Stihl 011 atv not oiling chain

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grunewald

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Feb 21, 2009
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St. Hedwig, Tx
Hello everyone. Need a little help, my saw is not oiling the chain. Removed bar & chain, cleaned it, found the oil port, started saw, oil not coming out of port. Blew in port with air compressor, revved up saw, not oil coming out. And yep, it is full of bar & chain oil. This is a auto oil feed on this saw. Sure could use it this weekend, need to cut some mesquite for barbeque. Would appreciate some help. Thanks.
 
1120 series saws (009, 010, 011, and 012) use a pulse operated oiler to lube the chain. This differs from most Stihl saws that use a gear driven oiler. The oiler is a cartridge that is attached into the crankcase of the saw. Before you do anything- including draining the bar oil, remove the exhaust screen from the exhaust outlet and be sure its not clogged with carbon. This got me once and I won't say how long I messed with the oiler before I figured out the real problem. If the exhaust screen is clean (or wasn't there to start with), put it back in. Recheck the oiler function- it often takes 10-20 seconds of running to get the pump primed and functioning. Still no oil output? Drain the bar oil tank and remove the clutch cover, bar, and chain. Set the saw on the bench clutch side up and clean off the area below the bar stud so no debris gets into the soon-to-be-opened oil tank. The oiler is the aluminum cover directly below the bar stud. It is about 1 1/4" round with one flat side. Remove the 3 slot screws that secure it into the crankcase. Gently pry the oiler assembly free of the case- it is about 2" long and has a hose attached to its inner end. Try not to damage the gaskets- usually you can save these. Once the oiler is free of the case, slowly pull it out and be sure its output hose isn't broken. One end of this hose attaches to the nipple on the inner end of the pump, the other end attaches into the crankcase where the bar oil is supposed to come out. It is U-shaped and is easy to replace if nescessary. The hose gets hot and brittle and often just breaks. Remember, these are older saws and rubber products will degrade. If the hose was intact, remove it from the pump and clean the pump off. The pump is easy to disassemble and clean. There is a spring inside it, so watch where it comes from when you remove the pump cover and put it back as it was originally. The pump diaphragm and gaskets rarely fail. You can clean everything and reassemble & test it. Often a thorough cleaning solves the problem. If not, you'll have to replace the diaphragm and gaskets- replace the hose too. I have had mixed results rebuilding these pumps- sometimes they just refuse to work. Check the cost of a new pump before you buy rebuild parts and consider your options. Hopefully a thorough cleaning will solve the problem. Good luck, and welcome to AS.
 
1120 series saws (009, 010, 011, and 012) use a pulse operated oiler to lube the chain. This differs from most Stihl saws that use a gear driven oiler. The oiler is a cartridge that is attached into the crankcase of the saw. Before you do anything- including draining the bar oil, remove the exhaust screen from the exhaust outlet and be sure its not clogged with carbon. This got me once and I won't say how long I messed with the oiler before I figured out the real problem. If the exhaust screen is clean (or wasn't there to start with), put it back in. Recheck the oiler function- it often takes 10-20 seconds of running to get the pump primed and functioning. Still no oil output? Drain the bar oil tank and remove the clutch cover, bar, and chain. Set the saw on the bench clutch side up and clean off the area below the bar stud so no debris gets into the soon-to-be-opened oil tank. The oiler is the aluminum cover directly below the bar stud. It is about 1 1/4" round with one flat side. Remove the 3 slot screws that secure it into the crankcase. Gently pry the oiler assembly free of the case- it is about 2" long and has a hose attached to its inner end. Try not to damage the gaskets- usually you can save these. Once the oiler is free of the case, slowly pull it out and be sure its output hose isn't broken. One end of this hose attaches to the nipple on the inner end of the pump, the other end attaches into the crankcase where the bar oil is supposed to come out. It is U-shaped and is easy to replace if nescessary. The hose gets hot and brittle and often just breaks. Remember, these are older saws and rubber products will degrade. If the hose was intact, remove it from the pump and clean the pump off. The pump is easy to disassemble and clean. There is a spring inside it, so watch where it comes from when you remove the pump cover and put it back as it was originally. The pump diaphragm and gaskets rarely fail. You can clean everything and reassemble & test it. Often a thorough cleaning solves the problem. If not, you'll have to replace the diaphragm and gaskets- replace the hose too. I have had mixed results rebuilding these pumps- sometimes they just refuse to work. Check the cost of a new pump before you buy rebuild parts and consider your options. Hopefully a thorough cleaning will solve the problem. Good luck, and welcome to AS.


Good reply Doc.

I would try my drain, rinse, run on fuel mix method first, it works a lot of the time>

I remove the bar /chain, dump out the oil tank, fill half full with gas mix, shake, dump, repeat, fill halfway again with gas mix and run the saw with
the bar/chain/cover off and watch for results from the oil port. A lot of
the time, this breaks up clogs.

Otherwise, I would carefully take apart and clean as Doc has outlined, just be careful about blowing air, you might make the repair more expensive than need be.........
 
Stihl 011 atv. Must be a new model for mounting on your 4 wheeler...




Just busting your chops, man. Good luck getting the oiler fixed.
 
I have the oposite problem...

Oil is oozing out at a fast rate so I can assume that the pump is working just fine. There's so much oil coming out of the oiling hole that when I rev up the chain saw, I can see oil spraying 6' to 8' feet ahead. Can someone please tell me if there's a restricter or reducer for the oil outlet? I visited my local Stihl dealer and they couldn't find anything in the parts diagram. Any help would be greatly appreciated. My email is bcmchong at hotmail dot com.

Thanks much.
 
