Thread: stihl 009L rebuilt

Hello,
Ive recenty rebuilt my 009L saw with new piston/ cylinder, bearing, oil seals and gaskets.

It starts ok but there is a problem with carburetor or crank case gasket I think???

It idle very high causing the chain to turn. I tried back off the idle screw No. 3 but still turning.

I noticed there are 2 other screws No.1 and No.2 high/low speed which unforetunely I turned.

Can anyone pls help adjust the carburetor and what is the possible cause for the high idle.


Thank You

High idle can be a seal or gasket leak-air getting in...too much air....too much air/too lean....too lean....high rpm. Start with the carb. Madsen's has a very nice tutorial on carb tuning. Check it out. There's also several threads on AS about carb tuning. Start with your high and low screws one turn out from lightly seated. That'll be your starting point. I don't know rpm specs on that saw off the top of my head. Someone here surely will. I'd guess idle should be somewhere around 2,500 rpm, and full throttle probably 12k or 13k. Your L and idle screw will effect your idle speed. Between those two screws you'll be able to stop that chain from turning at idle. If you can't, you've got issues elsewhere.

Also, make sure your saw is warmed up before making adjustments.

Keep with us, and we'll get you going right.

Jeff

Thanks for the quick respone.

I think there is an air leak somewhere. The problem is where???

If I spray WD-40 or oil around the gaskets would this confirm an air leak.??

Could the leak be around the two oil seals or just around the crank gasket??


Thanks you

WD-40 or aero start would be a good way to tell if there a re any air leaks.

I use carb cleaner to check for vacuum leaks, spray area and listen for a change in RPM

The most likely candidate for any air leak on an 009 is the carb mount block and reed assembly. You need new gaskets (2) for the reed block, and if the saw is the older orange type, there is a big problem with the reed assembly warping slightly. I have repaired and reused old gaskets on the 009 with a very thin smear of Permatex HPF.

Spraying WD40 is o.k.. I don't recommended spraying Carb cleaner - it eats everything....

First set you carb L+H screws to one turn out from gently seated... and as fishhunt said, look on the Madsen's web site about tuning. H on the 009 is a bit lower than Jeff is used too.. more like 11k... but just leave it at 1 turn out until you've fixed everything else.

Originally Posted by Lakeside53

Spraying WD40 is o.k.. I don't recommended spraying Carb cleaner - it eats everything....


H on the 009 is a bit lower than Jeff is used too.. more like 11k... but just leave it at 1 turn out until you've fixed everything else.

Doing leak checks on aircraft, we use what is basically soapy water. Not combustable or flammable, and won't leave an oily mess. JMO.

And I wondered if the saw's age would have it in a lower H rpm range, but I thought about it's size, which is why I went with the 12k-13k recommendation, but is also why I mentioned I wasn't sure. Too bad Tom's site isn't around, I'd of been able to check it there. All good things...

Jeff

Thanks to all for the respone.
The saw is a grey model 009L. I will try the Permatex HPF on the carb gaskets. Should I use the hardening or non-hardening type ??

Im thinking using Permatex HPF on the crank case gasket as well.

Do you guys think this is a good idea ?

I also noticed there is a small sponge which seats under the carbby.

Is this just a filter.???

Originally Posted by adam123

Im thinking using Permatex HPF on the crank case gasket as well.

Do you guys think this is a good idea ?

I don't see a problem with that, but a little goes a long way. I'd put on less than I thought I needed. Too much will make a mess and make it hell when/if you rebuild it again.

Originally Posted by adam123

Thanks to all for the respone.
The saw is a grey model 009L. I will try the Permatex HPF on the carb gaskets. Should I use the hardening or non-hardening type ??

Im thinking using Permatex HPF on the crank case gasket as well.

Do you guys think this is a good idea ?

I also noticed there is a small sponge which seats under the carbby.

Is this just a filter.???

The crankcase gasket should go on dry, as should all your NEW gaskets. I suggested the HPF as a gasket repair if you were using old gaskets. The HPF product is only available in one form... a very sticky product like thick grease - use sparingly... I'm not taking about the permatex gasket makers.


Just to be sure we're taking the same thing, the gaskets to put the HPF on are not inside the crab, but just the gaskets that mount on both sides of the reed block.

Take a good look at your reed block (right beneath the carb) when you have it out. If there is any damage to the reed like kinks, warps or whatever, replace it.


Sponge under the carb? Never seen that... Do you have an IPL? You really need to pressure test the saw to find your problem. Do you have the service manual?