Poulan oiler not working

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chevyforlife21

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What to check?I put cardboard down and put it half throttle for a min and 1 peasized drop came out instead of a line I'm new to oiler problems
 
If I'm not mistaken those have an oiler which sits under the clutch, you could check the gears to see if they're chewed up. But first I'd clean out all the sawdust from around the oiler and clean out the oil holes in the bar. You might need to loosen the oil cap and turn the saw on it's side to prime the pump a little. You might check the oil tank to see how clean it is also.
 
Not a big fan of the rope trick. Use an electric impact driver or air impact to loosen it. Clockwise for Stihls, unsure about Poulans. Rope not needed and leave the spark plug in.
 
Before you remove the clutch you might want to just remove the bar and chain and start the saw to see if any oil is coming out the oil port. If it is, all you need to do is clean out the bar. You might dump the old oil and flush out the tank and lines before changing out the oil pump. One nice thing about these Poulans, parts don't cost an arm and a leg like the Stihl.
 
Find your IPL

It's a 4620avx btw

look here, find the right year, get your illustrated parts list, complete with schematic breakdown so you can see what goes where

User Manuals

See that oiler assembly behind the clutch? Got a plastic gear in there that gets worn out plus the area gets fulla trash and plugged up. Pull that off, clean it, pull out the pump pickup thing outta the tank, behind that little metal shield right next to it, you'll see it, blast that out, stick it all back together, try it. If it still don't work, new impulse rod and gear. I think the whole replacement assembly is around fifteen bucks, but don't quote me. the pickup line and spring filter I doubt are broken, just clean them. That little plastic gear on the steel shaft can get worn out, just depends, not a huge difference between looking good and not working, but try the freebie just cleaning it up good first.

The gear on the crank spins that plastic gear, that turns that rod in the tube. It has a teeny tiny hole in it, slips one small drop of oil a spin, from the tank to the bar oiler channel, and dirt etc..you see what happens. It doesn't take much to gum it up or wear something out.

If you don't have the clutch tool, have to cob something, like needle nose vice grips or something. Clutch tool should be under ten bucks, just a custom socket thing. I take the starter side off and lock down the nut on that side with another bar and socket, then tap the clutch side tool or cobjob tool sharply. It unscrews clockwise.

As long as the clutch is off, clean the bearing and more lightweight grease or oil.

In fact, whenever you remove *anything* on a saw is a good time to clean everything in sight. Chainsaws are oily dirty crud magnets, every square inch of the things, no two ways to it, and that's mostly what goes wrong with them this side of trying to run them with ten year old mix in them.
 
I blew comppressed air onto an oil hole and it made it flow out. I did this with my woodshark too and half the bar oil flowed out real fast bur by comparison the woodshark oils much more. I rinsed the tank with gas twice and used air
 
I blew comppressed air onto an oil hole and it made it flow out. I did this with my woodshark too and half the bar oil flowed out real fast bur by comparison the woodshark oils much more. I rinsed the tank with gas twice and used air

Have you took a look at the pump gears yet? If the saw has a lot of time on it they might be worn out. it's plastic against plastic on those gears so they wear pretty quick, at least mine did.
 
I don't have a air ratchet or clutch tool so I haven't

I know some here have said to use an air ratchet but personally, I wouldn't. All you need is an adjustable wrench and a piece of rope just small enough to go through the sparkplug hole. small rope sometimes gets caught between the ports and the piston. Bring the piston up some from the bottom and insert the rope until you can't get any more in there then find a spot on the clutch to put the wrench and turn clockwise to remove the clutch. You may need to tap the wrench slightly to loosen the clutch initially. On the newer saws they're usually not stuck too much.
 
I know some here have said to use an air ratchet but personally, I wouldn't.

To each his own, but I use an air ratchet regularly with good results. I think a problem with the perception of this method might be that lots of folks who have tried it don't realize that you CAN NOT use a piston stop (aka piece of rope) when using an air ratchet. If you do, you are asking for all sorts of broken stuff in your engine. The air ratchet method depands on compression and overcoming engine inertia ONLY - no mechanical retraint methods at all, including (IMHO) holding or blocking the flywheel.
 
To each his own, but I use an air ratchet regularly with good results. I think a problem with the perception of this method might be that lots of folks who have tried it don't realize that you CAN NOT use a piston stop (aka piece of rope) when using an air ratchet. If you do, you are asking for all sorts of broken stuff in your engine. The air ratchet method depands on compression and overcoming engine inertia ONLY - no mechanical retraint methods at all, including (IMHO) holding or blocking the flywheel.

If you use an air ratchet you'd better be sure you have it turning in the right direction before you pull the trigger! I have an air ratchet and use it on lawnmower blades and automotive stuff, tried it on a Homelite 150 flywheel nut and snapped the crank in half. I usually just use hand tools on chainsaws any more but I'm in no hurry to get them done. Anybody else can use anything they want.
 

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