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Thread: Port timing---Degree wheel setup.

  1. 03-21-2010, 07:42 AM #1
    Tzed250
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    Port timing---Degree wheel setup.

    .


    In the past few days there have been a number of posts about port timing. I would guess the most popular method to measure port timing is with a degree wheel. I thought I would do a how to on setting up a degree wheel, as once this is done the rest is easy.



    The earlier questions were posted in this thread, and this thread.



    First, strip the saw to the point that allows access to the flywheel and the spark plug hole.

    I then thread the Stihl flywheel puller into the flywheel.


    puller


    Second, attach a pointer wire to a solid mount on the cases. you don't want this to easily move.


    wire


    Third, attach the degree wheel to the puller(pic3). Look through the plug hole and put the piston at approximately Top Dead Center, position the wheel near 0(pic4), then lightly snug the clamp bolt. I use a large degree wheel as it allows a higher level of precision than a small wheel. A 4.8" wheel made from a CD has about .04" between degrees. The 10.8" wheel shown allows .095" between marks. This same concept is why you will see auto racing engine builders use 36" wheels.


    wheel


    near top


    Fourth, rotate the crank slightly ATDC and insert a piston stop. The stop is necessary to find TDC. After the stop is in place rotate the crank back toward TDC until the piston rests against the stop.


    stop


    Fifth, Read the figure on the degree wheel and make a note of it, some math skills will be required. You will notice that I have sharpened the pointer so that a more precise measurment may be made.

    54 here.


    stop2


    Sixth, rotate the crank around until the piston rests against the stop at BTDC. make a note of this reading.


    52 here.


    stop3

    Seventh, here is where the math skills are needed. Add the two recorded figures together, then divide by two. The result is the point at which this particular piston stop holds the engine before or after TDC.

    (54+52)/2=53

    You can see that it was close to begin with. If the original locations had been 66 and 40 the result would be the same.

    (66+40)/2=53



    Eighth, while holding the flywheel still with the piston against the stop, rotate the lightly snugged degree wheel until the pointer is on the number that you obtained. Tighten the clamp bolt.

    Rotate the crank on around until the piston is against the stop. It should read the same BTDC as it did at ATDC. If it does then the wheel is indexed correctly. If not, then repeat the procedure.


    Now when you place the wheel on zero the piston will be at TDC and port timing measurements can be made.


    TDC


    I hope this helps.




    .
    Trever, redunshee, Rickochet and 2 others like this.
    John

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  2. 03-21-2010, 08:02 AM #2
    manyhobies
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    Thumbs up

    Thanks for the good post! Posts like this makes AS what it is today! Keep it up! REP sent!

    Seeing your "pointer" on the first pic, I thought, "that thing should be sharpened! It's amazing how you read my mind!
    Dan


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  3. 03-21-2010, 08:02 AM #3
    cpr
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    I was thinking I needed a dial indicator through the plug hole to find TDC, but I like your way MUCH better!

    rep sent.
    CPR

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  4. 03-21-2010, 08:13 AM #4
    Tzed250
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    Quote Originally Posted by cpr View Post
    I was thinking I needed a dial indicator through the plug hole to find TDC, but I like your way MUCH better!

    rep sent.
    The dial indicator will not distinguish between the few degrees near TDC when the piston is basically motionless.


    Thanks for the Rep ..

    .
    John

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  5. 03-21-2010, 08:34 AM #5
    Erick
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    Nice post John.
    .

    Darwinism..... thinning the herd for over a million years.
    Just because you can't do it doesn't mean it can't be done.

    In need of a Dolmar 166 muffler... shoot me a PM if you can help.
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  6. 03-21-2010, 08:37 AM #6
    04ultra
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    Hi John......Keep up the good work........







    .
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    I suffer from CAD...........







    BAD GAS IS A KILLER OF ANY 2-STROKE!!!
    .Plenty of saws..............

    I'm trying to add valuable content to this forum, and this is the kind of crap it turns into. Can't blame this one on me!
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  7. 03-21-2010, 08:56 AM #7
    Sprintcar
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    John,

    Super thread. Rep your way.

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  8. 03-21-2010, 09:21 AM #8
    Paul001
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    Well done. Tagging this one for future reference to this very question.

    I'd rep ya if I could...

    Edit to add, btw there are several on this board that I'd love to spend a day (or 20) working with in a shop. The above is a reason you have been on that list for a long time.
    Last edited by Paul001; 03-21-2010 at 09:32 AM.
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  9. 03-21-2010, 09:22 AM #9
    grandpatractor
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    cool
    J.D. -saw operator extrordinair pecan pie eating officianado




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  10. 03-21-2010, 09:31 AM #10
    ronT2
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    Real nice set up! Just like I use on V8s I've built. I just don't have a threaded adapter for the pto or flywheel side on any of my saws....yet. So I improvise for now.
    Quote Originally Posted by CaptainNeil View Post
    Do NOT Modify Your Saw!!
    who has honest to god specs showing better performance out of a muffler mod or pulling limit caps.
    Jonsered 2150,2152 ported, modded mufflers
    Jonsered 2159 ported, muffler mod
    Jonsered 2165 ported 52mm BB kit, muff mod
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    2x Poulan 2000 yeah baby

    Degree wheel set up
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  11. 03-21-2010, 09:33 AM #11
    Paul001
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    Quote Originally Posted by ronT2 View Post
    Real nice set up! Just like I use on V8s I've built. I just don't have a threaded adapter for the pto or flywheel side on any of my saws....yet. So I improvise for now.
    You could modify an old clutch
    Hanlon's Razor
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  12. 03-21-2010, 09:49 AM #12
    Erick
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    So John, is this particular 044 getting "the treatment" or are you just mocking it up for the pics??
    .

    Darwinism..... thinning the herd for over a million years.
    Just because you can't do it doesn't mean it can't be done.

    In need of a Dolmar 166 muffler... shoot me a PM if you can help.
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  13. 03-21-2010, 11:16 AM #13
    Tzed250
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    The 044 was just a test mule on this one. It has had the casting flaws cleaned up, but nothing major.


    .
    John

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  14. 03-21-2010, 11:41 AM #14
    demographic
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    You can download degree wheels as well, print them off then stick them onto something like aluminium sheet.
    Just make sure they are centred properly.

    HERES a selection of them.
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  15. 03-21-2010, 12:32 PM #15
    ronT2
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    Quote Originally Posted by Paul001 View Post
    You could modify an old clutch
    Good thought, that would probably be the easiest way for me to get my hands on a left hand metric? thread.
    Quote Originally Posted by CaptainNeil View Post
    Do NOT Modify Your Saw!!
    who has honest to god specs showing better performance out of a muffler mod or pulling limit caps.
    Jonsered 2150,2152 ported, modded mufflers
    Jonsered 2159 ported, muffler mod
    Jonsered 2165 ported 52mm BB kit, muff mod
    Homelite 330
    2x Poulan 2000 yeah baby

    Degree wheel set up
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