Converted over to 3/8" pitch chain on my MS260 Pro

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mtgrs737

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The guy at the Stihl Dealership asked why I would want to convert over to the 3/8" pitch chain from .325" pitch on my 260, I told him I wanted to be able to swap out with my .031av which also has a 16" bar (which is the truth). He said he hardly ever sells a 3/8' chain and bar for smaller saws like the 260, I believe him as he had a huge stock of .325" pitch Stihl chains on the display. He had a hard time finding the correct small spline 3/8" 7 pin drive sprocket for the 3/8" pitch chain. I hope I am not messing up by trying to standardize on one size chain.

What chain type do you guys like? I will be cutting both green hedge, and soft woods like elm, pine, etc. I am guessing but am thinking about a full chisel non-saftey chain as I am pretty careful when cutting.
 
nice to see a convert

my theory is use all 375 non safety chain an run the saw the way it was not deigned for. 365 and 375 is all my dealers stocks. 325 is a right coast thing:dizzy: :chainsaw: i run full skip round ground chisel chain an a 20" bar on my 260 pro.
 
My 260 has had an 18" bar with 3/8 chain from day one. Never thought twice about changing the pitch. It pulls it fine. I wouldn't worry at all. Especially if you are only running a 16" bar.
 
Mind if I jump in and ask a newbie question about pitch? I have a local friend who is convinced a .325 should be on whatever saw I get...that it cuts better than a 3/8" pitch and is explaining it to me as if it's the width or kerf of the chain....I thought I just read in a book last week the pitch is a measurement from link to link or something along those lines? So what's the advantage/disadvantage of either pitch?
 
Pitch is the distance between any three rivets on the chain, divided by two. Your buddy is referring to the "gauge" of the drive links on the chain. Which is also the width of the kerf in the bar. Gauge is determined by the bar. Pitch is determined by your saws drive sprocket, as well as the sprocket on your bar. Typically, the bigger the pitch, the more power is needed to spin the chain.
 
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I have both 3/8 and .325 for mine (18" bar). I think there is a slight edge on the .325 due to the narrower kerf. It's really splitting hairs on cutting time, but the 3/8 does bog easier. Usually I run .325 full chisel for normal use. The only reason I got the 3/8 set up was so I could run square filed chisel on it occasionally. I haven't found square filed in .325, and it takes FOREVER to convert round to square.
 
...... He had a hard time finding the correct small spline 3/8" 7 pin drive sprocket for the 3/8" pitch chain. ....

The 260 doesn't use the small 7-spline, but the mini one, that is spesific to Stihl - don't ask me how I found that out...:censored:

Based on some "interpolating", I am also pretty sure that .325 is faster than 3/8" on that saw, at least in hardwood - but the differense may be too small to care much about.
 
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Do a search on the subject. It was discussed in depth not too long ago. Also .325 only goes up to 20". If that means anything to you.:greenchainsaw:
 
I went the other way and put a 16" .325 bar and a 9 pin sprocket on my 361. It is wicked fast now. I have never run anything that even comes close.
 
3/8 vs 325

I have a Shindaiwa 416 with a 325 chain, The saw is great except for the 325, PIA to file, no 3/8 sprocket available so the saw usually sets on the shelf. I agree with bluequill56 its splitting hairs for speed and if you throw in the extra time required to file the 325 its a dead heat. The 3/8 stands dirt a little better as well. 3/8 low profile is kinda best of both in small saws. My 2 penny's worth.
 
I was worried that the switch would slow the speed down too much. However I am going to do the muffler mod soon and that should help with powering up the slightly larger chain (I hope).
 
teeth catching on smaller branches is my reason to run .325

.325 gives nicer results in trimming branches compared to 3/8 rough cuts.

speed difference as said splitting hairs


2cent
 
I did it on mine when it was new. I buy my chain in bulk and did not want to have an extra size roll around just for that saw. It cuts and runs just fine. The 260 is a great ground limbing saw. If I am going to buck wood, I grab a bigger saw.
 
Mind if I jump in and ask a newbie question about pitch? I have a local friend who is convinced a .325 should be on whatever saw I get...that it cuts better than a 3/8" pitch and is explaining it to me as if it's the width or kerf of the chain....I thought I just read in a book last week the pitch is a measurement from link to link or something along those lines? So what's the advantage/disadvantage of either pitch?

Slick,

You are correct; "pitch" refers the the 'length' of the links, and "gauge" refers to the 'thickness' of the drive links and the groove of the guide bar. Pitch, gauge, and the number of drive links usually specify what chain will fit your saw.

However, there are chains that have the identical pitch and gauge which cut narrower or shallower kerfs in the wood. Narrow kerf chains, and low profile chains have smaller cutters which remove less wood in each pass, and are designed primarily for smaller or lower power saws.

Husqvarna, Stihl, Oregon, and others all make these chains and each call them something different. If you try to run narrow kerf chain on a standard width bar, or vice versa, you might get it to fit on the saw, but will have lots of trouble in the cut.

Philbert
 
So what do I ask for, narrow kerf? :) I'm just used to wood working...narrow kerf blades really help on table saws etca nd are becoming the norm...seems like the same concept...why cut more wood and eat power when you can slice through a thin cut...
 

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