McCulloch Timber Bear

**Austin1** · 09-05-2008, 10:43 AM

Originally Posted by romeo

Couldn't tell you, they like running a little on the rich side though, almost like a reed motor but not as bad. They run a little more on torque and less on chain speed than the newer saws.

+1 reading my plug say's it is rich but the saw runs so good that way.

**kgb007stb** · 09-09-2008, 08:57 AM

That’s good to know, I am wondering why MCculloch omitted this fact from the manual. I have not used one of these in ten years, so adjusting in the beginning by the feel of the cut won’t do any good. Just wanted to make sure that I would not adjust it to a speed which would wreck the motor.

**mengo45** · 10-10-2008, 10:57 PM

My Dad just gave me the Timber Bear 60013414 and I was wondering after reading this whole thread if someone did have a manual electronic or otherwise that I could get ahold of. I am wanting to fix this one up and get it running...my first free vintage chainsaw.
Thanks

**046** · 10-11-2008, 01:59 AM

timberbear was my first "big" saw...

thought it was a bear of a saw! really liked that saw... until someone decided they needed it more than me...

ended up getting a 034super to replace ... so it ended up well...

**Scooterbum** · 10-11-2008, 03:26 AM

Originally Posted by mengo45

My Dad just gave me the Timber Bear 60013414 and I was wondering after reading this whole thread if someone did have a manual electronic or otherwise that I could get ahold of. I am wanting to fix this one up and get it running...my first free vintage chainsaw.
Thanks

Send me a PM with your email address.

**Wood Doctor** · 10-11-2008, 04:33 AM

Gary sold my old saw for $220?

I may never speak to him again.

Thanks for the info, Gary. I didn't realize it was still worth that much.

**mengo45** · 10-17-2008, 08:58 PM

I have found the manual oiler on the Timber Bear, is that to prime an automatic oiler or is it the only way to oil the bar. If so how often do you need to manually pump it while cutting?
thanks for helping the rookie,
Mengo45

**superfire** · 10-17-2008, 09:05 PM

most are auto oiler,manual is for extra oil in really bad conditions usually it is rarely used. got picts

**Justsaws** · 10-17-2008, 09:11 PM

Originally Posted by mengo45

I have found the manual oiler on the Timber Bear, is that to prime an automatic oiler or is it the only way to oil the bar. If so how often do you need to manually pump it while cutting?
thanks for helping the rookie,
Mengo45

It is for priming before start up and as back up while running. Timber Bears have a automatic oiler under the top cover in front of the carb box. They operate of of crank case pressure and are getting old so that sometimes the diaphagms do not work very well. They are adjustable oilers and can be opened up for better flow. A good cleaning of the oiler openings can also improve things.

**mengo45** · 10-17-2008, 09:12 PM

I can get some picts up soon, it was loaded with bad gas. We were able to get it started by using carb cleaner until we were pulling fresh fuel. Starts and runs good now. Going to cut some firewood to sell just for fun. Thanks for the info on the oiler, it isn't oiling well so I will try opening it up tomorrow and seeing if that helps.

mengo45

**Justsaws** · 10-17-2008, 09:44 PM

Originally Posted by mengo45

I can get some picts up soon, it was loaded with bad gas. We were able to get it started by using carb cleaner until we were pulling fresh fuel. Starts and runs good now. Going to cut some firewood to sell just for fun. Thanks for the info on the oiler, it isn't oiling well so I will try opening it up tomorrow and seeing if that helps.

mengo45

Take off top cover and as you are looking down at the saw the oiler is the white plastic piece in front of the carb. box. Near the middle of the white plastic oiler is a black slotted hex screw. Turn screw counter-clock wise to increase oil flow. The screw is long but there is no need to turn it out past 9/16" from where the screw goes into the white plastic.

If you are using super thick extra tacky ultra modern oil(name brand) you also might need to thin it down with a solvent(mineral spirits) for the first tank especially if the saw has sat for a long time. 30wt motor oil is about the right consistency until the oiler is cleaned out and the parts are moving freely again.

**SawGarage** · 03-17-2010, 01:00 AM

For reviving an old post...I might get shot, or chased by a pack of chainsaw-wielding-men.

But I have good reason..

I just read through the 4 pages.

1st off, WOW! he stole that saw for 25, esp with the case! those cases go for 50+

2ndly, I just picked up my 1st PM605/610 tonite... I paid $20 for it, but the chain oiler is leaking bad, it seems to be missing part of the muffler cover (weird, as I thought it was one piece that covered both the clutch and muffler, but doesn't seem this way on this saw.) and it supposedly overheats (Not sure, have yet to run it.)

It is a Timberbear, with only a 16" bar...

anyone know the specifics of the Super Pro Mac and the Pro Mac, and why they eliminated the Decomp. valve??

Thanks all!!!

PS. I've done a lot of lurking, but have finally joined!!

**lawnmowertech37** · 03-17-2010, 06:05 AM

Originally Posted by GR40RCapri

For reviving an old post...I might get shot, or chased by a pack of chainsaw-wielding-men.

But I have good reason..

I just read through the 4 pages.

1st off, WOW! he stole that saw for 25, esp with the case! those cases go for 50+

2ndly, I just picked up my 1st PM605/610 tonite... I paid $20 for it, but the chain oiler is leaking bad, it seems to be missing part of the muffler cover (weird, as I thought it was one piece that covered both the clutch and muffler, but doesn't seem this way on this saw.) and it supposedly overheats (Not sure, have yet to run it.)

It is a Timberbear, with only a 16" bar...

anyone know the specifics of the Super Pro Mac and the Pro Mac, and why they eliminated the Decomp. valve??

Thanks all!!!

PS. I've done a lot of lurking, but have finally joined!!

Don't feel bad about reviving a old post ought to see the one i did on another site 4 years later lol

**scotvl** · 03-17-2010, 06:31 AM

Ive got a timbre bear that I bought at meijer for $150.00 in 1992. I loved that saw heated my first house for 8 years on nothing but wood with that saw and a 8lb maul. Started on second pull and had a great burble at idle. I quit using it 10 years ago after the pull start housing riped right off the saw one day. After reading this I think Im going to dig her out of the shed and find a way to mount the starter back on.

**Urbicide** · 03-17-2010, 06:35 AM

GR, check the cooling fins to make sure that they are not blocked up with bar oil, saw dust, mud dauber nests, spider webs, etc. A carburetor that is adjusted too lean on the high speed needle will cause a saw to run hot. (The incoming fuel charge from the carburetor actually does a good sized portion of the engine cooling). Check the spark plug & make sure that it is the one called for by the manufacture, or the plugs equivalent replacement.