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Thread: How to Video: Crank seal replacment, Pressure testing, Vacuum testing

  1. #16
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    weimedog's Avatar
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    Good educational stuff..thanks!

    So where do you find a puller for those small seals?
    Saw on the Tractor:

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    Brad, these posts are prime examples of why I hang around this forum, Well these, and a certain level of what Aussies call "piss taking"

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    Great video. Thanks for taking the time to make it and post it. I learned a ton on vacuum/pressure testing the last couple days. Now I can't wait to try it on a temper-mental saw of mine.
    - ED -

    Always looking for P50 and larger Pioneers and Poulan 655's... cash or trades.

  4. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by weimedog View Post
    Good educational stuff..thanks!

    So where do you find a puller for those small seals?
    At your local Stihl dealer. The one Brad was using is the standard seal puller sold by Stihl. It list for around 150.00. Comes with extra jaws to do most any seal.

    Every once in awhile you can find those pullers on E-bay for a few bucks.

  5. #20
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    logging22's Avatar
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    Thanx for the info. I believe i may be needing one in the future.
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  6. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by logging22 View Post
    Thanx for the info. I believe i may be needing one in the future.
    If your a do it your selfer its almost impossible to repair a saw right without pressure and vac testing. As Brad said, he fooled with that saw for quite awhile switching carbs and such. He found the problem instantly with the pressure/vac tests. If a seal is found like the one he found that puller comes in very handy. Seals can be removed with tools as a simple screwdriver but care must be taken not to dent or damage the housing, damage the seal area of the case will result in the new seal leaking. Using the proper puller takes care of those issues altogether...

  7. #22
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    Thanks guys. I'm a DIY kind of guy. Yes, you can, and I did, get by without the proper puller for a long time. When I started getting into more saw work, it became apparent I needed these pullers. Yes they're pricey, VERY pricey. But you can see just how well they work.

    Why did I wait so long to pressure test? I had some actual carb problems I was working on and just thought the fast idle was part of it. So I chased that tail first. It would have been quicker and easier in the long run to have just pressure tested it to begin with. But, I was not "rebuilding" this saw, just doing some mods for a friend, Nik. When I rebuild a saw, the seals come out automatically and are replaced. It's not worth trying to get around replacing them.

    Anyway, I just thought I'd share what you can do in your garage with just a few tools. You can get by without the puller for a few saws, and the rest of the tools aren't that expensive.

    Also, pressure and vaccum testing can have this auro around it that it's some difficult task requiring expensive and highly specialized tools. As you can see, it doesn't.

    Go for it guys. Get them saws runnin' right and have some fun cutting wood this fall!
    Brad - Snellerized Saws

    Have a 201T that doesn't run like you expected? Need a new one that's already modded and ready to go? PM me for details.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Erick View Post
    Brad you really gotta pick up a couple of test flanges.
    When you don't work in a shop, you sometimes don't know what you're missing. I guess I need to go do some shopping in my Stihl specialty tool catalog
    Brad - Snellerized Saws

    Have a 201T that doesn't run like you expected? Need a new one that's already modded and ready to go? PM me for details.

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    Hey Brad ( or Tommy ),

    how do you know how far to press in the new seal and what are you measuring with ?

    thanks, and thanks for posting the vids !
    Angelo
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    Brad,
    Thanks for taking the time to film and edit that. A picture's worth a thousand words. Keep it up!
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  11. #26
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    Stand up job!! Brad.
    This is what makes this site rock!
    You should be marketing those vids as a series! seriously.
    Saws

    More than I need,Less than I want!


    "figures don't lie, but liars figure"

  12. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by angelo c View Post
    Hey Brad ( or Tommy ),

    how do you know how far to press in the new seal and what are you measuring with ?

    thanks, and thanks for posting the vids !
    Angelo
    No measurement needed. Just drive the seal slightly below the case edge and your go to go. Driving it in too deep , like into the bearing is a no no...

  13. #28
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    Not taking anything away from your video or how to, but I have found that you should rotate the crankshaft while pressure and vac testing...I have had one saw that would hold vacuum until you rotated the crank...Drove me nuts until I figured it out...But like the other have said great tutorial...
    Sean...

    Just here for the REP....

  14. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by blsnelling View Post
    When you don't work in a shop, you sometimes don't know what you're missing. I guess I need to go do some shopping in my Stihl specialty tool catalog
    Looks like you got it down pretty good without them. They come in nice but the way your doing it works and thats the main thing...

  15. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by angelo c View Post
    Hey Brad ( or Tommy ),

    how do you know how far to press in the new seal and what are you measuring with ?

    thanks, and thanks for posting the vids !
    Angelo
    The correct Stihl tool seats them to the correct depth for you, and keeps them nice and square. I don't have all those tools. It's as simple as taking note of the depth of the original and/or just making sure it's lower than what the flywheel will hit. You also have to make sure that you don't push the seal in too far such that the inner bearing race rubs on the inside of the seal. And do make sure to always lube the seal ID.
    Brad - Snellerized Saws

    Have a 201T that doesn't run like you expected? Need a new one that's already modded and ready to go? PM me for details.

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