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Thread: Critique my sharpening skills

  1. 08-19-2012, 06:29 PM #46
    PA Plumber
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    Regarding pics of the wheel. The one side looks like it is very clogged up with goobershnitzle (grime/dust/oil/dirt/etc.)
    As mentioned, flipping the wheel and dressing/cleaning it up, will help a lot.

    The recent set of pics of the tooth look better. Don't forget to file down the rakers.
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  2. 08-19-2012, 06:31 PM #47
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    In the second pic it looks like there's still some flashing on the corner. The corner must be square and true.
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  3. 08-19-2012, 06:32 PM #48
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    Quote Originally Posted by Andyshine77 View Post
    In the second pic it looks like there's still some flashing on the corner. The corner must be square and true.
    What do you mean by flashing?
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  4. 08-19-2012, 06:41 PM #49
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    Quote Originally Posted by Andyshine77 View Post
    In the second pic it looks like there's still some flashing on the corner. The corner must be square and true.
    Could be that it's Carlton chain. It doesn't have that really square corner that we're used to on Stihl chain.
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  5. 08-19-2012, 06:45 PM #50
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    It looks far better for sure.

    On a side note, what thickness is that wheel you're using on your grinder? Should be 1/8" for that chain, 3/16" does actually work but you have to be pretty exact to get it right.
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  6. 08-19-2012, 06:49 PM #51
    TK
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    By the way I think you need a new bar. Or sprocket. Or both. That chain is looking pretty rough down there, and from the looks of it I'd say there's a very deep groove worn in the bar rails.
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  7. 08-19-2012, 06:59 PM #52
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    Quote Originally Posted by TK View Post
    By the way I think you need a new bar. Or sprocket. Or both. That chain is looking pretty rough down there, and from the looks of it I'd say there's a very deep groove worn in the bar rails.
    I was thinking the same thing. I can not buy just a sprocket since mine is not replaceable. What kind of suggestions do you have for a bar? There are so many different types, I don't know where to start.

    BTW, how many strokes do you think it took to get the tooth looking like that? I did not use the grinder at all. The grinder wheel is 1/8" thick, I believe.
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  8. 08-19-2012, 07:00 PM #53
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    When you buy a new bar, buy two new chains and rotate them when you sharpen.
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  9. 08-19-2012, 07:01 PM #54
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  10. 08-19-2012, 07:13 PM #55
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    Quote Originally Posted by WKEND LUMBERJAK View Post
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  11. 08-19-2012, 07:15 PM #56
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    Quote Originally Posted by blsnelling View Post
    20
    Yes, at least that many for sure. Probably took a half dozen just to get the file to fit the tooth
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  12. 08-19-2012, 07:15 PM #57
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    Memory,

    I salvage a lot of chains - almost any chain can be put back to some kind of usable service. As noted, you need to remove any damaged area, then get uniform, consistent, sharp edges - however you choose to do that.

    The differences between the photos in your posts #1 and #44 are dramatic. Note how the shape of the cutters in the earlier ones are rough, inconsistent, and erratic, and the later ones are smooth and uniform. You did the latter ones with a file. It is possible to do it with a grinder. I am not a big fan of the HF grinder, but if you can achieve this result with that tool . . .

    As far as the bent tip on the cutters, it is something that I see more frequently with full chisel cutters. If that appears to be an on-going problem, you might try a semi-chisel chain for those tasks where that happens.

    Philbert
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  13. 08-19-2012, 07:17 PM #58
    TK
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    Quote Originally Posted by memory View Post
    I was thinking the same thing. I can not buy just a sprocket since mine is not replaceable. What kind of suggestions do you have for a bar? There are so many different types, I don't know where to start.

    BTW, how many strokes do you think it took to get the tooth looking like that? I did not use the grinder at all. The grinder wheel is 1/8" thick, I believe.
    I meant drive sprocket on the saw Give that a good looking at too.

    As far as the bar goes, a good name will treat you well. Carlton, Oregon, or OEM. I don't recall if you mentioned what you had for a saw but Stihl OEM bars are nice. I just wouldn't go with SilverStreak or any Chinese knockoff types. If you want something extremely durable it's gonna cost ya but like I said most normal bars will do you just fine.
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  14. 08-19-2012, 07:24 PM #59
    angelo c
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    BAck to your noodling issue..if the cutters are not in line and your bar is not straight you will "twist" in the cut and the bar will be cutting against its side. I bet you a buck that old chain was not noodling in a straight line. Is the chain ain't cutting straight look to find out why. Cutter/ bar/ L/R relationship between cutters and raker height.
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  15. 08-19-2012, 07:33 PM #60
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    I might also mention, if your bar is in bad shape, even a new chain won't cut. It'll try to cut in a curve and simply quit cutting. It all has to work together.
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