Castor Oil-interesting facts

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Miles86

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I found this interesting article regarding castor oil written by a chemist at Conoco, seems to support the great success of oils like Maxima 927 and Klotz supertechniplate and castrol A727(castor plus esters). Hope I dont get banned for this thread.:cheers:
 
Bennies of castor oil have been known for quite awhile. You've heard of Castrol? Named coined way back in the day as they started with castor. Only problem is castor needs to be degummed or otherwise is really gunky. I bought a snowmachine oil based on castor good to down to -27*F. It still was too dirty for long term use (more than 2000 miles), so I went back to synthetic. Smelled soooooo good though.
 
Elf's highest RPM rated stroke lube (HTX909, 25,000RPM) still contains castor (Ricin)
Their other competition full syn (HTX976) is rated to 18,000 RPM but is cleaner.
Both of these oils are used in 125 and 250 Moto GP bikes, International karts, etc.

Anyone know if Castrol XR77 is a castor/syn like it's older bro, A747 or a straight syn ? I have a data sheet but all it says is it's superior to A747 and formulated for unleaded fuels, and contains basic tech data.
 
I read about Shell Advance Racing M oil, it has castor and ester, but its not sold in the USA unfortunately, Castrol is hard to get info on, their website is not much help for details. I'm testing 50/50 original techniplate and benol in my leaf blower, want to see how much deposits accumulate by this October.
 
We get Shell M here, all of Catrols castor range, Maxima 927, Silkolene's castor blends, Elf HTX, etc.
Klotz is probably available too

I've even seen R30, R40 and A747 and Silkolene Pro KR2 on the shelf in a discount spare parts chain store here (SuperCheap)
 
I like running Blendzall, who produce a nice variety of castor oils. it just smells great and the machines love it. Maxima 927 seems to take the cake in the test results, but I was just talking to a old motorcycle junkie the other day and he was telling me about a local builder who compared 927 to a few other high end 2 stroke oils like Bell-Ray, etc. The builder actually felt the 927 wasn't the best in terms of wear and tear. In reality, we are splitting hairs here and all the top castor oils are primo stuff.:cheers:

However, I do like Klotz R50 a lot too. I can't tell a difference between castor based oils when running them back to back. Yesterday I order a gallon of R50 and a pint of Ultra 2 Blendzall. So I should be smelling good for a while.:biggrinbounce2:
 
There's no doubt that castor oil has the best film strength at high temps. However the best ester synthetic oils come close, and they burn cleaner. I've ran super techniplate and it's good stuff, and I'd like to try 927 some day just for the fun of it.:cheers:
 
I recall reading or hearing a tale (unconfirmed, could be bogus) about WWI aircraft engines.

The Rotary engines of the day were nothing like modern Wankels -- rather, they were built like backwards radial engines. The crank and pistons were stationary, and the cylinders, with the propeller, rotated around the shaft! These were high-torque, low-RPM engines. They were also essentially two-strokes, and were both fueled and lubricated by castor oil.

That said, the tale I heard is that pilots, upon returning to the aerodrome after a dogfight, would jump from the cockpit and make a beeline for the bathroom, as the castor fumes from both the exhaust and poorly-sealed intake would notoriously give them the runs!

Rotary engines of this style disappeared pretty much immediately after the war, replaced by inline and radial engine configurations which are still in use today.
 
I recall reading or hearing a tale (unconfirmed, could be bogus) about WWI aircraft engines.

The Rotary engines of the day were nothing like modern Wankels -- rather, they were built like backwards radial engines. The crank and pistons were stationary, and the cylinders, with the propeller, rotated around the shaft! These were high-torque, low-RPM engines. They were also essentially two-strokes, and were both fueled and lubricated by castor oil.

That said, the tale I heard is that pilots, upon returning to the aerodrome after a dogfight, would jump from the cockpit and make a beeline for the bathroom, as the castor fumes from both the exhaust and poorly-sealed intake would notoriously give them the runs!

Rotary engines of this style disappeared pretty much immediately after the war, replaced by inline and radial engine configurations which are still in use today.


The castor exhaust would often make the pilots vomit during flight.


.
 
I quit snowmobiling back around Y2K and had a few gallons of Klotz left over. It's all I have been using in all of my 2 strokes ever since. Love the smell and protects really good. I just had a gander inside the jug of my 359 and looked really nice. Inside of the muffler was also VERY clean. This stuff needs to burn clean for snowmobile exhaust power valve slides.
 
There's no doubt that castor oil has the best film strength at high temps. However the best ester synthetic oils come close, and they burn cleaner. I've ran super techniplate and it's good stuff, and I'd like to try 927 some day just for the fun of it.:cheers:

Well thats good news, I bought 2 quarts of the super techniplate, hope to try it out this weekend...:cheers:
 
OT - the WWI radial aircraft engines were built with a stationary crank and the propeller was mounted to the cylinders. The crank was fixed and the whole engine turned. This was done to cool the cylinders. Another FYI - there was no throttle on these engines, they ran wide open. "Throttle" was turning the ignition off and on momentarily.
And model aircraft engine fuel is nitro, alcohol, and castor oil or Klotz for lubrication.
 
OT - the WWI radial aircraft engines were built with a stationary crank and the propeller was mounted to the cylinders. The crank was fixed and the whole engine turned. This was done to cool the cylinders. Another FYI - there was no throttle on these engines, they ran wide open. "Throttle" was turning the ignition off and on momentarily.
And model aircraft engine fuel is nitro, alcohol, and castor oil or Klotz for lubrication.

That type of engine is known as a Rotary engine, not to be confused with the Wankel.

Visual delight:


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Well thats good news, I bought 2 quarts of the super techniplate, hope to try it out this weekend...:cheers:

That stuff smells really cool. Just make sure you run your saws every month or so. SuperTechniplate is good oil, but it doesn't have the best rust inhibitors, so it doesn't make a great storage lube. If I was going to run castor oil everyday I'd have a hard time choosing between Klotz Super and 927, I'm thinking I'd probably choose 927.
 
That stuff smells really cool. Just make sure you run your saws every month or so. SuperTechniplate is good oil, but it doesn't have the best rust inhibitors, so it doesn't make a great storage lube. If I was going to run castor oil everyday I'd have a hard time choosing between Klotz Super and 927, I'm thinking I'd probably choose 927.


When I get in the cuttin mood, the mix usually doesn't last long so hopefully it wont ever be a problem. :rockn:
 
Rust prevention is the only aspect I am not sure of with the non factory brand oils, so I've been using pennzoil marine fogging oil on the saws that will be stored for a while, I spray it into the carb while running at fast idle, just spraying the heck until it chokes out. Then I return the fuel to a metal gas can.
 
Be aware that all brands of castor bean oil are to a greater/lesser degree Hydroscopic, can in certain circumstances absorb up to six times it`s own weight of water ie, the note of rusting. Way back when I raced 125&250 2 stroke GP motor cycles my engine tuner always very strongly insisted that all fuel be drained from tank/carb,rinsed through with neat gas &any fuel left over dumped.He stated that IHO 7/10 days was the shelf life, after that the effect was noticeable, +any mix left in an alloy/mag tank will after a period corrode at the high tide mark,Something I found to my cost on buying a used 4 stroke race bike that had been standing for some 8 months & the castrol R oil had drained down to the crankcase & at high tide mark had almost rotted through Be observant Guys or it may get expensive
 

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