New bucket truck techniques

**Tom Dunlap** · 11-18-2002, 07:35 PM

We've started to plan our annual chapter EHAP training here in Minnesota. In addition to the EHAP program we're planning a session on bucket use for pruning. The question came up, wondering if there are any new bucket pruning techniques. Anyone who climbs knows that new climbing gear and techniques are being invented at a dizzying rate. We scratched our heads trying to think of anything new for bucket work.

We know that there are new buckets but that really isn't what we were thinking.

Tom

**Tim Gardner** · 11-18-2002, 08:48 PM

Is there really a need to develop new techniques doing bucket work? It is so different when in a bucket as opposed to climbing. I have done a lot of bucket work and most times there is not a need for a lowering line. The only real technique I know of for bucket trimming is the order in which you make your cuts and learning how to get into the limbs without damaging them. I am very interested in new ideas though.

**Tom Dunlap** · 11-19-2002, 05:59 AM

Tim wrote:

The only real technique I know of for bucket trimming is the order in which you make your cuts and learning how to get into the limbs without damaging them.

Can you elaborate? I'm not a bucket man so I would like to know more about bucket trimming techniques.

One thing that I've picked up from talking with bucket pruners is to not lean out of the bucket to get branches that are out of reach. This leads to back strains and possible injuries. In the worst case, the climber could get flipped out of the bucket.

Tom

**Tim Gardner** · 11-19-2002, 04:27 PM

Tom,

The order to make your cuts means planning your work so that it takes less time. Bucket work is so different than climbing. You have to look at the tree in a completely different way. With a bucket you can plan it so that you can reach more cuts per move. I know in climbing you plan your work but with a bucket you have more positions to place your self in.

A lot of bucket operators just don’t get it. They will make unnecessary cuts to make a hole to get in or just swing over or down into limbs not realizing they are damaging them. You have to utilize the design of the boom. Visualize how you need to enter the top without breaking limbs. Even just a little damage out on the ends will be a big neon sign saying “hacks work” once the leaves die.

As long as you keep the muscles in your back strong you will reduce the chance of strains. Because you are in a bucket you can not always get to every cut. It is dangerous but a little over reaching is necessary at times. A little trick I picked up is to lock one knee and foot against the sides of the bucket. It will keep you from slipping. Always wear a harness and lanyard. If you get one with the dee ring on your back it will not get in your way while working.

Remember to keep the top edge of the bucket just a little above your cuts. This will limit the amount of sawdust feeding into the bucket from your saw. A little debris in the bottom of the bucket is needed to reduce slipping but it can add up fast and raise you too far up to lean on the side of the bucket without the risk of flipping out.

**John Paul Sanborn** · 11-19-2002, 04:43 PM

I've done a lot of winch rigging DWT and speedline work with buckets in the last year. Every job in KC after the ice storms.

It is so easy to move the anchor points around so that you can get good angles.

We have done so much in developing rigging methods for climbing use, now you can do it for bucket boys.

Give Greg Good a call, he just had his old (Dino) bucket rehabed by the MAT-3 people and uses it on most every job with great effect.

Buckets dont buthcer trees, hacks in buckets butche trees.

**Tim Gardner** · 11-19-2002, 04:58 PM

I know this is not on topic but on some removals we would rope a top over so it can be reached from the bucket and cut up and tossed out.

**Dan Flinn** · 11-19-2002, 06:36 PM

I'm with you, Tom, I got my first bucket experience a couple of weeks ago. We rented one for the week.

I did a lot of speed line stuff. I agree with Mr. Sanborn, it's easy to speed line because it's easy to move the anchor.

Dan

How'd my Dad get in here? jps

**NeTree** · 11-19-2002, 09:32 PM

Originally posted by Tim Gardner
A lot of bucket operators just don’t get it. They will make unnecessary cuts to make a hole to get in or just swing over or down into limbs not realizing they are damaging them. You have to utilize the design of the boom. Visualize how you need to enter the top without breaking limbs. Even just a little damage out on the ends will be a big neon sign saying “hacks work” once the leaves die.

That's why I don't prefer those top-handled climbing chainsaws in a bucket, for most things. A stick saw increases your work radius; lets you get alot more work done in less bucket moves. And you can reach deep(er) into the canopy (with the right saw) without the bucket or booms touching anything hard enough to break it. I have 2 that i use in mine, an Echo Power-Pruner when I need or want alot of reach, otherwise the 6 foot air saw. (It's lighter than the hydraulic ones and "my" truck doesn't have high pressure at the bucket anyway). Of course the drawback with the stick saws is less control over heavier pieces, at length.

Erik
erik@netree.org

**Menchhofer** · 11-20-2002, 02:13 PM

Being a climber and bucket operator for many years, I cannot say when pruning a tree that I have ever broken limbs and left holes in the crown "proving to the world that a hacker trimmed this tree."

I am always careful when entering a tree and remain vigilant to avoid breaking limbs. Occassionally there are tight areas to contend with but I still seem to be able to get just about anywhere in the tree. If not, I just reposition the truck.

I enjoy pruning both by climbing and using the bucket. Sometimes climbing is quicker, other times the bucket is faster. Just depends on the situation.

Most rigging applications for climbers are also used in the bucket operation. I use them everyday.