Thread: New Chain Sharpener

Originally Posted by Chris75

Sorry, you must be misinterpreting my post.
When I said the taper on the tooth, I meant the angle of the top of the tooth from front to rear.
Here is a dodgy paint effort to try and explain better.

I understand what your saying.
That's why I recommend both 7/32 and 13/64 not absolutly nessessary, but works better once the cutters are 2/3 or more through there life.

Originally Posted by Preston

This tool truely looks incredibly functional. I know also that with 500 sets of eyes looking at it, each pair is looking at something different. So the nitpicking begins. But I do have three question about it.

One is with the grinding tips fitting into the alignment bushings, when the tooth is finished and the tip is pulled out for the next grind, does the filings get into the guide and could they cause premature wear?

Second is how is the length of each tooth kept the same? I've always been careful to keep the number of file strokes the same to account for this.

Third is the flipper stop looks as though it would be the first thing to wear for a replacement. How is this parts make for ease of replacement, or is it meant to be replaced?

I sure like the looks of and the edge results. Very nice.

The length of the tooth is determined by how the stop is set. You can turn and turn until your hearts desire with the crank of the cutter but it will only take xx amount off the tooth.

Its a pin holding the flipper/pawl in the stop. Pop the pin out, replace pawl, and reinsert pin. I actually have a new pawl here waiting to go in. My original looks like a gopher got after it.

I just contacted Timberline about replacement parts and they gave me instructions on how to order them.

Excellent folks to deal with and if something messes up in your order they do their darnedest to make it right.

I read every post. I watched the video on the website. I want one. A lot of people I respect on here have one and I am going to join the club. Thanks guys, Russ

Thanks Ben. That does it for me.

Some will love this tool. Some will tolerate it. Some may even consider it trash. I've used it to sharpen many loops and it serves me very well. Don't expect to get everything perfect the first time you use it. Tinker with it and you can make it work for you.

Some observations:
Once you tighten the screws to mount this on the bar pull the cutter back out and make sure you can spin the chain all the way around. I try to get mine low in the tooth for the reason mentioned above about tooth shape and have had a tooth catch about half way through and had to readjust.

Don't try to do the job in one pass if the chain is really dull or rocked. It is so much easier to run through a few light passes than fight through trying to get it done in one pass. If you maintain the chain as frequently as you should it will be a one pass touch up.

I have run across a few chains that were sharpened by a grinder and it's difficult to use the carbide in these. You'll know what I mean when you are lucky enough to fight with one of these. I use the dremel with the sharpening stone on it to get the shape right. Then sharpen with the carbide.

Originally Posted by Preston

This tool truely looks incredibly functional. I know also that with 500 sets of eyes looking at it, each pair is looking at something different. So the nitpicking begins. But I do have three question about it.

One is with the grinding tips fitting into the alignment bushings, when the tooth is finished and the tip is pulled out for the next grind, does the filings get into the guide and could they cause premature wear?

Second is how is the length of each tooth kept the same? I've always been careful to keep the number of file strokes the same to account for this.

Third is the flipper stop looks as though it would be the first thing to wear for a replacement. How is this parts make for ease of replacement, or is it meant to be replaced?

I sure like the looks of and the edge results. Very nice.

1) Yes some filings could end up in the bushing, simply blow them out... no big deal.
2) The backstop keeps the cutters all aligned the same. You will find that if you set it on your shortest cutter, it may not even make it into the longest cutter, depending on how far off they are. What I did was use the tapered part of the cutter to begin the shortening process. Make a few turns of the cutter w/ the tapper section and slowly push in until the true cutter size is in the tooth. You will feel when the cutter is sharp, and the same length as the carbide spins much more freely.
3) While I do not think, it would wear out, as there is no pressure on it as you drag the chain under. It does come out easily, so you could replace it, but their site does list it as a separate piece. I guess if you call, they will provide one for you.

Also just noticed mention of the 13/64" carbide cutter, they did not have this size when I ordered mine, and is why I held off for so long. All my files etc. were 13/64" and did not want to change over.... I just ordered that size cutter.


dw

Thanks. I will be getting one of those sharpners.

Well, I'm interested, and tried to enter all the discount codes with none working. Is there a working discount code at this time?

I've been hand sharpening for a lot of years, and it never fails that one side of my chains are filed down a lot more than the other side.

Respects,

Richard

I installed the new pawl yesterday. I just used a small drill bit as the punch and then repressed the pin back in with a vise.

I also put in the 13/64 cutter and tried that.

Oh man, I tell you what. It was like cutting butter.

So, I dont know if that was from a new cutter or the 13/64 size.

