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Thread: Chainsaw carb rebuilds

  1. 12-03-2009, 10:19 AM #1
    smokim
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    Chainsaw carb rebuilds

    I've rebuilt a bunch of chain saw carbs in the past few years. When diaphrams don't fix'em, I soak it in kerosene, boil it in water, blow it out, spray it with carb cleaner but 90% of the time none of this helps. I end up replacing the carb. Can some one help me to be more successful in rebuilding carbs? Thanks in advance. Appreciate Ya.
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  2. 12-03-2009, 10:37 AM #2
    blsnelling
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    Ultrasonic cleaner. tom trees
    Last edited by blsnelling; 12-03-2009 at 12:20 PM.
    Brad - Snellerized Saws

    Have a 201T that doesn't run like you expected? Need a new one that's already modded and ready to go? PM me for details.
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  3. 12-03-2009, 11:30 AM #3
    ms290
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    chem dip carb cleaner. $25 a gallon but for something that can be used again and again its well worth it. i use the stuff for everything from cleaning parts to cleaning guns. its really a multi-purpose fluid if you ask me
    I don't suffer from CAD. I enjoy every minute of that nasty disease.

    Looking to start a small enginge shop and in need of parts distributors. Any and all are welcome if you have contacts.

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  4. 12-03-2009, 11:44 AM #4
    bullseye13
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    Dont forget to get the proper W and Z inlet lever tools for the respective carbs. You can clean them but if the inlet lever is out of wack it still wont run good.

    Oh, and dont put a wire through the hi-speed check valve.
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  5. 12-03-2009, 11:45 AM #5
    striperswaper
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    welch plugs?
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  6. 12-03-2009, 12:10 PM #6
    stinkbait
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    I have always had good luck with carb cleaner and compressed air.
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  7. 12-03-2009, 12:11 PM #7
    blsnelling
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    Quote Originally Posted by stinkbait View Post
    I have always had good luck with carb cleaner and compressed air.
    Just not too much pressure, or you can ruin check valves in some carbs.
    Brad - Snellerized Saws

    Have a 201T that doesn't run like you expected? Need a new one that's already modded and ready to go? PM me for details.
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  8. 12-03-2009, 12:18 PM #8
    stinkbait
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    Quote Originally Posted by blsnelling View Post
    Just not too much pressure, or you can ruin check valves in some carbs.
    I haven't run into that yet. About all that I have rebuilt is some Tillotson HLs and HS carbs, and the Walbro SDC, and Zama's copy of those two. I haven't really messed with anything new with plastic checkvalves and such.
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  9. 12-03-2009, 12:50 PM #9
    hotshot
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    Do you normally pressure decay test the inlet needle for proper sealing, and then check for the correct range of pop-off & reseat pressures?

    Are you flow testing the check valved style of main nozzles for proper sealing
    when in vacuum (idling)?

    These two steps have really tripped me up in the past when I tried to skip them in .... post rebuild tests are important.
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  10. 12-03-2009, 04:04 PM #10
    Fish
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    For the most part, folks just slap in the new diaphram kit and call it a
    rebuild......

    The may have that pesky little needle and lever in their kit, but decide it is easier just to leave it be.

    The needle,lever,spring needs to be removed, and that passage blown out,
    and held up to a light to visually verify that the passage is open up to the screen.

    Doing this will dramatically increase your carb "rebuild" success......

    But most people just ignore me, so...........
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  11. 12-03-2009, 05:25 PM #11
    redunshee
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    No Fish your'e exactly right. You're much better off replacing the metering lever and needle, after being sure the inlet passage is open. Also be sure you have the correct metering lever height for your brand of carb.
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  12. 12-03-2009, 05:47 PM #12
    buzz sawyer
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    Quote Originally Posted by redunshee View Post
    No Fish your'e exactly right. You're much better off replacing the metering lever and needle, after being sure the inlet passage is open. Also be sure you have the correct metering lever height for your brand of carb.
    Ditto on that. I thought I could re-use the needle on my 1050 Tilly HL but found it would stick to the seat after setting a couples weeks and I had to prime to start. New needle and seat - no more problem.
    The original Buzz Sawyer.

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  13. 12-03-2009, 05:51 PM #13
    Trigger Man
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fish View Post
    For the most part, folks just slap in the new diaphram kit and call it a
    rebuild......

    The may have that pesky little needle and lever in their kit, but decide it is easier just to leave it be.

    The needle,lever,spring needs to be removed, and that passage blown out,
    and held up to a light to visually verify that the passage is open up to the screen.

    Doing this will dramatically increase your carb "rebuild" success......

    But most people just ignore me, so...........


    I would'nt call it a rebuild unless you change the needle and lever, thats just stupid!
    Saws

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  14. 12-03-2009, 05:54 PM #14
    Thorcw
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    Buzz were are you getting you HL parts from im having a hard time on a HL 11 A
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