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Thread: How to Video: Crank seal replacment, Pressure testing, Vacuum testing

  1. 10-24-2009, 05:00 AM #46
    wigglesworth
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tzed250 View Post
    Brad, when I install any kind of seal, I will put clear platic, Saran Wrap, etc. around the shaft and over any sharp edges the seal will pass by. One microscopic nick and the seal is done.

    Great Videos!!!


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    I bet that saran wrap works good....... Thanks. Brad, awesome thread. Makes me want to get a saw with bad seals......does that make sense??? LOL
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  2. 10-24-2009, 05:28 AM #47
    Scandy14
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    Thanks for sharing, good stuff!
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  3. 10-24-2009, 06:03 AM #48
    bitzer
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    Very cool vid and info Brad! Its great how you share your knowledge of the saw so freely. Your savin a lotta guys a lotta trouble and money. Your gonna have to start billing us for this stuff soon! Thanks again man!
    90% of what I say is bs. The rest is the rest.
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  4. 10-24-2009, 03:03 PM #49
    FATGUY
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    Quote Originally Posted by blsnelling View Post
    The last couple days I've been working on another finicky 026. I couldn't get the idle speed down to where the chain would stop spinning. I knew I had some carbuartion issues, so just assumed that's what it was. Long story short, I finally found it had a crank seal leaking BADLY. I grabbed the video camera to show Nik what I had found on his saw. While I was at it, I thought I'd go ahead and do a little video tutorial of sorts on how to pull and replace the seal, and pressure and vaccum test the saw. BTW, the flywheel side seal on a 026 is one of the most difficult to remove. Because it is so small, it's very difficult to get anything other than the proper tool in there for removal. Enjoy.

    Finding the culprit.




    Fixing the problem.

    thanks Brad
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  5. 10-24-2009, 03:10 PM #50
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    Very nice!

    This is wny I spend 99% of my time here reading... and only 1% posting.

    Great stuff!
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  6. 10-24-2009, 04:46 PM #51
    blsnelling
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    I found it interesting that my 260 had a bad flywheel side seal too. That was a couple years ago though. Just like Niks, the clutch side was fine. I believe Niks leak was worse though. I'm surprised we didn't smoke this saw running it the other night.
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  7. 10-24-2009, 05:18 PM #52
    jbighump
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    thanks for the clear instructions on pressure testing, i have a finiky 026 that dont like to come down to idle i will likely test it after i rebuild the carb tomorrow. have been sick for 3 days and have alot of catching up to do ill post my findings thanks
    saws...yea i got em


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  8. 10-24-2009, 05:37 PM #53
    Andyshine77
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    Quote Originally Posted by blsnelling View Post
    I'm surprised we didn't smoke this saw running it the other night.
    We were real lucky, I ran the thing for 10+ minutes. It honestly didn't act like it had that bad of an air leak, it wasn't idling that well, but the top end seemed fine.
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  9. 10-24-2009, 06:13 PM #54
    cjnspecial
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    Where can one get a puller like that and how much do they run? I could use a puller like that many, many times in the last few years.
    Way too many saws.
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  10. 10-24-2009, 07:10 PM #55
    shawn022
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    Quote Originally Posted by cjnspecial View Post
    Where can one get a puller like that and how much do they run? I could use a puller like that many, many times in the last few years.
    One just sold on Ebay the other day. $170 or something. See Thalls post earlier. Some dealers won't sell tools though.
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  11. 10-25-2009, 08:16 PM #56
    TxAggie
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    Cheap seal puller?

    Anyone looked at one of the Harbor Freight Seal Pullers? At $19.99, this seems to be a little more in my budget. I've been using a old screwdriver with a notch, but I'd like to find something a little bit more consistent.
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  12. 10-25-2009, 08:27 PM #57
    Bowtie
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    Quote Originally Posted by blsnelling View Post
    The 064 is one that comes to mind as being a little different than some. The flywheel side seal on that model has to be seated significantly deaper than normal due to stub on the flywheel sticking out farther.
    It depends on the 064. Some are deep set seals, newer ones werent...
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  13. 10-28-2009, 05:52 PM #58
    buzz sawyer
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    The older saws I've seen have double lip crank seals or two seals back to back - one lip in and one lip out. I figured this was to seal from both directions since you have pressure and vacuum at different points in the cycle. Is it conceivable that you could have a pressure leak that may not show up as a vac leak and vice-versa?
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  14. 10-28-2009, 09:37 PM #59
    Mr. Firewood
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    Wont run with R50 mix but runs fine with Stihl Ultra mix :scratching head:

    I seen them vids on there and I always wondered how much of a job it was to change them out, I have a 046 that needs them bad and has been sitting because of it for about 6 years
    Last edited by Mr. Firewood; 10-28-2009 at 09:41 PM.

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  15. 10-29-2009, 04:37 AM #60
    redunshee
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    !

    Quote Originally Posted by TxAggie View Post
    Anyone looked at one of the Harbor Freight Seal Pullers? At $19.99, this seems to be a little more in my budget. I've been using a old screwdriver with a notch, but I'd like to find something a little bit more consistent.
    Saw it and wonder if it would work? For $20.00 may pick one up and see. I've pi#$ed away more money than this on parts, etc.
    Bob
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