Husqvarna 55, Won't run (Fuel Issue)

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robinlbird

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I have a husqvarna 55 that won't run unless I hold the choke halfway out. I have gone through all of the normal "starving for gas" issues and it stays the same. I have rebuilt the carb, changed the fuel filter and left the filter off. I have cleaned all of the ports and holes in the carb when I rebuilt, even took out the metal plug in the carb and cleaned out the holes their. Checked the gas line and is not plugged (mouthfull of gas with no problem). Still runs exactly the same. Removed the fuel vent and ran without it in place, still won't run unless I hold the choke in a certain spot (about halfway).
 
Husqvarna 55 won't run (Fuel Issue)

I have a husqvarna 55 that won't run unless I hold the choke halfway out. I have gone through all of the normal "starving for gas" issues and it stays the same. I have rebuilt the carb, changed the fuel filter and left the filter off. I have cleaned all of the ports and holes in the carb when I rebuilt, even took out the metal plug in the carb and cleaned out the holes their. Checked the gas line and is not plugged (mouthfull of gas with no problem). Still runs exactly the same. Also pulled the fuel vent tube and tried to run, still the same.
 
Hey robilbird,
If you do not have a pressure tester for the fuel line, give it a slight tug and look where it come through the tank grommet to see for cracks. I see you said you got a mouth full of gas. lol sometimes the lines get tiny little pin holes. One of the most common problems with the 51/55. Also when you rebuilt the carb were the diaphams replaced?? If you still have the fuel filter off, put it back on. Husqvarna runs a check valve in their filters which keep the fuel line primed up to the carb. Another issue may be an air leak behind carb around the intake boot and impulse seal. Pretty common the 51/55. The saw may be getting to much air off choke and thats why it is only running on half choke. If your sure that the fuel supple is good. filter,line,carb and it is still not running do a cylinder leak down test. Hope this helps. Good luck!
 
This thread seems so familiar, deja vu perhaps?!?! :greenchainsaw:

Scott
 
Double Thread (My Fault)

When I posted it the first time it said the server was busy and to try it again, like an idiot I did and now there is 2 threads. I went to delete it but I have no link or option to delete one when I click on the edit link so now I am driving everyone to include myself crazy.

:givebeer:
 
When I posted it the first time it said the server was busy and to try it again, like an idiot I did and now there is 2 threads. I went to delete it but I have no link or option to delete one when I click on the edit link so now I am driving everyone to include myself crazy.

:givebeer:

Just edit your first post and take everything out. That way no one will reply to it.
 
Delete duplicate post

There is no link to delete. When I try to remove the text to have a blank description it won't allow me to. Says the message is to short and reverts back to the original message.
 
intake boot & Seal

Hey robilbird,
If you do not have a pressure tester for the fuel line, give it a slight tug and look where it come through the tank grommet to see for cracks. I see you said you got a mouth full of gas. lol sometimes the lines get tiny little pin holes. One of the most common problems with the 51/55. Also when you rebuilt the carb were the diaphams replaced?? If you still have the fuel filter off, put it back on. Husqvarna runs a check valve in their filters which keep the fuel line primed up to the carb. Another issue may be an air leak behind carb around the intake boot and impulse seal. Pretty common the 51/55. The saw may be getting to much air off choke and thats why it is only running on half choke. If your sure that the fuel supple is good. filter,line,carb and it is still not running do a cylinder leak down test. Hope this helps. Good luck!

I have not put a lot of hours on the saw if that helps, although I bought it many years ago. I did install a carb kit and had a tech check it and make sure I had put together correctly. I put the fuel filter back on, just wanted to eliminate that even though it was brand new.
The intake boot and impulse seal I did not mess with unless you think father time has worked on them.
I did spray out the carb with brake cleaner (all ports I could find) but if it was plugged up would the brake cleaner necessarily clean it out? Also blew out ports with air when done.
 
Yeah, I have seen 51/55s with low hours with air leaks around the boots and impulse seal. Generaly you will not see a crack or tear on the boot.
Husqvarna did not put any kind of clamp on the boots for the 51/55. They expand over time and do not seal around the jug or carb adapter. Pretty simple to change once you got the carb off just take the two bolts to the carb adapter off and it will slide out. To install the new boot and seal you do not have to take the jug off just set the new boot on the cylinder flange and work the carb adapter back and forth for a little bit and it will slide over the carb adapter flange. If you do not have a way to pressure test it, you may want to take it to a shop and have them do it. Only takes a few minutes. If you had a tech look at the carb and said it looked alright, you should fine there. Also not sure what you have the carb jets set at i normaly do 1 1/8th on the L and 1 1/4 on the H. then fine tune from their. (if you dont have a way to pressure test the cylinder) You could also try to crank the L speed jet out 3 turns or so and see if it runs.(not the most accurate but might save you a few dollars instead of taking it to the shop) If it does, shut and down and change the boot and impulse seal because it is taking way to much fuel to compensate for the air leak. Hope this helps. Good luck
 
Low Jet 3 turns

Yeah, I have seen 51/55s with low hours with air leaks around the boots and impulse seal. Generaly you will not see a crack or tear on the boot.
Husqvarna did not put any kind of clamp on the boots for the 51/55. They expand over time and do not seal around the jug or carb adapter. Pretty simple to change once you got the carb off just take the two bolts to the carb adapter off and it will slide out. To install the new boot and seal you do not have to take the jug off just set the new boot on the cylinder flange and work the carb adapter back and forth for a little bit and it will slide over the carb adapter flange. If you do not have a way to pressure test it, you may want to take it to a shop and have them do it. Only takes a few minutes. If you had a tech look at the carb and said it looked alright, you should fine there. Also not sure what you have the carb jets set at i normaly do 1 1/8th on the L and 1 1/4 on the H. then fine tune from their. (if you dont have a way to pressure test the cylinder) You could also try to crank the L speed jet out 3 turns or so and see if it runs.(not the most accurate but might save you a few dollars instead of taking it to the shop) If it does, shut and down and change the boot and impulse seal because it is taking way to much fuel to compensate for the air leak. Hope this helps. Good luck

Thanks, I will try, will let you know if it works. Appreciate the help.
 
Husqvarna 55 gas problem

Yeah, I have seen 51/55s with low hours with air leaks around the boots and impulse seal. Generaly you will not see a crack or tear on the boot.
Husqvarna did not put any kind of clamp on the boots for the 51/55. They expand over time and do not seal around the jug or carb adapter. Pretty simple to change once you got the carb off just take the two bolts to the carb adapter off and it will slide out. To install the new boot and seal you do not have to take the jug off just set the new boot on the cylinder flange and work the carb adapter back and forth for a little bit and it will slide over the carb adapter flange. If you do not have a way to pressure test it, you may want to take it to a shop and have them do it. Only takes a few minutes. If you had a tech look at the carb and said it looked alright, you should fine there. Also not sure what you have the carb jets set at i normaly do 1 1/8th on the L and 1 1/4 on the H. then fine tune from their. (if you dont have a way to pressure test the cylinder) You could also try to crank the L speed jet out 3 turns or so and see if it runs.(not the most accurate but might save you a few dollars instead of taking it to the shop) If it does, shut and down and change the boot and impulse seal because it is taking way to much fuel to compensate for the air leak. Hope this helps. Good luck

Just as a follow up, since my saw had been around for a while I replaced the fuel line hose, the boot and impulse seal.

Saw runs like a champ.

Thanks for everything...!

:chainsaw:
 
You need to remove the lever/needle/spring and hold the carb up to a light
and look through that passage. Then blow it out, and hold it up to a light again and visually verify that it is clear.
 

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