Running in a 395 XP

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Those of you who run more oil mix than the manufacturer specs--do you run an extra quart in your pickups as well? Just curious. . .

Extra quart won't hurt nothing. Heck, if good if you're running on the highway, your oil's all up in rockers when you're doing that, so it's beneficial to have that extra quart.
 
Those of you who run more oil mix than the manufacturer specs--do you run an extra quart in your pickups as well? Just curious. . .

Space,
Of course you know the differences between 2 and 4 stroke engines and how the lubrication systems are different and the crankcase pressurization differences. Did I say "different" enough times?

An extra quart in some 4 stroke engines can be extreemly dangerous as the case pressures may rise too high in some circumstances. Seals have been known to blow because of too much crankcase motor oil which is not to be confused with 2 stroke motor oil. Next time you are bored go visit bobistheoilguy.com
 
Those of you who run more oil mix than the manufacturer specs--do you run an extra quart in your pickups as well? Just curious. . .

And ... the more oil in the mix, the lower the octane rating. Besides, the higher the rate of forming carbon deposits in chamber/port/muffler. Those lovely little carbon bits that flake off and cut the pretty stripes in the cylinder wall. Let's not even bring up particulates that carry hordes of carcinogenic goodies.

Manufacturer specifies mix ratio for reasons, for a given oil.

Extra quart in engine sump might get whipped about by crank. Not the same as in two-stroke, where it goes direct from case to chamber.
 
Regarding running an extra quart in a 4 stroke, I probably should have been more specific in my posting.

I have a 1989 Dodge Diesel; 3 gallons of motor oil in that engine; I run it a quart over. My other vehicle is a 1984 Mercedes 300td, 2 gallons in that motor, and I run it about 3/4 quart over. In a 5 quart motor, I might go less than that, but I've never owned anything else, they won't seem to die! And I've always ran over with the oil.

Getting back to saws, I personally find that running 1:40 in newer saws and 1:32 in older saws works. I'll do 1:40 with older ones if I pulled the ethanol out of the gas, but I don't always get the chance to do that. I find that they have noticeably more power with the ethanol removed. They definitely get hotter with the ethanol in, so either remove it or lubricate accordingly. I'll buy a plug and a little more oil over the life of the saw before I buy a piston & jug.
 
Howdy,
If you bought it under your personal name, you have a 2 year warranty. Do what the owners manual recomends, and run it like you own it. Opinions, whether they are better than, worse than, or indifferent to manufacturer reccomendations are just that. Anything mentioned other than what Husqvarna reccomends is not going to help you if you do have a failure of materials, or workmanship. After it's out of warranty you can change it up.
Regards
Gregg
 
Those of you who run more oil mix than the manufacturer specs--do you run an extra quart in your pickups as well? Just curious. . .

At least in my old Mopars I would. Especially if I was drag racing it. The stock pan had the capacity. Someone will chime in about windage but for the RPMs and power level I was at. An extra quart was worth it so as to not uncover the sump.

Run premium gas too if it hasn't ben mentioned already.
 
Last edited:
Well the handbook that come with the saw actually specifies 50:1, have put maybe six tanks through at 40:1 so maybe will go back to manufactures reccomendations I'd hate the dealer to try and slide out of a warranty claim if I had one:msp_angry:
Lurcher NZ.
 
As far as fuel mix goes, use whatever you normally use. S'gonna be drinking that it's whole life so might as well start it on the cocktail you plan on using for the life of the saw.....

As far as break in, I personally like to make sure the cylinder is hot to the touch the first half a dozen starts or so, but that's just me and honestly it's not all that necessary. As far as how to run it - run it like hell. No need to baby the snot out of it, it'll be fine. A lot of people get paranoid with "breaking in" a new saw. I have no clue why. Everyone does something different - from a heavy oil mix and not letting it cut at over 5,000rpm for the first two tanks, all the way to guys filling them up with 50:1 dino oil and not even waiting for it to warm up on the first fire as they start to take down a huge oak tree.....

Hate to say this but there's really no right or wrong answer here. Saws aren't 100% ********** proof, but I'm pretty sure the engineers who get paid an ungodly amount of money to design this stuff take in to consideration that there will be much douche baggery going on when no one follows the manufacturers suggestion of what oil to use and how it should be mixed or hoe the saw should be run. Most dealers usually tune the H out a bit just to keep it rich so the saw is pretty idiot proof and after a few tanks you go back in and they turn the H in a half a turn then your saw runs for a long time with generally no issues with the P&C due to improper break in techniques. I have yet to see a thread about someone's cylinder blowing up because their fuel ratio was wrong on the first tank, or because they didn't let it idle long enough during the first tank before using it to cut with, or because they didn't baby it enough.....

You'll hear lots of arguments of what to do and what not to do. Just know that your saw will be fine no matter what you end up doing, unless of course you put to test the woods I just said and mix up a fuel ratio of 200:1 - which is something I would advise against doing by the by.

Boy oh boy am I ever gonna get some **** thrown in my face for making this post. The hounds will certainly be let loose on me for this one. :)


Get your gas can, fill up yer 395, and go cut some wood. :)
 
Back
Top