Stihldoc's reply is excellent. One more thing, the small orifice that is visible when you have the pump cover removed may be clogged. This is where the vacuum/pressure change of the crankcase pulses the pump diaphragm. I use a little pressure to clear it although it will send it back into the crankcase. Also I have had a few diaphragms wear out ($7.00), much cheaper than a pump assembly ($60.00).
 
Bill B, I think your suggestion that the orfice that operates the diaphram may be stopped up is what my problem is with my Stihl 011atv not oiling. I had recently rebuilt the oil pump and it was working fine until I let it sit in a damp building for several months. How much air pressure do you suppose one might safely use? Is there a danger of blowing out the crankshaft seals? Where should the piston be in order to avoid this? Could I use a small wire to push the crud out of the hole? Thanks. Bob Rooker
 
Bill B, I think your suggestion that the orfice that operates the diaphram may be stopped up is what my problem is with my Stihl 011atv not oiling. I had recently rebuilt the oil pump and it was working fine until I let it sit in a damp building for several months. How much air pressure do you suppose one might safely use? Is there a danger of blowing out the crankshaft seals? Where should the piston be in order to avoid this? Could I use a small wire to push the crud out of the hole? Thanks. Bob Rooker

I used a spray can of carb cleaner, watch your eyes. A small wire may help.
 
stihl 010 over oiling fix???

Oil is oozing out at a fast rate so I can assume that the pump is working just fine. There's so much oil coming out of the oiling hole that when I rev up the chain saw, I can see oil spraying 6' to 8' feet ahead. Can someone please tell me if there's a restricter or reducer for the oil outlet? I visited my local Stihl dealer and they couldn't find anything in the parts diagram. Any help would be greatly appreciated. My email is bcmchong at hotmail dot com.

Thanks much.

I don't know if you have resolved your problem yet, but I cut a small piece of hard vacuum line 3/16"??? and placed it in the oiler pipe behind the bar to restrict oil flow. Works like a charm and haven't had any issues. I am suer there is a correct fix, but I haven't found the "technically correct" answer yet.
Hope this helps you,
Big Chief
 
bcmchong, 011 oiling too much.

I recently had trouble with my 011 not oiling at all and found out the oil line/hose was deteriorated so much it had split and the oil was leaking back into the oil tank before it could get to the chain. Inside the hose is a "compression spring" that restricts the oil flow to the chain and bar just enough to allow it to get the right amount of oil to these. It sounds like maybe yours has somehow disappeared or gotten shorter. If the latter is the case you simply need to stretch it out some and put it back in. If the former is the case you need to get a new one. The Stihl part number is 0000 997 0225 Compression Spring. If you need any more info on how to remove the spring or hose, let me know. Good luck! Bob Rooker
 
Thank You!

I recently had trouble with my 011 not oiling at all and found out the oil line/hose was deteriorated so much it had split and the oil was leaking back into the oil tank before it could get to the chain. Inside the hose is a "compression spring" that restricts the oil flow to the chain and bar just enough to allow it to get the right amount of oil to these. It sounds like maybe yours has somehow disappeared or gotten shorter. If the latter is the case you simply need to stretch it out some and put it back in. If the former is the case you need to get a new one. The Stihl part number is 0000 997 0225 Compression Spring. If you need any more info on how to remove the spring or hose, let me know. Good luck! Bob Rooker

Bob,
Thank you for the information. The part # is fantastic also.
Much appreciated,
Big Chief
 
1120 series saws (009, 010, 011, and 012) use a pulse operated oiler to lube the chain. This differs from most Stihl saws that use a gear driven oiler. The oiler is a cartridge that is attached into the crankcase of the saw. Before you do anything- including draining the bar oil, remove the exhaust screen from the exhaust outlet and be sure its not clogged with carbon. This got me once and I won't say how long I messed with the oiler before I figured out the real problem. If the exhaust screen is clean (or wasn't there to start with), put it back in. Recheck the oiler function- it often takes 10-20 seconds of running to get the pump primed and functioning. Still no oil output? Drain the bar oil tank and remove the clutch cover, bar, and chain. Set the saw on the bench clutch side up and clean off the area below the bar stud so no debris gets into the soon-to-be-opened oil tank. The oiler is the aluminum cover directly below the bar stud. It is about 1 1/4" round with one flat side. Remove the 3 slot screws that secure it into the crankcase. Gently pry the oiler assembly free of the case- it is about 2" long and has a hose attached to its inner end. Try not to damage the gaskets- usually you can save these. Once the oiler is free of the case, slowly pull it out and be sure its output hose isn't broken. One end of this hose attaches to the nipple on the inner end of the pump, the other end attaches into the crankcase where the bar oil is supposed to come out. It is U-shaped and is easy to replace if nescessary. The hose gets hot and brittle and often just breaks. Remember, these are older saws and rubber products will degrade. If the hose was intact, remove it from the pump and clean the pump off. The pump is easy to disassemble and clean. There is a spring inside it, so watch where it comes from when you remove the pump cover and put it back as it was originally. The pump diaphragm and gaskets rarely fail. You can clean everything and reassemble & test it. Often a thorough cleaning solves the problem. If not, you'll have to replace the diaphragm and gaskets- replace the hose too. I have had mixed results rebuilding these pumps- sometimes they just refuse to work. Check the cost of a new pump before you buy rebuild parts and consider your options. Hopefully a thorough cleaning will solve the problem. Good luck, and welcome to AS.

hi doc I have just acquired an 012 which runs well but oil feed pipe has dropped out of the oil feed port - would you be so good as to tell me how do you reinstall it - pump etc is all ok
 
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