Removing Stihl Limiter Caps

**sarge14** · 02-26-2009, 04:57 PM

Just thought I'd pass this on. The limiter cap on the High set screw of my MS460 has kept me from 4 stroking the saw during adjustment. Also, the saw had a dead spot when going from idle to full throttle and the Low set screw wouldn't take it out. After several adjustments the dead spot still showed up. I checked the impulse/fuel line and the carb for leaks, with everything checking out AOK.

Last week, I talked to a friend of mine who is a mechanic at our local Stihl dealership and he told me that he has had this type of problem before and the best thing to do is take out the limiter caps so the saw could be adjusted right. He said the best way he found to remove the caps is to remove the carb and take a coarse drywall screw and screw it down into the red limter cap (Either Low or High). He then told me to take a pair of pliers and pull the screw out and the cap would follow. He said to repeat this for the other cap.

Well tonight I tried it and it worked perfect. A small part of the plastic was left inside, but after removing the set screws and with the help of a small screwdriver, I got the rest of the caps out.

I readjusted the carb and it works like a brand new one. I searched the threads for this type of removal but couldn't find anything. Hope this helps someone with a problem like mine.

**2000ssm6** · 02-26-2009, 05:01 PM

Good info but you need to replace the caps when it's tuned, the caps help keep the screws from walking out.

**sarge14** · 02-26-2009, 05:06 PM

Originally Posted by 2000ssm6

Good info but you need to replace the caps when it's tuned, the caps help keep the screws from walking out.

Are the screws known to walk out on this or other Stihl models?

**2000ssm6** · 02-26-2009, 05:21 PM

Originally Posted by sarge14

Are the screws known to walk out on this or other Stihl models?

The older models had a spring behind the screw to keep 'em steady. You may not ever have a problem with yours coming out but the caps are only a quarter or two each. Cut off the big tab so you can adjust the screws without having to pull the caps back out.

**sarge14** · 02-26-2009, 05:25 PM

Originally Posted by 2000ssm6

The older models had a spring behind the screw to keep 'em steady. You may not ever have a problem with yours coming out but the caps are only a quarter or two each. Cut off the big tab so you can adjust the screws without having to pull the caps back out.

Thanks for the info!

**ironman_gq** · 02-26-2009, 06:19 PM

I just used a pick. the tab on the cap lines up with a slot in the carb body and they slide out most of the way then pull em all the way out with pliers. I was able to leave my carb on and had em out in less than 5 minutes

**SCOOTER** · 02-26-2009, 06:51 PM

I use a small crochet hook,, and just pull them out,, cut off the tabs with an exacto knife and push them back in.. no problem at all.. that's the way I do it and works like a charm

**flashpuppy** · 02-26-2009, 06:53 PM

I'm not real familiar with the Stihl limiter caps. Does anyone have a pic so I can get a better understanding of this?

**Brian VT** · 02-26-2009, 07:06 PM

I just cut the tabs off with a razor knife. Why pull them ?

Before:

**Lakeside53** · 02-26-2009, 07:09 PM

Different carb... those you can trim without removal.. The later HD series you cannot.

**Orange Hill** · 02-26-2009, 07:14 PM

Originally Posted by Brian VT

I just cut the tabs off with a razor knife. Why pull them ?

Before:

The newer Stihl carbs have different caps then you have pictured. They are recessed into collars and have to be turned fully clock wise to line up the tab with the channel cut into the collars before they can be pulled.

**Brian VT** · 02-26-2009, 07:18 PM

My bad. Sorry. I guess the EPA caught on and made it tougher. SOBs.
How long before they mandate fixed jetting and nothing will run right ?
Fuel injected, computerized, catalytic convertered hand tools ? Those sound affordable and light weight.

**matt9923** · 08-05-2009, 06:08 AM

Originally Posted by Brian VT

My bad. Sorry. I guess the EPA caught on and made it tougher. SOBs.
How long before they mandate fixed jetting and nothing will run right ?
Fuel injected, computerized, catalytic convertered hand tools ? Those sound affordable and light weight.

I know this is old but just what i was looking for.

If they do that idk what will do.
Fixed jet carbs.. i have to work with those hunks of crap all day on these craftsman lawnmowers.

**angelo c** · 08-05-2009, 06:19 AM

Originally Posted by matt9923

I know this is old but just what i was looking for.

If they do that idk what will do.
Fixed jet carbs.. i have to work with those hunks of crap all day on these craftsman lawnmowers.

I have a question.
If the limiter caps really cause the adjustments to not "walk around" does it really matter. I think if your going to use a saw you should need to be able to tune it almost as often as you adjust the chain. the fuel and conditions vary enough to support my thinking right?. I don't think setting mixture and Idle speeds is a "set and forget" thing. Kind of like chain sharpening I guess, something you need to learn how to do right eventually.

**mwood1986** · 11-30-2009, 01:11 AM

Thought I'd tag these pics to this thread to help a little I didn't remove my carb either and just used a screw I had in arms reach

Before I started

After I took out the rubber grommet which comes right out

Here I just put a drywall screw in it a couple turns which grabbed the cap enough to turn it and line up the groove so I could pull the cap out

Here I pulled it about halfway out with a little effort (sawdust kinda hung it up a bit)

Same with the other side

And the final product, the little metal insert that held the caps in place came out with the second cap so I just tapped it back in as a screwdriver guide more than anything.

Hope this helps someone out