Thanks for the link, worked out great...
Thanks everyone for all of the good advice. I'm just getting use to mine. I've sharpened a couple of old chains just to get the feel of it. I've noticed that when switching from one direction to the other, I'm concerned about whether or how consistent the tooth length will be from one side to the other?
I'm considering getting a cheap dial caliper to measure the teeth with to keep them consistent. Any advice here?
I also haven't figured out the depth gauge and how to know how deep to grind on the tooth?
I have the 10 degree tilt figured out. I'm pretty sure both my chains call for it.
How's the best way to use a speed square to check the angle on the grinder?
Thanks for any help you could give.
Stihl 025 w/ 18" bar
Stihl MS 310 w/ 20" bar
Northern Tool Chain Grinder
I Stihl need some wedges..... lol
Has anyone other then myself checked out the accuracy of the scales on the NT grinder ?
I have and found that it is off quite a bit. However, the difference in where the wheel meets the tooth does not appear to be that great. Now that I have done it I will use my new settings. I did put a NEW chain on the sharpener and it appeared that the factory setting were quite close. However, I was useing a 1/8" wheel on a 3/8" pitch chain. It seem to fit in the tooth good. (I never had the grinder turned on.)
If anyone has any input, I wish you would share it with me.
Re: 5 - I was able to loosen the small nut on the opposite end of that bolt to extend the stop towards the operator just enough that now the thumbscrew allows enough travel but still keeps the stop on the shaft rather than on the threaded part of the bolt. The slop comes from the metal flipper getting too far towards the thumbscrew such that it gets off the solid shaft onto the threaded part. By moving the entire bolt further towards the front, the threaded part is avoided. Just loosen the nut on the backside, pull the bolt forward a bit (1/16" may be enough), set the nut with lock washer accordingly, and then tighten the backside nut.
Re: 6 - Tightening will not help in my case. The slop is in the stop's fit over the bushing. Tightening that bolt just snugged the bushing up tighter to the casting. Here is what I did as a work-around. I removed the bolt, and filed the bushing down flat against the moving stop. In other words, the bushing and stop are now the same length, whereas before the bushing was slightly longer (so the stop would not bind). I put it back together, added a larger washer and snugged it up tight. It's almost to the point that the stop does now bind, but a little hand pressure and it will move easily. That's ok with me, since I would set the tooth away from the wheel and then nudge the tooth closer by moving the stop adjustment knob. Just be careful to not file off too much of the bushing, otherwise, it will bind to the point it cannot move freely enough to adjust the amount of cut. The larger washer now exerts more side pressure on the stop, so it helps quite a bit with the slop.
Last edited by coloradotrout; 03-26-2013 at 11:57 AM.
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