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Thread: 2071 carb settings?

  1. 03-14-2008, 04:35 PM #1
    Ray Bennett
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    2071 carb settings?

    I took my 2071 out for some work today and the good news is it ran great. My question is where is the carb supposed to be set on this saw. When I got it The H screw was just about 3/4 turn out from lightly seated. The L was around 1/4 turn out. It ran strong has lots of compression but that scared me so I went to 1 turn out and that caused it to burbble a little much. I slowly worked the H back till It was just over 3/4 turn out like when I got it. I did a search here and most folks are saying to put the 372,371,2071,and 2171 at 1 turn out for H and L. The saw will not seems perfect at just over 1/4 L and just over 3/4 H. Do I have some type of problem? The plug and air filter are in good condition, Im running a 24 inch B/c
    STIHL'S 290 440 460 660 (the reason my left arm is bigger than my right), Jonsered 930 (RIP). 2071
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  2. 03-14-2008, 04:44 PM #2
    kevlar
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    1 and 1 is just a starting point you probably had it good.
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  3. 03-14-2008, 04:57 PM #3
    Ray Bennett
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    Quote Originally Posted by kevlar View Post
    1 and 1 is just a starting point you probably had it good.
    It ran like crap at 1 and 1. Would not idle and 4 stroked like crazy. I tune a lot of carbs and know what Im doing. That is why Im asking why this carb needed to be just over 1/4 L and Just over 3/4 H. I dont have a manuel and have no Idea what stock should be. Therefore I have no idea if I should start looking for some other problem. I am used to working on stihl's which usually like 1 to 1 1/8t turn out on the H. I have very little experince with the Jonsred/Husky type newer saws.
    STIHL'S 290 440 460 660 (the reason my left arm is bigger than my right), Jonsered 930 (RIP). 2071
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  4. 03-14-2008, 05:40 PM #4
    kevlar
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    like I said 1 and 1 is a starting point only. The saw will start and run but it is not tuned.
    Got Wood?

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    Jonsered 90
    Pioneer 600a
    Maculloch D36, I-46
    Stihl 026pro, 036pro, 038mag, 041farmboss, 045super 460 mag, 056magII, 066, 075, 084, 090

    "A fool and his money are soon partying" "Run Forest Run!!"

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  5. 03-14-2008, 07:17 PM #5
    Ray Bennett
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    Quote Originally Posted by kevlar View Post
    like I said 1 and 1 is a starting point only. The saw will start and run but it is not tuned.
    Ok, My bad, I thought you were saying 1 and 1 was probally right. Thank you much for the help.

    Im gona look at the muffler in a day or 2 and see if it needs opening up a little. Maybe that will get me to 1 or 1 1/4 turns which makes me more comfortable.
    STIHL'S 290 440 460 660 (the reason my left arm is bigger than my right), Jonsered 930 (RIP). 2071
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  6. 03-15-2008, 03:34 AM #6
    SawTroll
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    Here is WORKSHOP MANUAL for the 371xp - same saw.
    Firewood saws: Jonsereds Raket 621 (1970), Husky 353G (2003), Euro Stihl MS361W (2004), Husky 372xpg (nov 2006), Husky 339xp (may 2007), Husky 346xpg New Edition (sept 2007), Jonsered 2153WH (april 2010), Husky 560xpg (nov 2011).

    Witchys saw, Dolmar PS5100SH (also may 2007). Rest in peace, my love!

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  7. 03-15-2008, 07:42 AM #7
    Ray Bennett
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    Troll, that is awsome thanks much. That will be a big help as I do not have any experince working on the newer Jonsereds and Huskeys. I can not belive how much different this saw is from my older Jonsereds and my stihls. I tried to rep ya But the computer wants me to spreat the wealth first. Thanks very much.
    STIHL'S 290 440 460 660 (the reason my left arm is bigger than my right), Jonsered 930 (RIP). 2071
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  8. 03-15-2008, 04:48 PM #8
    PES+
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    A question

    Are your limiter caps removed?

    I have never seen any 2071 run at 1/4 on the low ever.

    I suspect there is some mis communication here.

    3/4 on the high does sound normal for around the elevation here.
    **** OK....again.....you DAMP vibrations with elastic material.......you DAMPEN vibration like anything else....with a hose ****
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  9. 03-15-2008, 04:58 PM #9
    HUSKYMAN
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    Hey if it runs right thats what important. Keep an eye on the plug and as long as its a good color of tan your are good to go.

    The low speed jet's only purpose is to transition the saw from idle to WOT anyways. Its the high jet that will burn the saw up from being lean.
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  10. 03-15-2008, 05:07 PM #10
    Freakingstang
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    The older carbs from the 371's and 2071 without limiter caps didn't seem to be out a full turn compared to the newer ones.

    Don't ever remember them being that low on the low side though
    -Steve
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  11. 03-16-2008, 12:15 AM #11
    Ray Bennett
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    It does not have limiter caps. I probally should have just ran it and been happy cause it runs great. The plug is a nice dark brown. Compression is just under 150. Any time I buy a used saw I go over it real close in case someone adjusted it and did not know what they were doing. Now the only thing I can figure is that maybe the needles are stiff because an old man owned this saw and probally never touched the needles. It may be possible that what I thought was lightly seated was just stiff and not lightly seated. Now that said and considering it is running great would you pull the L needle and clean it up with carb cleaner and see for sure where it is at. I fear forcing it down may destory an O ring and start problems. I dont mind working on equipment but I dont like to make my own problems when it is running well.
    STIHL'S 290 440 460 660 (the reason my left arm is bigger than my right), Jonsered 930 (RIP). 2071
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  12. 03-16-2008, 05:45 AM #12
    PES+
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    Run it

    And just be aware of any changes that would cause damage.

    IE raising top RPM when in use.....varying idle.

    As long as the high speed is rich enough run it

    What's that old saying

    Don't trouble trouble until trouble troubles you.....

    If you are worried and feel confident I would install a kit and set your needle height as I think it may be an adjustment issue with the metering diaphram and needle which are high wear items over time.

    I can't swear to it but I think the early 2071s run here around 3/4 lo and close to the same on the hi
    Last edited by PES+; 03-16-2008 at 05:49 AM.
    **** OK....again.....you DAMP vibrations with elastic material.......you DAMPEN vibration like anything else....with a hose ****
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  13. 03-16-2008, 06:19 AM #13
    Freakingstang
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    Quote Originally Posted by PES+ View Post
    I can't swear to it but I think the early 2071s run here around 3/4 lo and close to the same on the hi


    I was thinking 1/2-3/4 on the low and about 3/4 on the high.....so you are probably right on the money!
    -Steve
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  14. 03-16-2008, 06:57 AM #14
    PES+
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    Look here sir

    Freak....I have told you before I can only bribe one member at a time and koga is the current...

    Please take a number
    **** OK....again.....you DAMP vibrations with elastic material.......you DAMPEN vibration like anything else....with a hose ****
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  15. 03-16-2008, 02:31 PM #15
    Ray Bennett
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    Thanks again for all the help. Just to be extra safe I put my tach on it. I really surprised myself at how good I tuned it by ear. Idle was 2600 to 2700 and just under 13000 WOT. Just for safty I opened the L to get the idle just under 2500 wich was not even a 1/16th turn. I will recheck it after a day of cutting. I also pulled the muffler and the piston looks like new. I like this saw but compared to Stihl's these mufflers are a to put back on. Im gona leave the Carb alone unless like you say my idle gets inconsistent or the saw runs poorly.
    STIHL'S 290 440 460 660 (the reason my left arm is bigger than my right), Jonsered 930 (RIP). 2071
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