Thread: Dumb 064 tank vent ?

Is this the right 064 tank vent ?



If I have more then 1/4 tank of gas and I tighten the fuel cap gas pours out the vent.....

I had it at the dealer and he took off the orange nipple and it was hollow like a funnel..He said see there you need this line with the inserts in it..Was he right????

Yup the plug is out too..Got it running and the chain will not stop so I took off the clutch..I will try and get new springs tomorrow...

Thanks!!!!!

You're probably missing the one-way check valve that goes in the tank...

Part # 1110 353 1600...

Thanks for the reply!!!!

I know it is not there...I will have to see if I can get one tomorrow...

The man at the dealer told me that only the newer style had them in it and that was why I had to run the tube with the inserts in it...We will see what he says now..

Thanks..............

Here's the deal about the one-way check valve...

They're a small, red rubber flapper thing that goes in the older tanks and lets the tank build pressure but not a vacuum. They're extremely difficult to install and they get expensive @ $6 each when guys ruin them trying to install them.

The stem goes in a small hole in the tank and it goes from inside-out. Lubricate the stem with 2-cycle oil and insert the stem into the opening with needle-nose pliers and then use your finger to hold it there.

Then from the outside, reach down inside the tube (after you've taken the outer vent assembly off) with your needle nose pliers and grab the stem. use your index finger from underneath to work it into place and use the needle nose pliers carefully to provide tension on the stem. You'll see it pop into place eventually. After it's popped into place, work it around a little with your finger to make sure it's seated. Then put the outer vent assembly back on.

Ok I just went out and looked.It is not there..I see the hole it also has a line through it as well a notch like...Oil it and install from inside the tank..CAREFULLY!!!!!

Thanks I just hope I can find one....Or more like it 2 or 3....

Boy am I glad I bought two lol!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

The second one went on easy but I will have to dig the bottom half of the first one out of the tank....

Thanks Jacob J. for all your help on this project!!!!!

Not a problem at all...

I'm assuming that cured your vent and the saw is running fine?

The vent fixed the leak but I still can't figure out the chain spinning problem...

This will be the first time I have had to mess with a carb and I am confused???

Had a air leak chain spinning wide open no adjustments on the carb.Boot had a hole new boot...Both H and L 1.5 turns out. I can hear and see the saw idle different when I turn the L screw..Same when I mess with the idle screw but the chain will not stop.It comes real close so it is just barely ticking over but it wont stop...Now I am under the impression if I turn the idle screw all the way in it should stall is the correct???It does not. It will idle up and down but not enough to make a bid difference..

I did clean and install new clutch springs today as well...

Thanks!!!!

Now I'm wondering if I got the valve in right???

Took off the cap and it was pressurized.Almost like opening a bottle of beer...

The valve allows air in and nothing out??If that is the case I would say I got it right...

Yeah if the tank is pressurizing then you got it right.

As far as the high idle issues goes, it could be worn clutch springs, a bunged up clutch drum bearing, or you still have an air leak somewhere.

Turning the idle screw in (clockwise) only increases the idle speed. As you know, the idle screw (LA) opens the throttle butterfly mechanically.

If your low speed screw is currently 1.5 turns out, give it another 1/8th of a turn out and see how that does. Have you seated the clutch tightly on the crankshaft?

Originally Posted by Jacob J.

Yeah if the tank is pressurizing then you got it right.

As far as the high idle issues goes, it could be worn clutch springs, a bunged up clutch drum bearing, or you still have an air leak somewhere.

Turning the idle screw in (clockwise) only increases the idle speed. As you know, the idle screw (LA) opens the throttle butterfly mechanically.

If your low speed screw is currently 1.5 turns out, give it another 1/8th of a turn out and see how that does. Have you seated the clutch tightly on the crankshaft?

Where is a good spot to start with the idle screw??

New springs, bearing is like new...Leaning towards the air leak....

Yes the clutch got the strong arm treatment...

I guess I'm going back to the dealer to let them try and set it..I have been there so much lately (every day for the past week) they have become friends....Not as dumb as once assumed just kinda backwards....They don't charge for carb tuning and he found the leak in the boot for me too..

So I took the saw to the dealer this am...It took him about two min to get it running right...The saw runs great idles great quick on the trigger everything seems fine now....

It is rainy and wet here don't know when I will be able to try it in some wood....

Thanks ,,Till the next update...

so was it just the mixtures or something else

It was me...I set the H and L 1.5 turns out and the idle all the way in...Took it to town and fired it up he played with the idle first then set the L then H..Took less the 2 min.....

There was a younger fellow there watching us set the carb then we went back in and started talking....The young guy kept eyeballing the saw wanting to know what it was so we started talking..I tell him a 064 with a 066 top end.Without missing a beat he looks at the shop keep and says can you do this to mine???His reply nope an't nothing you can do to a 036 to make it run better!!!!!

I said at least open up the guys muffler..No can do..I priced the saw to the young fellow but it was to high for him...

Kinda feels funny when I bring in the saw it is always the biggest saw there..Folks always ask if I'm a logger and I have to tell them no I just cut firewood