Thread: Saw chain recomendations

Looks like I'm going to break down and buy some new bars and chains
Been running Oregon chisel chains but I see alot of new choices to pick from.
Been reading here for awile about the debates between Oregon nd Stihll and I dont want to start any p$$sing matches with anyone, like to just have some thoughts and opinions please. Thanks.

Poulan 4000
Poulan 3700
Poulan 3400
Poulan 245A
Several poulan 25d's
Homelite super XL 12
In the midwest mostly hardwoods for firewood, not always clean but we try.
Thanks.

Originally Posted by Mr Goodwrench

Looks like I'm going to break down and buy some new bars and chains
Been running Oregon chisel chains but I see alot of new choices to pick from.
Been reading here for awile about the debates between Oregon nd Stihll and I dont want to start any p$$sing matches with anyone, like to just have some thoughts and opinions please. Thanks.

Poulan 4000
Poulan 3700
Poulan 3400
Poulan 245A
Several poulan 25d's
Homelite super XL 12
In the midwest mostly hardwoods for firewood, not always clean but we try.
Thanks.

I use Oregon and Carleton. I've had pretty good luck. I cut hardwood almost exclusively (a little Popple).

Get the Bailey's Woodsman Pro (Carlton) If you order several bars and chains, even with shipping you can't beat their price. I like Carlton, almost as good as Stihl, lots cheaper and easier to file.

I like Carlton chain and have used it for over 25 years. I have tried a few others but in my opinion the Stihl chains are more difficult to file, not because they are hard but because they are different than the Carlton I am used to.

If you get Carlton chain, be sure to get the File-O-Plate. I think it is a really easy tool to use and gives excellent results. My first File-O-Plate has been in use for more than 25 years and is still first rate. If you don't lose one it will last a life time.

Does anyone know if the Carlton File-O-Plate works with the Woodsman Pro chain?

Mark

Yep, Woodsman = Carlton. Good stuff.

I have used Laser Chipper, Semi Chisel, and Chisel Chains (I think someone told me a while back that Windsor made them, but don't quote me), Oregon, Windsor, and I have also used Carlton's
A-1 x 3/8 Pitch x 0.050 Gauge x 60 Links Semi Chisel Chains.
I like how the Carlton Cuts, and keeps an edge a little bit longer, between Sharpenings. I mostly cut Ash, and Soft Maple, that I skid out of the Bush, and they get kind of Dirty, while I skid them out, with my Tractor.
I also found that the Carlton Chains are a little bit cheaper. The last Chains I have ordered are Carlton's A-1 x 3/8 Pitch x 0.050 Gauge x 66 Links Semi Chesil Chains for $16.93 each.
It also depends on what you want the Chains for, what type of wood you are cutting, and the Conditions of the wood you are Cutting. Is it Skidded, or cut where the tree drops. What I like to do, is get the best price, and go from there.
I have used Oregon, Windsor, and GB Bars. I have (2) Windsor 16" Bars, one was bought 40 years ago with my Mac 10-10 Automatic, and the other one was bought 35 years ago, with my Pro Mac 60, and they were the Original Guide Bars when the Saws were bought by my Great Uncle. Both have had the Sprocket Nose replaced once each, and have cut a ton of Fire Wood.
The Oregon I have on my Mac 1-10, and my Step Sons
Pro Mac 10-10, are laminated Bars, and they are a lot cheaper than the Pro Bars.
Now what I have found about Bars, is How you use, and Look After the Bars. Also a lot is how well you sharpen your Chain. I've seen guys sharpen their Chains Free Hand, and Think that they are doing a Great Job of Sharpening them, and doing a Pi$$ Poor Job of it, and wind up with one side with a different Pitch and Angle of the Cutter of one side then the other, causing the Chain to lean heavily to one side of the Bar, and wearing down one Rail faster than the Other. A properly Sharpen Chain, will prolong life to your Bar.
Never take the Bar off the Chain Saw, and Clean the Burs off the Edges of Rails of the Bar. Never check to see if the Bar is Square, and True. Never Clean out the Trough of the Bar, where the Driver Tangs run in. Never turn the Bar over in between Sharpenings, for even Wear of the Top, and Bottom of the Bar. All big factors in giving a Bar, and Bottom of the Connecting Links of the Chain a longer wear life, for both Components.
All factors that needed to be looked at prior to buying. Do you cut Professionally, Cut Fire Wood for your Self, and to sell the odd Cord of wood? If for Occasional Use, all you need is a Laminated Bar, with a Sprocket Nose.
I mainly use my Saws to cut Fire Wood for myself, and sell the Odd Cord of Fire Wood. It all depends on all these Factors like I have tried to explain, that you need to judge accordingly before you undertake before you buy any Chains, or Bars. If you cut in Dirty conditions like I do, Semi Chesil is what you should look at. If your wood is clean when you are cutting, Chisel should be OK. I've used all three, and I prefer Semi Chesil Chains, but this is my opinion. I hope this helps you out. Good Luck. Bruce.

