Thread: Chainsaw Mills?

I have just bought a house on decent acerage in central New York. The land is filled with huge (100+ years) maples and other hardwoods, as well as some conifers. Regardless of what else I plan to do, I plan to clear about an acre and a half of the land for gardening, and all of those other quaint things. It has occurred to me that I could make good use of the trees I fall - quite a shame to relegate virgin maple to the fireplace.

On that note, I have seen chainsaw mills floating around the web - ebay and vendor sites. Thus, my question is twofold:
1) what size saw should I use if I were to convert it into a mill, and
2) are these mills good in the first place?

I suppose I should add a third question to this:
3) How stupid am I for even considering milling my own lumber?

Craig

All I know about milling is that is very hard on the saw (because you are ripping against the grain), and you want the biggest saw possible. Do not get anything less than a 395XP Husky or an 066 Stihl.

Find a local mill or someone who has a portable mill and see what they charge to cut log into boards or other usable sizes.The mill Icut for sometimes will cut your logs for $100 per 1000 board feet.the local portable mill guy is a little higher (150).It depends how much use you will have for it to make it cost effective.It is never stupid to try new things.Working with wood can be very addictive and expensive to start,but it's great to be able to make things with your own hands. Dan

this sight is very good: http://www3.sympatico.ca/kvn.rob/millingmasters.html i have a small hand mill,alaskan, bought used 50.00, cost new 150.00 or so depending on size. verryyyyyyyyy hard work for an out of shape 55 year old.try to raise logs to waist height. i do mill because im cheep,but looking for a real sawmill. 2to3' dia. hard maple is $$$$$$$$$. biggest saw you can find,and afford. i mill w/ 066 stihl & 394 husky around 100cc saws. the 090 stihl is your best milling saw, they run about 1200.00, if your real serious about milling.the above sight will show you most chainsaw mills. all milling is hard on your saw,as huskyman said. i would think about selling choise logs,w/ money paying a good portable sawmill to come in and cut what you need,as you watch them sweat. there are some real hand millers on this forum, good luck ,nfp

I agree with tree guy, milling your own is pretty cool. Having someone else come in and do it on your site might not be a bad idea for a first time, then you can see what you might be getting into without a big investment. I use a friends mill and it is a lot of fun. Also do you have access to a plainer for possible finish work? Also a bander is handy to keep your loads togther and to also keep your green loads tight and flat to help prevent twisting while drying. I have done it both ways, go to the mill site or come to me. It also depends on what equipment you may be able to use.

the olny word of advice that i have is the bigger the power head the happier you will be. 6 cid class is ideal. i used a poulan 2750 once cause that is all that had gas in it and all i had to make was one cut. but it pissed me off at every turn. the only thing i liked was that it cleared the chips well.

You milled with a 2750? Might as well mill with a 009

Are the saws sold in Canada under the same smog limitations as those sold in the USA?

hey i was despirate causei was out of gas and the nearest gas station is 10 miles away and all we have is a diesel tank on the farm. but the 2750 did the job.

This is great - exactly the information I need. Any other input would be great. I just got back from the new home site and did some more careful inspection. It looks as if someone had planted a mini-grove of maples and an orchard of cherry trees. Probably 12 or so Maples with Diameters at the trunk of about (no lie) five feet or so, and really big cherry trees that are past bearing age (two or three feet diameter at the trunk).

It is sad to see them have to go, though I think I can save a few of the maples. It will also be the biggest job I have ever done. Unlike many of you, I have had little "practice" felling timber, and I've never done it for personal benefit as I am now (it seems that the widows at my church pass my name around as the guy to ask to do this type of thing for them. Well, gold stars for me, I guess)

I tell you what: When I move in in January, I'll take pictures and post them on my webpage for you to see - then let you see my progress as I cut and mill (I am DEFINATELY going to do this). We'll see what a nerd-philosopher (I'm a professor when not a lumberjack) can do with a destructive power tool. My wife thinks I'm crazy, to which I reply that she can do whatever she wants with the house - I get the land.

I'll post more questions as they arise. I'm sure they will. Again, if you have any more suggestions, go for it. This is very helpful.

Craig

Craig:
You have a great company up in your part of the woods for a chainsaw mill. I purchased a Hudson chainsaw mill last year with an 066 power head. I've run several large oak, elm, china berry and ash through it with no problems. Its a bit of work, but I have had alot of success with it. With that many tree's, I personally would be making alot of lumber. If you choose this mill, email me and I'll let you know all of the things I've learned, like the blocks on the mill carriage.

Dustoff4@aol.com

Then there are band saws out there for under $5k new. I looked for used on the net but could not find any listed. One or two stationary on ebay.

If doing a lot of sawing, the bandsaw is much better on the bodey and with the smaller curf, less waste in the log. if you have 60 inch logs, you will kill yourself on a chainsaw mill.

What are those circle saw rigs Baylies sells for timber framing?