloy and are retained by small brass balls that fit into a small recess cast into the plug. There is a hole in the center and it appears that the adjustment screw itself is hidden back behind all of this. Is this what a DD driver fits? I've never seen one, so help me out here.
They seemed to put metal in the right places and plastic in the rest of the saw for light weight.

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