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Thread: 026 Stihl

  1. #16
    Chainsaw Ph.D
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    Saw Dr.'s Avatar
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    Bear in mind that ther are two different fuel lines for the 026. You need to figure out of you have the small hole tank, or the large hole one. Plenty of 026's have been burned up by enterprising individuals forcing a large grommet fuel line on an older tank and the running it.
    Quote Originally Posted by Jacob J. View Post
    You have to understand about Tim, he's kind of OCD about saws...

  2. #17
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    2 fuel lines

    Important to note there are two fuel line variants for the 026. The earlier ones are straight, and have a smaller sealing grommet where it goes through the fuel tank wall. MAKE SURE you have the same one as the original! My local dealer tried to tell me that the new huge one was the only one listed, and it was obviously too big to go through the hole in the tank. Take your original line in when you get the new one, or take the saw in.

    Someone will likely post the part #s of the two lines.

    A bit of snot/spit on the grommet part of the line will ease its fit into the tank hole. It is a friction fit, so it needs to be tight.


    EDIT: This is a redundant post......
    Last edited by teacherman; 05-31-2010 at 08:28 AM. Reason: too slow on the keyboard.....
    Quote Originally Posted by AOD View Post
    Man, that 009 sure is an awesome saw!
    044 Rear Handle Repair thread:
    http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/97523.htm

    Old-school climbing pics, amazing stuff.
    http://www.arboristsite.com/showthre...light=Groundie

    Amazing saw repair thread by the Master!
    http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/48040.htm


    MS660 rocks!

  3. #18
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    adkranger's Avatar
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    From looking at the IPL it appears as following:

    straight hose w/smaller grommet = 1121 358 7705
    curved/formed hose w/larger grommet = 1121 358 7700

    I'd forgotten about the different sized tank openings........
    "Got a funny feeling that my times are caught in a jar, madness and insanity have arrived" D.M.

  4. #19
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    I broke the new one they gave me... It is diffrent from the one I took out as well as the fuel filter is diffrent. I will take them with me to get another one. My carb looks clean as a whistle but I guess I should rebuid it while it's off. Or would you replace the line and see if it cranks? There doesn't appear to have been in fuel in the carb for a while.... Thanks for all the replies....

  5. #20
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    nmurph's Avatar
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    i would rebuild it. the kits are ~$10 and it only takes a few minutes.
    346's 357's 359's 372's for sale- PM me if you are looking

    Quote Originally Posted by mweba View Post
    Ya sounds like a guessignosis to me
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    Any tips or tricks on the rebuild?


    ThankS!

  7. #22
    Booned
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    wigglesworth's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Saw Dr. View Post
    Bear in mind that ther are two different fuel lines for the 026. You need to figure out of you have the small hole tank, or the large hole one. Plenty of 026's have been burned up by enterprising individuals forcing a large grommet fuel line on an older tank and the running it.
    Good info there, I wasnt aware of that. I recently ordered an impulse for an 026 and on the dealers IPL, the number was no good. He had to look it up for a MS260....I thought that was weird.
    not for hire......

    Nuttin to see here....move along.....

  8. #23
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    adkranger's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 7777777 View Post
    Any tips or tricks on the rebuild?


    ThankS!
    GASoline71 had an excellent thread on carb rebuilding a while back. I'd post a link, but "Search" function is not working for me lately. Hopefully search works for you or someone else.

    The major points: work in/on a clean space. take your time. segregate the small bits in bins (or pill bottles work pretty well for me). I usuall tear the carb down on an old steel cookie sheet with a paper plate (the white background is quite helpful with the little bits floatin' around). Be mindful of how metering diaphram and gaskets are aligned for re-assembly. I recommend waiting to have the replacement parts in hand before disassembly, at least for your first one. It really sucks to get all back together only to realize after many cranks that something isn't quite right. Use caution with compressed air. Don't use anything hard, sharp on the ports (like an awl or pick). Carb cleaner works great on the disassembled metal parts, don't get it on the rubber bits though.

    Bottom line, don't be afraid. It's not rocket science, just a little time consuming and working with small bits. Once you've done one you'll jump right into another one with erratic or no run situations.
    Last edited by adkranger; 06-01-2010 at 01:40 PM.
    "Got a funny feeling that my times are caught in a jar, madness and insanity have arrived" D.M.

  9. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by 7777777 View Post
    Any tips or tricks on the rebuild?


    ThankS!
    Be careful not to let the metering lever spring get loose and sproing to who knows where as you remove the metering lever. They are NOT included with a typical carb kit!

    I've read about some folks doing their first dis-assembly/rebuild in a baggie just to be safe. I should have, but was lucky enough to actually find the spring after it went air born. (not likely to ever happen again!)

    Lots of great carb rebuild info here. Roncoinc has a good link to a bunch of stuff as do others.

    But when shooting the carb cleaner through all the little holes and circuits, PROTECT YOUR EYES! It'll come sprayin' back out at ya real fast if you're not prepared for it.

    Poge
    Last edited by PogoInTheWoods; 06-02-2010 at 03:18 PM.
    Poge

    "We have met the enemy, and he is us." -- Pogo

    "It doesn't matter what you or I consider a lousy saw, as just about everyone will have their own perception anyway - a discussion would be pointless...." -- Saw Troll's 38,216th post - 1/11/12

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