Thread: MS660 32" or 36" bar?

i normally run a 20" on my 066 but every now and then i will take the 36" bar off the 880 and make the little girl work a bit harder.

Here is a couple of pics of a 36" bar on a MS660. Size your bar by the timber you are cutting, not by how it looks.

I'm in PA, so there aren't too many trees I come across that a 25" bar can't handle. Saws are a hobby for me, so getting a bigger bar isn't out of necessity. As far a how it looks, I guess I should have qualified that statement. I'm more concerned about how much "longer" a 36" bar is compared to a 32" bar. 4 inches doesn't seem like much, but I know it can feel like a mile. Thanks everyone for the pictures, it helps but the bar sizes in perspective for me. I think I'm going to go with the 36" bar and full comp RSC. I was hoping to get it with 11 instead of 13 nose sprocket teeth. Any input on what gauge? I'm currently running 0.050" gauge. I'd like to stay with a 3/8" pitch since that is how both my saws are set up right now. Also, my 660 has the 3/4" wrap handle and larger clutch cover. How to I determine if it has the high output oiler?

Thanks everyone for all the advice!

Tzed great pics...now when you gonna put that big ole bar in some wood?

Originally Posted by jsd176

I'm in PA, so there aren't too many trees I come across that a 25" bar can't handle. Saws are a hobby for me, so getting a bigger bar isn't out of necessity. As far a how it looks, I guess I should have qualified that statement. I'm more concerned about how much "longer" a 36" bar is compared to a 32" bar. 4 inches doesn't seem like much, but I know it can feel like a mile. Thanks everyone for the pictures, it helps but the bar sizes in perspective for me. I think I'm going to go with the 36" bar and full comp RSC. I was hoping to get it with 11 instead of 13 nose sprocket teeth. Any input on what gauge? I'm currently running 0.050" gauge. I'd like to stay with a 3/8" pitch since that is how both my saws are set up right now. Also, my 660 has the 3/4" wrap handle and larger clutch cover. How to I determine if it has the high output oiler?

Thanks everyone for all the advice!

There should be a number on the oiler, but maybe not the whole part number. Did the saw come with the 3/4 wrap? If it did it may have it then. Otherwise take a look at the oiler and compare it to a known oiler and see if theres any difference.

36" runs great on them .......

36"er



32" er milling duty

Originally Posted by jsd176

I'm in PA, so there aren't too many trees I come across that a 25" bar can't handle. Saws are a hobby for me, so getting a bigger bar isn't out of necessity. As far a how it looks, I guess I should have qualified that statement. I'm more concerned about how much "longer" a 36" bar is compared to a 32" bar. 4 inches doesn't seem like much, but I know it can feel like a mile. Thanks everyone for the pictures, it helps but the bar sizes in perspective for me. I think I'm going to go with the 36" bar and full comp RSC. I was hoping to get it with 11 instead of 13 nose sprocket teeth. Any input on what gauge? I'm currently running 0.050" gauge. I'd like to stay with a 3/8" pitch since that is how both my saws are set up right now. Also, my 660 has the 3/4" wrap handle and larger clutch cover. How to I determine if it has the high output oiler?

Thanks everyone for all the advice!

Going from a 24" bar (really a 25" bar) to a 28" bar (really a 27" bar) feels quite a bit different. To me a 28" bar feels much better on a 460 or a 371/372.Stepping a to a 22' bar from a 20" bar doesn't feel like anything has been added to the saw (MS441). Jumping from a 32" to a 36" bar, for me, means I need the longer bar for reach. Balance means nothing to me. It sounds like a 32" bar would suit your needs and add the hot rod looks you want. BTW the Oregon light weight bars are the bees knees.

And another 36" bar shot.

Originally Posted by bowtechmadman

Tzed great pics...now when you gonna put that big ole bar in some wood?

A guy at work keeps talking about a 6' dbh Oak on his farm that is dying, so maybe soon...


.

this is alittle perspective. thats 25" bar on the 044 behind the 32" on the 372

I'm looking at buying a 32"-36" bar for my 660. After reading this i'm leaning toward the 36". I have a lot of big ass oaks that need a big bar.

Should i get a full skip?

http://www.baileysonline.com/itemdet...PM%2032%20SS50

http://www.baileysonline.com/itemdet...=OR375%2072LGX

http://www.baileysonline.com/itemdet...=OR375%2072JGX

Not sure what chain... maybe both? felling/bore cutting...

don't see a 36" with .50guage?

Originally Posted by matt9923

I'm looking at buying a 32"-36" bar for my 660. After reading this i'm leaning toward the 36". I have a lot of big ass oaks that need a big bar.

Should i get a full skip?

http://www.baileysonline.com/itemdet...PM%2032%20SS50

http://www.baileysonline.com/itemdet...=OR375%2072LGX

http://www.baileysonline.com/itemdet...=OR375%2072JGX

Not sure what chain... maybe both? felling/bore cutting...

don't see a 36" with .50guage?

Standard gauge over 32" is 063 thats why all my bars are 063.

Originally Posted by Cedarkerf

Standard gauge over 32" is 063 thats why all my bars are 063.

I'm looking at a bar on eBay with 2 chains. I'm going to call my dealer for a quote tomorrow.
Or ill go with the Oregon, what's the difference between .50 and .63? same sharpening wheel and sprocket rim.

The thickness of the drive teeth/width of bar groove same sprockets although if your sprocket is well worn from 050 it wouldnt hurt to put a new 3 dollar sprocket on.Same sharpening.