I Need to Cut Fast!

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J.Walker

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If I'm doing cuts in a 8x8 timber with a 39cc saw. Whats going to cut faster?
My choices of chain and sprocket setup are;
3/8 square ground, 60dl, 7 pin sprocket, total weight of 327 grams.
or 325, 56dl, NK, 8pin sprocket, total weight of 226 grams.
I'm thinking that the 325 setup weighing less will cut faster.











.
 
While the distance per revolution is close, the .325 should take a thinner cut and be quicker. With that saw I would try .325 x 7, .325 x 8, and 3/8 (91VX) x 7. That larger 3/8 chain is going to be too much for that small saw to pull.
 
Trial and error is the only was to find out. If you could find a guy that is really, really good at sharpening chains, it will make a huge difference. Stock chain is fast, but a really good filing job makes new chain seem sooo slow.
 
wasn't there a thread a while back with a small saw 3/8 vs 325 and the 3/8 won?

Brad was comparing .325 vs 3/8 LP on small saws. The .325(NOT NK) and 3/8 .050 LP were the fastest on his test saw. It might have been the Dolmar 420 thread.
 
Go for the thinnest kerf possible, this will make best use of the power you have. Racing a tiddly wee saw is an interesting idea, it gets you thinking about efficient use of resources.
 
If I'm doing cuts in a 8x8 timber with a 39cc saw. Whats going to cut faster?
My choices of chain and sprocket setup are;
3/8 square ground, 60dl, 7 pin sprocket, total weight of 327 grams.
or 325, 56dl, NK, 8pin sprocket, total weight of 226 grams.
I'm thinking that the 325 setup weighing less will cut faster.











.

Can you get me the part number for your clutch? I have a 336 with a spur drive. I want to swap to a rim drive.
 
Which of the 3 pictured saws is the best runner?

I've been replacing the low kickback chains on my small saws with WP stuff from Bailey's, and it seems to make a considerable difference.
 
Full chisel .325 was as fast or faster than 3/8 lopro on the 420. Too bad no one makes a 3/8 LoPro chisel chain. IMHO, regular 3/8 is too big on a 39cc saw. For that matter, I don't like it on a 50cc saw. You will find tests showing both ways whether 3/8 or .325 is faster on a 50cc saw. Timberwolf showed for straight out of the box 3/8 to be faster on a stock 260. My ported 260 turning 17,400 is faster with .325. I'm talking about square chain here. The only way to know will be to test it. But I can't imagine a 39cc saw pulling 3/8 chain. And...I don't think it has so much to do with the weight of the chain as it does the width of the kerf. You're removing more wood to make the same cut.

.325 chain
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3/8 chain
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I noticed in the Baileys catalog that a 20" ArborMax bar with Woodland Pro chain is $19.95. The chain alone is $12.95. May not be the best bar in the world but for seven dollars difference who cares!
I have been using this setup on my 5100 and like it. Plenty of power and lots of reach.
I bought two 24" Powermatch bars for $50 dollars on ebay and plan on trying it with .325 on my Husky 262. This would not be a common type setup but I may like it?
 
I noticed in the Baileys catalog that a 20" ArborMax bar with Woodland Pro chain is $19.95. The chain alone is $12.95. May not be the best bar in the world but for seven dollars difference who cares!
I have been using this setup on my 5100 and like it. Plenty of power and lots of reach.
I bought two 24" Powermatch bars for $50 dollars on ebay , free shipping, and plan on trying it with .325 on my Husky 262. This would not be a common type setup but I may like it?
 
Hey J. Walker, my experience is the .325 is faster on the smaller saws. The 3/8" low profile is super slow and doesn't take a very big bite.

On the point of .325 chain, Oregon is the fastest cutting with the 20LP series. The vibration levels are much less than the Carlton or Windsor counterparts. I noticed this when bucking up some dry sugar maple, and switched between my 2 2054's. One had a new 21LP chain and the other a new Carlton. I didn't time it, so take it for what it is worth. The bumper links seem to help the chain. :cheers:
 
Is this saw stock?

I dont have a saw that small but my 242XP cuts really well with Stihl RSC.

Is the extra weight of the bumper links on the Oregon chain adding much weight?

You entering a bumble bee class?
 
Which of the 3 pictured saws is the best runner?



The 238se is the fastest. I'd like to race this saw in the under 40cc class. To many people racing 346's and 5100's. I think this 238 could run fast with the right chain set-up. This was my first brand new saw.
Thinking about what has been said about kerf. If the full sized 3/8 chain was filed way back, the kerf is reduced? So when a race chain is filed way back, the cutter is narrow and tall. I allways thought this was done to reduce rotating weight. I'm still thinking that less rotating weight would be better in a smaller saw.
 
take a look at posts 17 and 20 (with photos)in this thread

http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=60282&page=2

"race chain" I was doin' a little readin' and ran across that thread. I don't recall if they mention what the chain started out as, but I suspect regular 3/8 chisel. That chain has been radically altered for chip clearance, lessened cutter drag in the wood, and lighter weight.

As for the 91vx (chamfer chisel)and the WP counterparts, it does well for the 3/8 lopro, and Brad's test with the Dolmar 420 proved that. The .325 chisel should have more potential, but you may have to massage it to get the most from it on a small saw.

When I was out "tuning" my muffler modded DCS401(39cc) and Husky 242, I ran them side by side. The Makita had 16" WP 30LP 3/8 lopro and the Husky 16".325NK Oregon 95VP. I fully expected the 3hp Husky to eat the 2.3hp Makita for breakfast, but that wasn't the case, actually, it was just opposite.:confused:

Plan B was to see why the 242 wouldn't cut with the slightly smaller, older design. I previously had the 242 top end off, but chose to do it again to see what I missed. This time I deleted the .015" fiber base gasket and that increased compression for 160# to 180# cold. I removed some restriction from the inside of the muffler, and then retuned, but just with tach. The saw picked up about 1500rpm(from previous tach tuning).

My point is that you need to make sure the saw is running to its potential in addition to having the right chain.
 
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