I seemed to knock out an 84dl chain rather quick.

Again, a good product and a good company with really good customer service.

Curse you all!

Well this is my review. The unit came in today and I was very impressed with the quality of it. I had a rocked chain on the right-hand side and that was the first chain that I sharpened.

Five minutes into the job I got very frustrated because of the slow going. Then I had a brainstorm, that's always dangerous. I have a 9.6 volt semi retired Makita two speed drill. I inserted the bit in the drill, and started using tool with enormous success. At low speed the drill does a good job pretty much identical to the crank handle.

It did take longer to sharpen this chain but it did a very good job. The cut was polished and the edges were sharp. One thing that I really enjoyed using this tool and was not expecting was the fact that you could see the glint and how much to sharpen to remove the glint from the tooth. With a good light over my right shoulder you could see the edge of the tooth being ground and know when to stop.

The tool does not seem to work well with a worn-out bar, but with a fairly new bar the teeth are well supported and the tool works as designed. Quite impressive,actually!

This tool is definitely a keeper especially with my cordless electric drill. Please remember that this drill turns very slowly. The speed at the low setting is comparable to the handcrank. I did not and will not use the high speed selector on the drill.

Oh ... I lubed the shaft and guide holes with DuPont Teflon spray to minimize wear and stop the squealing from it not being broken in. At the end of the second chain it was operating soundlessly and smoothly.

Curious to find out how the chain will handle those little metal shavings ...

Another unexpected plus is the tool in its high quality case fits into the Stihl plastic carry case by the saw throttle. How much more can you ask for?

Just placed my order for a Timberline system, extra 3/16" cutter and the 25/35 bushing. Can't wait for it to show up. Even got a nice $25 off Promo code!!!

Came home today to my new Timberline Sharpening system. Very impressive quality. Can not wait to try it out tomorrow.

Originally Posted by benp

I installed the new pawl yesterday. I just used a small drill bit as the punch and then repressed the pin back in with a vise.

I also put in the 13/64 cutter and tried that.

Oh man, I tell you what. It was like cutting butter.

So, I dont know if that was from a new cutter or the 13/64 size.

I seemed to knock out an 84dl chain rather quick.

Again, a good product and a good company with really good customer service.

The 13/64" does make'm cut like "butter" doesen't it?

I believe the primary reason for increased cutting performance on the 13/64 carbide is due to slightly more agressive cutter geometry of top and side plates, But you have too keep in mind there are always "trade-offs" in Edge-Durability VS. Cutting Performance.

In the sharpening of Chisel bit chain the following applies In my experience Whether your using this tool or a file: If your using 3/8" Stihl RSC-you can use the 13/64 carbide from "new cutter" through "End of Life" and achieve better cutting performance throughout the life of the chain without the consequence of decreased durability. This is primarily because of the slightly shorter cutter "height". This is why Stihl recommends the 13/64 file on 3/8" RSC.

3/8" Oregon Chisel has a "taller" cutter, so your better sticking with 7/32" carbide until approx 1/3 cutter length left, then switch to 13/64" carbide to maitain high performance. By then the cutter height has decreased due to cutter slope. Using the 13/64 carbide too early on with new Oregon Chisel (such as LGX) will result in an aggressive, but excessively "Thin-Fragile" cutter-edge. It will cut like a "son-of-a-beach", but usually only for a short time. This is why Oregon recommends 7/32"

I didn't realize there was even a difference between the two types until putting the two brands cutters side by side and looking at them closely. I Have to give credit to "sawtroll" for helping me to understand the differences. I could tell the it made an improvment in performance, but didn't understand the reasons why.... Thanks ST

In using this sharpener I only wish that Timberline would have gone with a "Harder-more Wear resistant" material for the Guides. Mine haven't gotten sloppy yet, but I know the potential is there with soft aluminum as the material. At least the guides are inexpensive and easily replaced should they eventually wear out-"Keeping them well oiled should help a lot".

Overall I'm very pleased with the tool.

My 2 Cents.

Yesterday I had the chance to sharpen 2 chains and use them. The 2 chains I sharpened were in some rough shape after I butchered them with a grinder (boy did I suck with that machine!!). It took me a little to get things going smooth because my chains were so messed up and uneven. However, the Timberline Sharpener brought these chains back to life. I am VERY impressed with the results I got. Now that my chains are all even and cleaned up from using the Timberline, future sharpening should be a breeze. I ordered an extra sharpener but if these are quality carbide, they should last a very long time. The Timberline sharpener is a winner!!!

How long are you guys finding that the carbide cutters hold up?