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Thread: Stihl 026 Starting Problems

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    Stihl 026 Starting Problems

    Hi, I have been stripping saws and rebuilding them for a few years now, usually 08s and the 021 023 025 range and selling them through the local paper. I was given a 026 in px just after christmas and the guy said it would not start, it took me about 30 pulls to get it going, then once warm it would start first pull every time. next day it did exactly the same 30 pulls then ran all day. I decided to strip it and rebuild, all inpulse hose, fuel line, inlet manifold look fine, piston and cylinder are in great shape, re-built it with new gasket set, and new crank seals. Now fully rebuilt and my hopes high filled with petrol and low and behold the same thing 20 pulls to get it going. I am used to 2 pulls on full choke than 1 pull on half choke and the saw is running. Does any one have any ideas as i am knocking on a bit and the arms cant take it any more.

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    Quote Originally Posted by jamie101 View Post
    Hi, I have been stripping saws and rebuilding them for a few years now, usually 08s and the 021 023 025 range and selling them through the local paper. I was given a 026 in px just after christmas and the guy said it would not start, it took me about 30 pulls to get it going, then once warm it would start first pull every time. next day it did exactly the same 30 pulls then ran all day. I decided to strip it and rebuild, all inpulse hose, fuel line, inlet manifold look fine, piston and cylinder are in great shape, re-built it with new gasket set, and new crank seals. Now fully rebuilt and my hopes high filled with petrol and low and behold the same thing 20 pulls to get it going. I am used to 2 pulls on full choke than 1 pull on half choke and the saw is running. Does any one have any ideas as i am knocking on a bit and the arms cant take it any more.
    Try richening up the L even an 1/8 to 1/4 turn out seems to make a huge difference!
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    Quote Originally Posted by scotclayshooter View Post
    Try richening up the L even an 1/8 to 1/4 turn out seems to make a huge difference!
    Welcome to AS!
    + 1 and if that doesn't work try 1/2 turn out. Chokes don't work good when adjuster to lean. Steve

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    PES+'s Avatar
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    Make sure your choke plate in the air filter is closing completely

    Those chokes like to screw up
    **** OK....again.....you DAMP vibrations with elastic material.......you DAMPEN vibration like anything else....with a hose ****

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    not sure if this is possible, but can the fuel line pull fuel back out of the carb when stored?

    Had that on a small engine with tank below pump/carb. fine air leak, or might have been pump checks leaking. that was an engine with separate pulse pump from the carb though...

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    Quote Originally Posted by PES+ View Post
    Make sure your choke plate in the air filter is closing completely

    Those chokes like to screw up
    +1 again, seems like there are a lot of hard starting 026 260 saws. Steve

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    I've had carbs in the 026 that take as much as a turn and a half on the L jet to start and idle properly.

    I work on so many of these saws that I keep extra carbs on hand; and, when I encounter the problem you have, I just pop in another carb, to quickly eliminate that as a problem. Saves lots of time. If this works, then you can try a repair kit; and, sometimes that doesn't work. Then soak it over night in carb cleaner and if that doesn't work, then I donate it to the 'round file'.
    Stihl 026
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    AS West Tex suggests - try another carb. If that doen't help -a full pressure and vac test is in order. if you need another carb, pm Bcorradi - I believe he has some..



    One thing though - once the saw is started, does it run correctly? If it runs, accelerates and idles well (set L a 1/4 turn richer than peak, then turn up LA slightly to compensate), there's nothing wrong with your carb. If your L is exssessive rich for decent idle and accelarate, that's an idicator of an airleak.
    Any sufficiently advanced technology is indistinguishable from magic."
    --Arthur C. Clarke,

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    I have tried adjusting the carb, no luck. I believe there are parts missing from the air filter. The air filter splits in half and there is a hole at one end that is near a lever on the control rod, on/off mechanism. when you put full choke on, this lever points up and looks like it should move something.

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    Dan Forsh's Avatar
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    I think the choke flap is an integral part of the air filter on that one. The lever you're talking about should act on the choke flap. Are you missing this then?
    Opinion is no substitute for experience.

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    The choke flap is missing then...you need another filter
    **** OK....again.....you DAMP vibrations with elastic material.......you DAMPEN vibration like anything else....with a hose ****

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    see it on here

    Opinion is no substitute for experience.

    Stihl FS 360
    Oleo-Mac 950F Super
    Stihl TS360's, Stihl TS350's
    Stihl 041AV
    Stihl FS66
    Stihl Contra
    Stihl TS 400
    Stihl TS 410 x 2
    Stihl TS 460
    Stihl 026 pro
    Stihl 026
    Stihl 024
    Stihl 038av
    ICS 633GC
    New additions
    Stihl MS170
    Stihl MS211
    Stihl 044

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    Many thanks to you all, I am missing the choke shutter. A new one of these and this should be the end of my problem.
    Many thanks again.

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    Quote Originally Posted by PES+ View Post
    The choke flap is missing then...you need another filter
    or just the choke flap...
    Any sufficiently advanced technology is indistinguishable from magic."
    --Arthur C. Clarke,

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    New complete filter fitted today, saw fired up like a good un and runs spot on.
    Many thanks again.

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