Thread: Northern Hyd grinder, making it work (pics)

Originally Posted by Donald A

That chart is great. I printed a copy and it is fuzzy. Do you recall where you got the original copy?
Thanks.

http://www.northerntool.com/download...als/193020.pdf

tawilson,
Thanks for the link, worked out great...

Thanks everyone for all of the good advice. I'm just getting use to mine. I've sharpened a couple of old chains just to get the feel of it. I've noticed that when switching from one direction to the other, I'm concerned about whether or how consistent the tooth length will be from one side to the other?

I'm considering getting a cheap dial caliper to measure the teeth with to keep them consistent. Any advice here?

I also haven't figured out the depth gauge and how to know how deep to grind on the tooth?

I have the 10 degree tilt figured out. I'm pretty sure both my chains call for it.
How's the best way to use a speed square to check the angle on the grinder?

Thanks for any help you could give.
Chris

Originally Posted by ericjeeper

Can you mail your spare ball to Dan? So he can have two matching balls again?LOL
I took mine apart on a towel so they would not roll away..

Man that must have been painful!!!

Has anyone other then myself checked out the accuracy of the scales on the NT grinder ?
I have and found that it is off quite a bit. However, the difference in where the wheel meets the tooth does not appear to be that great. Now that I have done it I will use my new settings. I did put a NEW chain on the sharpener and it appeared that the factory setting were quite close. However, I was useing a 1/8" wheel on a 3/8" pitch chain. It seem to fit in the tooth good. (I never had the grinder turned on.)
If anyone has any input, I wish you would share it with me.

Re: 5 - I was able to loosen the small nut on the opposite end of that bolt to extend the stop towards the operator just enough that now the thumbscrew allows enough travel but still keeps the stop on the shaft rather than on the threaded part of the bolt. The slop comes from the metal flipper getting too far towards the thumbscrew such that it gets off the solid shaft onto the threaded part. By moving the entire bolt further towards the front, the threaded part is avoided. Just loosen the nut on the backside, pull the bolt forward a bit (1/16" may be enough), set the nut with lock washer accordingly, and then tighten the backside nut.

Re: 6 - Tightening will not help in my case. The slop is in the stop's fit over the bushing. Tightening that bolt just snugged the bushing up tighter to the casting. Here is what I did as a work-around. I removed the bolt, and filed the bushing down flat against the moving stop. In other words, the bushing and stop are now the same length, whereas before the bushing was slightly longer (so the stop would not bind). I put it back together, added a larger washer and snugged it up tight. It's almost to the point that the stop does now bind, but a little hand pressure and it will move easily. That's ok with me, since I would set the tooth away from the wheel and then nudge the tooth closer by moving the stop adjustment knob. Just be careful to not file off too much of the bushing, otherwise, it will bind to the point it cannot move freely enough to adjust the amount of cut. The larger washer now exerts more side pressure on the stop, so it helps quite a bit with the slop.

Originally Posted by Butch(OH)

5. Slop in chain stop. There is a step in the shaft under my fingers and the nut is supposed to keep the stop up on the larger part of the shaft but it cant do that because of the step in the thumb nut. The slop created then causes a "spongy" stop. The fix is to get rid of the recess in the nut by filing flat.


6. Another reason for chain stop slop is the cap screw at the bottom of the stop was not tight enough. a quarter turn tightened the stop on mine but with China tollarances may not repair others?

I was looking at this yesterday. It shows a 1/8" wheel for many chains. I do NOT believe that is correct. I'm using a Carlton A1LN, and the wheel to use is the 3/16" --NOT 1/8". As soon as you get out the profile guide you'll see the 1/8" wheel is never going to work!

Originally Posted by woodchux