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Thread: basic carb tuning

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    roundhead's Avatar
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    basic carb tuning

    I have been looking around at the site and I keep seeing words that I do not understand
    what is "4 stoking" mean?
    I am thinking about opening up the muffler but I know you need to adjust the carb to run richer so that you do not burn up the saw. I have looked at BLSnellings videos, but I am not sure on how the carb adjustments work. I have both H and L screw on my carb plus the idle screw. Right now the carb is at the recomended setting but if I modify the saw, do you adjust the low needle to make it run richer? I have an extra cylinder that I want to try to port but I am not sure about how the carb adjustments work. I understand that "rich" is more fuel less air as opposed to "lean" but that is about it.

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    Click the link in my sig below.

    You'll need to give it more fuel on the H & L. Adjust your idle accordingly.
    H 2 H likes this.

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    HOW TO TUNE A CARBURETOR

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    Quote Originally Posted by Evanrude View Post
    Click the link in my sig below.

    You'll need to give it more fuel on the H & L. Adjust your idle accordingly.
    Thanks...I have read the document. very helpful. explains things simply. the only thing that was unclear was that you mentioned turning the screw "out" and "in." I will assume that "in" means clockwise. I will read over your website info. This is really helpful and saves hours of searching threads

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    In = Clockwise
    Out = Counter Clockwise
    Stihl 017
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    Stihl MS460
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    These are the Videos I am currently going over and over. These are made by members here.

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    Another one

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    Final


    Hope these are helpful. I have found them to be very!!!

    They have really helped me to start to hear the differences.
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    Quote Originally Posted by benp View Post
    These are the Videos I am currently going over and over. These are made by members here.

    Thanks, that is also helpful. what do you mean by "Four Stroking"?
    PS that is a manly saw

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    Quote Originally Posted by roundhead View Post
    Thanks, that is also helpful. what do you mean by "Four Stroking"?
    PS that is a manly saw
    Listen to the saw running in the second video with the Stihl. On the first cut, notice how the saw is changing sound, runs clean then makes a funny (almost like its missing) burble - thats the 'four stroke' sound. The first vid with the Husky is kinda hard to hear cuz its quick and in the garage.

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    HOW TO TUNE A CARBURETOR

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    Quote Originally Posted by Evanrude View Post
    Listen to the saw running in the second video with the Stihl. On the first cut, notice how the saw is changing sound, runs clean then makes a funny (almost like its missing) burble - thats the 'four stroke' sound. The first vid with the Husky is kinda hard to hear cuz its quick and in the garage.
    Yeah, I could hear that. it looks like you turned the L screw out to change that noise. what did that do to affect the carb?

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    When its 'four stroking' in the cut its getting more fuel than it needs (rich). So, you turn the H screw in (CW). This lessens the fuel - leans it out. BUT if you lift the saw while keeping the throttle pegged, you should hear that four stroking. If you don't, you're too lean. Its really not that difficult. Harder to understand by reading than doing it and listening to the saw.
    tpope likes this.

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    HOW TO TUNE A CARBURETOR

  12. #12
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    Just another GREAT thread

    I'm modifying a MS 250 for around the house and reading this site now for what three weeks ?

    And I can't believe all the great info and the help from others here on the site

    I'm just wondering after all these modifications I've done to a 4 week old saw will violate my warrantee
    Last edited by H 2 H; 02-22-2012 at 02:27 PM.
    Brian

    Like what has been said many many times here on AS
    Once you run a modified saw you'll never go back to a stock chain saw ever again !

    When have you ran a 545 and 550 back to back or even on different days
    or you just going by what you assume or read ?

    Those that declare that they (029/290) won't hold up bc of the lack of pro design
    are merely ill-informed or are ignorant.

    It doen't look good to anyone else I guess, except maybe for a few "brand fans".


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    Quote Originally Posted by H 2 H View Post
    Just another GREAT thread

    I'm modifying a MS 250 for around the house and reading this site now for what three weeks ?

    And I can't believe all the great info and the help from others here on the site

    I'm just wondering after all these modifications I've done to a 4 week old saw will violate my warrantee
    I'll bet that it will. Might want to buy an unmodded muffler in case you need warranty work..
    Husqvarna L65, L77, 2100, 288 XP Lite, 576XPAT...Mr Fluffy

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    Quote Originally Posted by tpope View Post
    I'll bet that it will. Might want to buy an unmodded muffler in case you need warranty work..
    The muffler I did mod was and old one so the muffler that came with the saw is still safe and sound
    Brian

    Like what has been said many many times here on AS
    Once you run a modified saw you'll never go back to a stock chain saw ever again !

    When have you ran a 545 and 550 back to back or even on different days
    or you just going by what you assume or read ?

    Those that declare that they (029/290) won't hold up bc of the lack of pro design
    are merely ill-informed or are ignorant.

    It doen't look good to anyone else I guess, except maybe for a few "brand fans".


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