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Thread: ropeshield

  1. 06-25-2012, 06:00 PM #1
    TreeAce
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    ropeshield

    Anyone use this thing?
    Tree Stuff - RopeShield Installation Aid

    It looks like it would work. Maybe
    I was dead wooding a bunch of trees the other day and was setting lines for SRT and was getting pissed. I have noticed that tieing the throw line to a tight eye def helps but even then I was having trouble. Its enough to make me insane. If the line woulda set the first time I hit what appeared to be the perfect spot, I bet i woulda shaved 10-15 minutes per tree. So if it works I have no problem paying 50 bucks.
    115. My only guarantee is that you will still go away confused,
    but at a much higher level.

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  2. 06-25-2012, 06:14 PM #2
    2treeornot2tree
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    You could probably make one for a whole lot less. About 20 mins and a lathe would be all you would need.
    Stihl MS880, MS460, MS361, MS310, MS201t, MS192t x 2, HT101, HT131
    01 Cat 236 loader
    02 Toro Dingo TX425 mini loader
    85 Morbark 200
    98 Gmc Altec 55'
    05 Carlton SP8018 TRX
    GCRS
    Ropetek Wraptor
    Crap loads of ropes and rigging gear.

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  3. 06-25-2012, 06:36 PM #3
    TreeAce
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    I have no problem with the price if I knew it would work.
    115. My only guarantee is that you will still go away confused,
    but at a much higher level.

    www.TreeAce.com
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  4. 06-25-2012, 06:45 PM #4
    superjunior
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    wonder if the backside of that thing might catch up if ya gotta do a little flipping? seems like a good idea tho
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  5. 06-25-2012, 07:19 PM #5
    deevo
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    Quote Originally Posted by TreeAce View Post
    Anyone use this thing?
    Tree Stuff - RopeShield Installation Aid

    It looks like it would work. Maybe
    I was dead wooding a bunch of trees the other day and was setting lines for SRT and was getting pissed. I have noticed that tieing the throw line to a tight eye def helps but even then I was having trouble. Its enough to make me insane. If the line woulda set the first time I hit what appeared to be the perfect spot, I bet i woulda shaved 10-15 minutes per tree. So if it works I have no problem paying 50 bucks.
    He is a member here, Treepedo, I met him at the TCIA expo, good guy. Canadian as well!
    ISA Certified Arborist-ON-1661A
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  6. 06-25-2012, 07:26 PM #6
    mattfr12
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    Here's a full picture of it, it works pretty well. There is an internal weight that you remove after you shoot it. and you fish your 1/2 line through it the shield just keeps it from getting snagged. it does go through crotches a lot better than a standard throw weight. a tad on the pricey side tho.

    Last edited by mattfr12; 06-25-2012 at 07:44 PM.
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  7. 06-26-2012, 05:23 AM #7
    imagineero
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    Is your problem getting the throwbag stuck, or not being able to pull the rope back through a tight crotch? Or both?

    When pulling back through tight crotches, I tie the throw line onto my rope with a clove hitch about 3-4" from the end, then a half hitch about 1 1/2" from the end, and another half hitch right at the very end. If you take a minute to tension the half hitches and get the last one set right at the very end of the rope it goes a lot better. If that last half hitch is even 1/2" from the end it causes problems.

    Shaun
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  8. 06-26-2012, 05:33 PM #8
    TreeAce
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    Quote Originally Posted by imagineero View Post
    Is your problem getting the throwbag stuck, or not being able to pull the rope back through a tight crotch? Or both?

    When pulling back through tight crotches, I tie the throw line onto my rope with a clove hitch about 3-4" from the end, then a half hitch about 1 1/2" from the end, and another half hitch right at the very end. If you take a minute to tension the half hitches and get the last one set right at the very end of the rope it goes a lot better. If that last half hitch is even 1/2" from the end it causes problems.

