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Thread: Husqvarna 575xp chain break and s.p. threads

  1. 12-05-2009, 03:56 PM #1
    SheetRock Bob
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    Husqvarna 575xp chain break and s.p. threads

    I just drove 100 miles to look at a "like new barley used" 575xp saw.

    When I got their the chain break was broke and it wouldnt start.
    I took the cover off and noticed the spark plug threads were striped out.
    I was a little upset I drove that far to see a damaged saw. Well I talked him down from 400 to 340. Its funny how people are about the truth these days.
    I ran for a few seconds so I did hear it start and run.

    My question is.
    How much money are we looking at for repairs?
    Tune-up, heli-coil, plastic chain break, etc.
    Im thinking around $120ish

    This is my first post. Im excited to finally have a pro husky saw. Im going to use it to cut firewood for resell.

    Bob

    Husqvarna 575xp
    Stihl 017
    McCulloch Timber Bear
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  2. 12-05-2009, 04:56 PM #2
    mikefunaro
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    When you say the chain break was broken, do you mean that it no longer engages, that the hand guard was broken, that the mechanism was broken, that the brake band is worn...what's going on with it?

    Also, when you say the spark plug threads are stripped out...do they still work? is there a compression issue which is preventing it from running? Did the guy have an explanation for why it was not running?

    Future rule of CL, especially for trips >30 minutes, try to feel them out on the phone and get specific. I won't deal with someone who is incapable of getting very specific if the drive is far. If they're close by then fine, but the problem is that after I've driven a long time I'm more likely to feel that I HAVE to come back with something, so I avoid this whenever possible. IN this case these are things which you wouldn't have noticed in the photo, so I cannot really fault you on that.
    Saws: Husky 346xpg NE, 550 xpg, 372xp, 576xp, 3120xp; Jonsered 670, Stihl MS 211, Stihl 064 [project] (coil/ignition needed)

    Other 2stroke OPE: Stihl FS 450, Stihl Km-90 (string trimmer, paddle broom, pole saw, hedge trimmer), Stihl TS 420 (cut quick), Stihl BG 85, Echo SRM 230, Redmax EBZ 7500, Husky 325HS75X
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  3. 12-05-2009, 05:14 PM #3
    GASoline71
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    I wouldn't have given that much for a saw that had been abused like that.

    If the threads are stripped bad enough... you could be lookin' at a new cylinder... new cylinder = $$$$$$$

    Gary
    Last edited by GASoline71; 12-05-2009 at 08:50 PM.
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    LMAO...
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  4. 12-05-2009, 05:15 PM #4
    mikefunaro
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    I'm hoping he meant that the threads on the actual spark plug were thrashed and not those on the spark plug receiving end...but I'd guess they generally go hand in hand?
    Saws: Husky 346xpg NE, 550 xpg, 372xp, 576xp, 3120xp; Jonsered 670, Stihl MS 211, Stihl 064 [project] (coil/ignition needed)

    Other 2stroke OPE: Stihl FS 450, Stihl Km-90 (string trimmer, paddle broom, pole saw, hedge trimmer), Stihl TS 420 (cut quick), Stihl BG 85, Echo SRM 230, Redmax EBZ 7500, Husky 325HS75X
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  5. 12-05-2009, 05:15 PM #5
    mikefunaro
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    [get rid of 666 post] post
    Saws: Husky 346xpg NE, 550 xpg, 372xp, 576xp, 3120xp; Jonsered 670, Stihl MS 211, Stihl 064 [project] (coil/ignition needed)

    Other 2stroke OPE: Stihl FS 450, Stihl Km-90 (string trimmer, paddle broom, pole saw, hedge trimmer), Stihl TS 420 (cut quick), Stihl BG 85, Echo SRM 230, Redmax EBZ 7500, Husky 325HS75X
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  6. 12-05-2009, 05:17 PM #6
    GASoline71
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    WTF?

    Gary
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    LMAO...
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  7. 12-05-2009, 08:41 PM #7
    SheetRock Bob
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    Wow! I cant believe all the responses to my saw issues.
    Thanks everyone for caring.