Thanks guys can anyone post a link to baileys/carlton?

Look up young man look up

4th from the top on the 2nd

Baileys is a sponsor, just move your pointer to the flashing "Bailey's Discount Arborist Supplies" logo above and you'll be there.

Mark

Originally Posted by Bruce Hopf

...A properly Sharpen Chain, will prolong life to your Bar.
Never take the Bar off the Chain Saw, and Clean the Burs off the Edges of Rails of the Bar. Never check to see if the Bar is Square, and True. Never Clean out the Trough of the Bar, where the Driver Tangs run in. Never turn the Bar over in between Sharpenings, for even Wear of the Top, and Bottom of the Bar. All big factors in giving a Bar, and Bottom of the Connecting Links of the Chain a longer wear life, for both Components... I hope this helps you out. Good Luck. Bruce.

Bruce

please elaborate a little more on why you recommend:

- not flipping bar over between sharpening
- not trueing upp or squaring up bar rails
- not cleaning out the bar trough

Thanks,

JQ

Hey Bruce, Laser used to be Windsor but has switched to Carlton. That is what I usually run when I am back home in PA, cutterschoice is a short drive into town.

I like Carlton, but I am pretty impressed with the Oregon LGX. I run whatever I can find the cheapest. Carlton has a longer top plate, so presumably it will last longer, but it depends on conditions.

Stihl all the way. Ive tried Oregon chains in the past and they dont stay sharp as long as do Stihl chains and they stretch a lot more.
Stihl chain, Stihl bar and Stihl powerhead. IMO, thats the only way to go.

Most here know my opinion.

What would be nice to hear about, with so much interest in chain this year. (nice brake from the usall 'bar oil' threads we see about now)

Is someone, the newer and greener the better, one saw one bar preferred.

Buy a loop of WP (Carlton) Oregon and Stihl.

Buy the 3 loops in the most comparable cutter they could get and offer there unbiased opinion.

Someone take this idea and run with it, make sure to supply your self with some good new files or I can tell you right now Stihl chain will fall back on your list.

Originally Posted by PlantBiologist

Hey Bruce, Laser used to be Windsor but has switched to Carlton. That is what I usually run when I am back home in PA, cutterschoice is a short drive into town.

I like Carlton, but I am pretty impressed with the Oregon LGX. I run whatever I can find the cheapest. Carlton has a longer top plate, so presumably it will last longer, but it depends on conditions.

I have used one current Windsor chain (.050, 56DL, .325, semi-chisel) - pure junk, and even came with one unground cutter - easy fix, as it was really soft and easy to file...........

No wonder it lost the edge pretty soon.....

Originally Posted by Jonny Quest

Bruce

please elaborate a little more on why you recommend:

- not flipping bar over between sharpening
- not trueing upp or squaring up bar rails
- not cleaning out the bar trough

Thanks,

JQ

I think he likes the movie "1941"