Replacing old cable with a cobra system???

**OutOnaLimb** · 03-24-2004, 06:57 PM

I have a customer that I did some canopy reduction for yesterday that had a huge silver maple in her tiny little down town back yard. The tree is approx. 72" bdh and has an existing cable in it supporting one leader that goes over into her neighbors yard. When I first spotted the cable I right away saw that it was wayyyy to low, and when I got up there to see it, it was strung as tight as a guitar string. The cable is installed via eye bolts drilled through the tree with a 2" washer and nut holding it to the leader. I have sold the home owner on the idea that proper, dynamic cabeling is the way to go and I will be installing a cobra system for her, I would just like some insight on what precations I need to take before installing the cobra system and removing the static cable. I dont have any photos now, but I will be back to her house on friday and will get some for ya'll then.

Kenn

:Monkey:

**MasterBlaster** · 03-24-2004, 07:00 PM

I dunno if I would remove the existing cable...

Leave it be, and work around it.

**John Paul Sanborn** · 03-24-2004, 07:03 PM

I'm with butch. If there is any tension in the cabels, leave them be. Adding new above may be a good idea, but the tree has adapted to having the support of the cables and who knows what will happen if the support is released.

**NickfromWI** · 03-24-2004, 07:07 PM

I would put in the cobra first, then remove the cable. You might have to guess how much the canopy would "open up" when the cable is removed, then allow for that in the cobra installation.

Don't touch the bolts...no sense opening up any more holes in the tree if not needed.

Sounds like it could be scary, but it seems like you're doing the right thing.

I saw a tree in Oshkosh that was "cabled." It was super low in a huge norway maple. They used chain instead of cable. They had j-lags on each side and they were connected by 5 links of a very strong/stout chain. Five links. That should give you an idea of how far down it was. Had they gone up 30 feet, they mighta had a good 15' spread to put in a good cable.

Sad thing was it looked real professional-like. Seemed like the installers had good intentions...just needed a littel guidance and education.

love
nick

**NickfromWI** · 03-24-2004, 07:08 PM

If you do remove the cable, make sure there's no tension on it when you cut!

**MasterBlaster** · 03-24-2004, 07:09 PM

How do ya do that?

**John Paul Sanborn** · 03-24-2004, 07:15 PM

Originally posted by MasterBlaster

How do ya do that?

come-a-long to ratchet off the tension and let it out on the new system easily.

I would leave that for someone who had a better idea as to what cable systems do.

If you do cut it out, like Nick said, leave the hardwear, and try to leave some cable sticking out so if someone removes the trere 15 years from now they can see the metal.

I know guys who will hit them with spraypaint too, and anytime the find sharp metal in a tree.

**OutOnaLimb** · 03-24-2004, 07:26 PM

The existing system hasnt been installed for long, The home owner bought the home 4 years ago, and from looking at it I dont think that it has been in the tree for more than maybe 6 years. The cambium has not even started to seal around the washers and eye bolts if the home owner had not told me that it has been there for at least 4 years , I would think that it it was installed even more recently. But right off the bat I knew that it was installed wayyyyyy to low. and wayyyyyyy to tight.

Kenn:Monkey:

**John Paul Sanborn** · 03-24-2004, 07:32 PM

SOunds more like an install for a failsafe to support the union.

I'm not fond ong single leg systems for this, two leg is much better.

What does the crotch look like? Or are those pic's forthcoming?

**Lumberjack** · 03-24-2004, 07:46 PM

I have been talkin to Kenn . One thing I would reccommend is to tip tie the limb and see how much lift it takes to take the tension off the cable.

Lord, hurry up with your eating before I can call you buttercup from gettin fat

!!

**MasterBlaster** · 03-24-2004, 07:53 PM

Originally posted by Lumberjack
I have been talkin to Kenn . One thing I would reccommend is to tip tie the limb and see how much lift it takes to take the tension off the cable.

I doubt ANY weight will come off of the cable, if its as tight as I think it is.

**Lumberjack** · 03-24-2004, 07:59 PM

Originally posted by MasterBlaster

I doubt ANY weight will come off of the cable, if its as tight as I think it is.

That is what I was thinking. Until he/ I post the pic, then we cant say for sure. But if he cant get the weight off the cable, then it should be left in place.

**OutOnaLimb** · 03-24-2004, 08:05 PM

I can say with a reasonable bit of certainty that the system hasnt been in the tree long enough that I wont be able to get all the old hardware out. Like JPS said I think it was a failsafe, there is no included bark in the crotch and other than the fact the the tree appears to be healthy, (after I have reduced weight on the main leaders and removed decaying leaders) The home owner is just conserned with the size of the tree and the close quarters. I already have a cambistat application in the works on this monster, but the home owner would like a little more piece of mind in this issue. I will have some pics for you guys this weekend. I really do need to get a digital camera. LOL

Kenn:Monkey:

**John Paul Sanborn** · 03-25-2004, 06:06 AM

Freddie B. up in the Boulder area does a lot of crown reductions on those trees due to the snow load issues you all have.

**Kneejerk Bombas** · 03-25-2004, 07:00 AM

Originally posted by Lumberjack
That is what I was thinking. Until he/ I post the pic, then we cant say for sure. But if he cant get the weight off the cable, then it should be left in place.

If you can't get the weight off to remove an improperly installed cable system, you probably don't have the tools or know how to install one properly either.

Then you say the top is dying, sounds like there are other things to worry about other than the cable...