    The hand guard is broken off at the chain side.

    We tried to start the saw and I wondered why it sounded weird. The spark plug was hanging out. So we put it back in and it started right up. I only ran it for a few seconds. However, the threads in the cylinder were stripped. I figure a Helicoil Job should do.

    I'm thinking about taking it to my local Husky shop and letting them look it over, and do all the work and tuning.
    I have little experience fixing chain saws. Im pretty good at fixing things but, I would like to let some one who does it every day do it. That is, unless there are some people on this site that think they could walk me through it correctly.

    If anyone would like to see some pictures I can post some soon. I hope I answered some questions.
    Bob
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  8. 12-05-2009, 08:59 PM #8
    thechainsawguy
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    A heli coil job should fix that. Then a new chain brake lever handle. It should not be to much to fix it, as long as that is all that is wrong. As long as you get it running and that is all that is wrong, then not a bad price. But whenever work needs to be done, it should be done to a parts saw price. Just to be safe.
    Get a pro to do the heli coil. Dave.
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  9. 12-06-2009, 06:51 AM #9
    Modifiedmark
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    I agree to get a pro to do the spark plug hole repair unless you are set up to do it yourself.

    I would also think it might be best to pull the jug to do it.

    The chainbrake handle is a easy repair.

    If everything else is ok on the saw you should be alright, there not cheap new now a days.

    BTW I really like my 575XP, its a very strong running saw.
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  10. 12-08-2009, 09:48 AM #10
    SheetRock Bob
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    Update 12-8-09

    I took my 575xp to the local husky/stihl shop.
    $25 heli coil job
    $40 for hand guard

    I told them to put a new chain on it too.
    Hopefully everything will work out and no new problems.

    I didnt take any pictures. I will post some when I get it back.
    in 2 weeks.
    Bob
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  11. 12-10-2011, 10:14 AM #11
    SheetRock Bob
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    Update 12-10-11

    The helicoil didn't work. they didnt pull the jug to do it and got metal in the cylinder. It worked for a while but would get hot and wouldn't start back up.
    I ended up buying a $100 piston and cylinder of eBay and put it on my self. I was nervous at first, but it really wasn't that bad a job.

    2 years later and it still runs/cuts good.
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  12. 12-10-2011, 12:02 PM #12
    Log Hogger
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    WTF? Not removing the cylinder to drill and tap it? That dealer should pay for a new cylinder and piston. Sounds to me like they did it on purpose to pump more money out of you.

    If metal shavings ruined the piston and cylinder, there's a good chance they've buggered the bearings as well. At least be sure to douche the crankcase well.
    "It is very easy to be blinded to the essential uselessness of [their products] by the sense of achievement you get from getting them to work at all. In other words - and this is the rock solid principle on which the whole of the Corporation's Galaxy-wide success is founded - their fundamental design flaws are completely hidden by their superficial design flaws." -Douglas Adams, "So Long, and Thanks For All The Fish"
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  13. 12-10-2011, 01:28 PM #13
    SheetRock Bob
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    Quote Originally Posted by Log Hogger View Post
    WTF? Not removing the cylinder to drill and tap it? That dealer should pay for a new cylinder and piston. Sounds to me like they did it on purpose to pump more money out of you.

    If metal shavings ruined the piston and cylinder, there's a good chance they've buggered the bearings as well. At least be sure to douche the crankcase well.
    Tell me about it. If I knew that I would have done it my self. I took it back and raised hell about it, and all he could offer was $50 off the repairs to fix it. They were a Stihl rep so maybe they have a thing against Huskys.

    Ive ran a few tanks of fuel through it sense then. Do you think I should still douche the crank case? If so, Whats the best way to do that? Pull the Jug back off, and use Kerosene?
    I don't think there was a lot off shavings, just a small speck that scared the cylinder wall.

    Thanks Bob
    Husqvarna 575xp, 55, 36
    Stihl 017, BG86c
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    Dont Learn the Hard Way! Always wear your SAFETY GLASSES!
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