    Shaun
    The part thats killing me is getting the rope to come through. I tie the throw line to the rope exactly as you described. Also being sure to get that last half hitch right on the very end of the rope. Just seems like one sucker is enough to make it a huge PITA. I think I may give that thing a try.
    115. My only guarantee is that you will still go away confused,
    but at a much higher level.

    www.TreeAce.com
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  9. 06-26-2012, 05:48 PM #9
    mattfr12
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    Quote Originally Posted by TreeAce View Post
    The part thats killing me is getting the rope to come through. I tie the throw line to the rope exactly as you described. Also being sure to get that last half hitch right on the very end of the rope. Just seems like one sucker is enough to make it a huge PITA. I think I may give that thing a try.
    It works very well get the whole kit. That thing is like an ICBM the big shot will really throw it.


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  10. 06-26-2012, 06:18 PM #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by mattfr12 View Post
    It works very well get the whole kit. That thing is like an ICBM the big shot will really throw it.


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    I wasnt really planning on getting the whole shebang like you have but maybe? Does it richochet bad?
    115. My only guarantee is that you will still go away confused,
    but at a much higher level.

    www.TreeAce.com
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  11. 06-26-2012, 07:20 PM #11
    mattfr12
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    Quote Originally Posted by TreeAce View Post
    I wasnt really planning on getting the whole shebang like you have but maybe? Does it richochet bad?
    Ya it can bounce off of something. i wouldn't want to shoot it towards someones house it will definitely take out a window. It has some cool features watch his videos on YouTube.
    Last edited by mattfr12; 06-26-2012 at 09:03 PM.
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  12. 06-27-2012, 04:39 AM #12
    imagineero
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    There's a couple of other tricks I use for getting rope through tight places, but you probably know them already. One is that I try to get as far away from the tree as possible with the pull line, and in extreme cases send a groundie as far out the other side as possible with the rope. This way you're pulling sideways rather than up and down. The groundie can whip the rope sometimes too. This only works with tall trees without much canopy low down obviously.

    The second one I learnt from another tree guy a ways back. I don't remove the throw weight from the line. I leave it on, but I tie the clove hitch about 1-1.5 feet in from the throw weight. So the throw weight is hanging down below the rope. As it gets to the crotch, you can sometimes flick the weight and it pulls the rope through. It seems to help quite a bit.

    Shaun
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  13. 06-27-2012, 06:36 PM #13
    TreeAce
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    Quote Originally Posted by imagineero View Post
    There's a couple of other tricks I use for getting rope through tight places, but you probably know them already. One is that I try to get as far away from the tree as possible with the pull line, and in extreme cases send a groundie as far out the other side as possible with the rope. This way you're pulling sideways rather than up and down. The groundie can whip the rope sometimes too. This only works with tall trees without much canopy low down obviously.

    The second one I learnt from another tree guy a ways back. I don't remove the throw weight from the line. I leave it on, but I tie the clove hitch about 1-1.5 feet in from the throw weight. So the throw weight is hanging down below the rope. As it gets to the crotch, you can sometimes flick the weight and it pulls the rope through. It seems to help quite a bit.

    Shaun
    The second suggestion sounds interesting. So you tie the clove hitch to the end of the rope and leave the throw bag on the end of the throw line about a 1ft or so from the clove hitch? I think I understand. I will remember that one. thx
    115. My only guarantee is that you will still go away confused,
    but at a much higher level.

    www.TreeAce.com
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  14. 06-27-2012, 07:10 PM #14
    superjunior
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    Quote Originally Posted by imagineero View Post
    There's a couple of other tricks I use for getting rope through tight places, but you probably know them already. One is that I try to get as far away from the tree as possible with the pull line, and in extreme cases send a groundie as far out the other side as possible with the rope. This way you're pulling sideways rather than up and down. The groundie can whip the rope sometimes too. This only works with tall trees without much canopy low down obviously.

    The second one I learnt from another tree guy a ways back. I don't remove the throw weight from the line. I leave it on, but I tie the clove hitch about 1-1.5 feet in from the throw weight. So the throw weight is hanging down below the rope. As it gets to the crotch, you can sometimes flick the weight and it pulls the rope through. It seems to help quite a bit.

    Shaun
    I use that little trick too. A good little snap will often get the bag right over
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  15. 06-27-2012, 08:35 PM #15
    mattfr12
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    Try the treepedo if your willing to dish out the $$$. It does do what the say. For the kind of green they cost it would be bad to loose one in a tree.


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