Stihl 200t runs on choke - dies off choke ?

[Tree Raptor]

am new to TS just this week, find the info/pics great and think it will be a good place to find info and advise. Have 3 200T's, about 1 year apart in age from new. It just seems lately that they are all "throttling" off idle poorly. I know that some have said gas is causing the problem but I have always had gas no longer than 2 weeks old which I feel is not old. 89oct/Stihl premix. Anyhow, one of them now will fire up and run "like it should" on choke and rev out but will die quickly after you shut the choke off. Time after time. New fuel filter did not cure the problem. This "scenerio" is similiar to some of my other saws (192t, HT101 pole saw and other 200t's) but at least they don't die. I currenlty just took my 1 year old 200t back to the dealer as it was running lousy mainly just throttling up off idle, same as pole saw. I have NEVER experienced this type of issues years ago and saws ran for YEARS like new, so I'm getting frustrated and wish someone could give me some advise as to what is the problem and how to cure it.

Could it be that the carb diaphram is lunched ? or is it something more simple . I would REALLY like to find someone to tell me step by step how to rebuild a 200t carb myself as they are my favorite saw and I don't want to have to take them to the dealer each and every time they run like described above and I would only guess that a carb rebuild kit is reasonable..15/20 bucks ??

So anyone have a clue on the 200t dieing off chock and can anyone tell me how to remove carb from saw and rebuild. The rebuilding carb part I would image is just r&r as there can't be toooo many parts to it , just getting the carb out is what I think I need to know. Thanks...

Tree Raptor

XP357 Husky (stopped running (not siezed) but I would have to say
that pound for pound it is the best running saw I have
ever had in my hands) either selling for rebuild or parts ?
192t Stilh
200t Stilh
200t Stilh
200t Stihl
361 Stihl
046 Stihl
056 Sthil (still my most powerful saw) god that thing really humps, easily beats the 046)

 

[2000ssm6]

PM me your email addy.

 

[Lakeside53]

Starts on choke and then dies... Is your impulse hose connected underneath the carb box? Torn intake boot?

Assuming is adjusted correctly (about 1 turn out on L), bad throttle off idle is NOT usually a carb rebuild issue- it's a bad accelerator pump and that means a new carb. If your carb is a C1Q61A, B C or D, it's a pos after a few 10,000's throttle trigger pulls - the carb body wears. Replace it.

Carb out is dead easy - Take off the external grommet, undo the two rear nuts, disconnect the fuel line, pull out.

 

[Tree Raptor]

Stihl 200t problem cont'd

Starts on choke and then dies... Is your impulse hose connected underneath the carb box? Torn intake boot?

Assumign is asjusted correcty (about yturn out on L), bad throttle off idle is NOT usually a carb rebuild issue- it's a bad accelareator pump and that means a new carb. If your carb is a C1Q61A, B C or D, it's a pos after a few 10,000's throttle trigger pulls - the carb body wears. Replace it.

Carb out is dead easy - Take off the external grommet, undo the two rear nuts, disconnect the fuel line, pull out.

Thanks Lakeside53, in order that you stated.... I would assume carb is adjusted correctly as it WAS running fine and it was never "re-adjusted" since then, next.... you stated impulse hose ?? are you referring to gas line as I am not familiar with that term ? next.... saw is only 2 years old and have run others longer so I am ASSUMING that it is not a bad accelareator pump but with that said.... is there a way I can check this ? Don't know is my carb is a C1Q61A,B,C,D ??? how do I tell ? any guesses as to how much a new one is ? and lastly, would it be advisable for me to do a compression check prior to buying a carb just to be sure the problem is not elsewhere, althought like I said saw is only 2 years old and ran like new prior to this problem and no smoke so still looking for solution.. thanks,

 

[Paul001]

Thanks Lakeside53, in order that you stated.... I would assume carb is adjusted correctly as it WAS running fine and it was never "re-adjusted" since then, next.... you stated impulse hose ?? are you referring to gas line as I am not familiar with that term ? next.... saw is only 2 years old and have run others longer so I am ASSUMING that it is not a bad accelareator pump but with that said.... is there a way I can check this ? Don't know is my carb is a C1Q61A,B,C,D ??? how do I tell ? any guesses as to how much a new one is ? and lastly, would it be advisable for me to do a compression check prior to buying a carb just to be sure the problem is not elsewhere, althought like I said saw is only 2 years old and ran like new prior to this problem and no smoke so still looking for solution.. thanks,

If you are running 3 200T's I'm assuming you are a Tree man. Thats a tough life for a saw.

I'll leave the carb issue to Lakeside as he'll do a much better job than I.

First step, fuel is not to be ruled out. Remember here on the East Coast they change fuel mixes constantly. The biggest being the amount of alcohol.

One of the issues I see from my local guys, the AV mounts. That saw gets twisted, pulled, and yanked on constantly. The mounts get torn and then the boot between the carb and cylinder gets torn. You start sucking air, either lean seize the saw or it will not run off of choke.

So the answer is yes, get it pressure and Vac. tested before you do anything. If the boots are torn, pull the mufflers and take a look at the exhaust side of the piston.

 

[windthrown]

next.... you stated impulse hose ?? are you referring to gas line as I am not familiar with that term ?

It sounds to me like you are running with a broken or disconnected impulse hose. Get the IPL (parts list) for the 200T and read where that is and where it connects to. It is what sucks/pushes the gas into the carb. W/o it the saw will run like you say your's does. My 020AV had the same problem. Simple fix, but the impulse line is usually buried deep in the saw body. Make sure that both ends are connected. On most Stihls, one end connects to the base of the engine, and the other end connects to the carb, or to the handle that has an inlet to the carb thourgh the mounting gasket. Also make sure that your carb is nice and tight on the saw. If it is loose, the air leaks can cause all kinds of problems. Also check the gas line for cracks. If the gas line is leaking, it will typically not start.

 

[Evan]

could the L jet be pluged (restricting) fuel and then it cuts down the air with the chocke on and richns the mixture enough to run???

you might just pull the jets and blow em out with carb cleaner or the air compressor. maybe possibly something needs replaced but its usualy simpler than that

 

[Lakeside53]

Tree... sorry, I typed that reply just after coming back from the doctor.. drugged and pupils dilated... Fixed the original post now...


By "correct adjusted", I meant about 1 turn out on H and L. But.. if it was running correctly, then yes, something has changed.


Impulse - Look up underneath the handle back near the carb. You'll see a black hose running though the case and up to a nipple on the handle. If the rear buffer was broken at any time, the impulse can be twisted off and the boot torn.


Carb number are laser etched onto the carb body. You'll need to remove the carb, clean it and use a magnifier. I see many two year old carbs that are toast.


The first thing I do with any 200t "run issue" repair is to put on a "known-to-be-good" carb. 90% of the time, the problem disappears. Then I can decide whether to fix or replace the carb.