Harvester chain and bars, What are the actual differences to regular chainsaw chain?

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T

Teddy.Scout

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I have looked at all info. from Oregon and Carlton on it.
Besides the gauge, heavier straps-pre-sets, and rivots.
What is the difference?
 
I'm not exactly sure, but if our chainsaw bars and chains are regular then harvesters would need something more industrial, able to stand up to all the abuse, and wear and tare, that heads not being pampered compared to our chainsaws. Theyre cutting through those trees in a second, Also the powerhead behind them is just a tad on the powerful side. Just how much power they got on that b&c <object width="480" height="385"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/roT9mbYge0s?fs=1&amp;hl=en_US&amp;rel=0"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/roT9mbYge0s?fs=1&amp;hl=en_US&amp;rel=0" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="480" height="385"></embed></object>
 
I have looked at all info. from Oregon and Carlton on it.
Besides the gauge, heavier straps-pre-sets, and rivots.
What is the difference?

Teddy,
The 3/4 harvester I have has the #60 stamped on the raker. Everything about this chain appears heavier to me. The kerf it cuts is as wide as my thumb. And with .060 thickness to every bite obviously for chainsaw use you're gonna need some major gear reduction.
What sort of ideas are you cookin' ?
Igpoe:cheers
 
I'm not exactly sure, but if our chainsaw bars and chains are regular then harvesters would need something more industrial, able to stand up to all the abuse, and wear and tare, that heads not being pampered compared to our chainsaws. Theyre cutting through those trees in a second, Also the powerhead behind them is just a tad on the powerful side. Just how much power they got on that b&c

True that!
A+ on the vid!
Keeps things in check!!!!

Teddy,
The 3/4 harvester I have has the #60 stamped on the raker. Everything about this chain appears heavier to me. The kerf it cuts is as wide as my thumb. And with .060 thickness to every bite obviously for chainsaw use you're gonna need some major gear reduction.
What sort of ideas are you cookin' ?
Igpoe:cheers

Well I have run .404 .80 on a saw, and ASSUME (ya, never good to assume) that the 16H is the same, but has .063 gauge. Would you be reluctant to run either the .404 (.063 or .80) gauge chain on 100+cc saws
-090G
-1130G(currently on the back burner!)
Would be the recipients of the chain I would like to use it on for this years firewood bucking.

Figured I would just need to (double)check the raker settings and angles.
I run the harvester bars with the chain now. Just want to combo out 4 more Harvester bars I have.
 
True that!
A+ on the vid!
Keeps things in check!!!!



Well I have run .404 .80 on a saw, and ASSUME (ya, never good to assume) that the 16H is the same, but has .063 gauge. Would you be reluctant to run either the .404 (.063 or .80) gauge chain on 100+cc saws
-090G
-1130G(currently on the back burner!)
Would be the recipients of the chain I would like to use it on for this years firewood bucking.

Figured I would just need to (double)check the raker settings and angles.
I run the harvester bars with the chain now. Just want to combo out 4 more Harvester bars I have.

No, I wouldn't hesitate for a moment. I've got a pal who's running a harvester bar on a C-7, I think it is. But I would be trying to use rim sprockets with more pins so as to increase chain speed. The only way .404 is gonna cut as fast as1/2 is to go through the wood faster. If this is impractical for you , you might consider lowering the rakers a little 'cuz those saws have got plenty of butt to pull the .404 almost without rakers I would think.
Igpoe:cheers:
 
I run 16H on my Husky 385xpg because it is the only .404 pitch chain I can get locally. I cut the cutter tooth back from the get go to make it less aggressive. The only diffrence I can see between 16H and 27 is the depth of cut the rakers are set for so if a 385 will pull it like this then I am sure either one of the saws you mentioned will pull it without any problem at all.
 
No, I wouldn't hesitate for a moment. I've got a pal who's running a harvester bar on a C-7, I think it is. But I would be trying to use rim sprockets with more pins so as to increase chain speed. The only way .404 is gonna cut as fast as1/2 is to go through the wood faster. If this is impractical for you , you might consider lowering the rakers a little 'cuz those saws have got plenty of butt to pull the .404 almost without rakers I would think.
Igpoe:cheers:

Thanks for the info!
Any and all is great!
Thanks!

Bigger in every way, and much more aggressive. .

Yes! Bigger is always better!
Well that is what usually gets me in trouble!!


I run 16H on my Husky 385xpg because it is the only .404 pitch chain I can get locally. I cut the cutter tooth back from the get go to make it less aggressive. The only diffrence I can see between 16H and 27 is the depth of cut the rakers are set for so if a 385 will pull it like this then I am sure either one of the saws you mentioned will pull it without any problem at all.

Hammer on the nail!
That is good enough for me to follow through!!!!!!!!
Thanks!!!!!!!
 
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