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Thread: MS 441 Vacuum testing procedure

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    MS 441 Vacuum testing procedure

    Put a new piston and jug put on my 441 due to a scorred cylinder from running it lean(previous owner). Want to do a vacuum test to be sure seals aren't leaking. What is the best(easiest) way to block off carb? Do I need to fully remove white plastic cover to block the two carb opennings? I'm much more familair with old Poulan 3400's etc where its easy to get to back of carb. The 441 seems to provide much more of a challenge and I don't want to start saw w/o being sure there are no leaks. Any help would be appreciated. Bob

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    STEVEGODSEYJR's Avatar
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    I don't remember who it is on here but someone here has a link on their sig. called Vacum Testing For Dummies.
    Steve Godsey

    441 muffler modded
    064 ported and muffler modded

    a few yellow and a few red ones also

    A awesome quote from randy Mac "you meet God when you go forth with seven cubes... "

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    blsnelling's Avatar
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    Put a piece of inner tube behind the carb and tighten it back down. Do the same thing behind the muffler. I prefer to use a piece of 1/4" steel as a block-off plate rather than use the muffler. It's just easier.
    Brad - Snellerized Saws

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    Quote Originally Posted by redunshee View Post
    Put a new piston and jug put on my 441 due to a scorred cylinder from running it lean(previous owner). Want to do a vacuum test to be sure seals aren't leaking. What is the best(easiest) way to block off carb? Do I need to fully remove white plastic cover to block the two carb opennings? I'm much more familair with old Poulan 3400's etc where its easy to get to back of carb. The 441 seems to provide much more of a challenge and I don't want to start saw w/o being sure there are no leaks. Any help would be appreciated. Bob
    Thick rubber behind the muffler. Piece of steel (with holes matching the mounting bolts) flush against carb boot. Use spacers on bolts stems and the carb nuts to tighten it down. That leaves the impulse connection free to test through. I'm guessing with Brads method, you test through the spark plug hole, but I'm not set up to do that.

    One thread somewhere mentioned that Stihl muffler and carb spacers work well to hold rubber in place.
    Last edited by litefoot; 06-03-2009 at 08:25 AM.
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    blsnelling's Avatar
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    I take it you don't have a seperate impulse hose on the 441? I put the spark splug in and use the impulse hose.
    Brad - Snellerized Saws

    Have a 201T that doesn't run like you expected? Need a new one that's already modded and ready to go? PM me for details.

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    Howdy,
    It's a strato so you have to block the free air port also.
    Regards
    Gregg

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    Quote Originally Posted by blsnelling View Post
    I take it you don't have a seperate impulse hose on the 441? I put the spark splug in and use the impulse hose.
    I believe it has an impulse line and fuel line that both mount to carb. If I block off carb and test thru sparkplug hole will impulse line cause a leak? Should I pull impulse line from carb and test thru it? I say its an impulse line because I don't know what else to call it.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Grande Dog View Post
    Howdy,
    It's a strato so you have to block the free air port also.
    Regards
    Gregg
    Are you saying that what I think is the impulse line is free air port? Thanks.
    Bob

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    Howdy,
    I was referring to the two ports below the intake port. Here's a picture of the Stihl test flange. You can see that it covers the the lower ports also.
    Regards
    Gregg
    Attached Images Attached Images

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    Quote Originally Posted by Grande Dog View Post
    Howdy,
    I was referring to the two ports below the intake port. Here's a picture of the Stihl test flange. You can see that it covers the the lower ports also.
    Regards
    Gregg
    Thanks. What I did was tear saw apart to the cylinder and made a metal plate to block intake ports. Backed it up with rubber and will likely test thru impulse line with piston at TDC. Did same to exhaust side. Think it should work. Thanks for everyones input. This has been a real test as its much more complicated then my old Poulan Countervibes. Bob

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    Quote Originally Posted by blsnelling View Post
    Put a piece of inner tube behind the carb and tighten it back down. Do the same thing behind the muffler. I prefer to use a piece of 1/4" steel as a block-off plate rather than use the muffler. It's just easier.
    Did a pressure and vacuum test and had air leaking out spark plug hole(plug in) and comp. release button. Compression release I suppose I could use some hi temp sealant but I worried about tightening spark plug any tighter. Its socked down pretty good. Anyone have such an issue?

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    Quote Originally Posted by redunshee View Post
    Did a pressure and vacuum test and had air leaking out spark plug hole(plug in) and comp. release button. Compression release I suppose I could use some hi temp sealant but I worried about tightening spark plug any tighter. Its socked down pretty good. Anyone have such an issue?
    You can leave the decomp in for pressure testing, but you should replace it with a plug for vacuum testing.
    "Work works where wishy washy wishing won't" -Neal A. Maxwell

    Quote Originally Posted by SawTroll View Post
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