Chainsaw Modifications???

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Sting

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Thanks for all your input guys... I really appreciate the advice.

From many of the posts I've been reading here, it seems many of you run hopped up saws. Now, I'm far from a professional user, and have visited sites like Walker's. Whichever saw I get, Stihl or Husky, do I really need the *FULL* treatment, like posted on Walker's site which costs $200??? BTW- are the saws listed for sale on Walker's site already given the treatment, or are they stock and modifications are on top of that???

Or for my homeowner use, would just a modified muffler suffice? It appears to me that are good gains from just a muffler modification, and I wouldn't need to send the saw away.

Also, in terms of modifications, how does that affect warrantieson saws? E.g. if I mod the muffler, and I need to get the saw serviced, should I put on the stock muffler? Or if I went full mod, does that affect things?

Thanks again!
 
Walker's charges for modding, maybe $200 cdn, I'm not sure.

A chainsaw runs fine stock, but muffler mods up the power more than anything else. The saw will run cooler, and thus last longer.The work can possibly be done by yourself- lots of talk on this board- and pics.
 
Originally posted by rbtree
Walker's charges for modding, maybe $200 cdn, I'm not sure.

A chainsaw runs fine stock, but muffler mods up the power more than anything else. The saw will run cooler, and thus last longer.The work can possibly be done by yourself- lots of talk on this board- and pics.

I'm 98% sure I'm going to get a new 026 - and I'd like to make whatever simple changes I can to make it run better. I searched this forum and found a good thread "How to make right Muffler-Changes on a MS 260?" - but the pictures posted by jsikkema1 are missing now. Does anyone have them saved? or Jeff - if you've still got them could you post them again? or just mail them to me at [email protected]?

If these muffler changes aren't easy to do; is it possible to order a modified muffler from someone?
 
Rich,
A walkerized 026 is one hell of a saw( have owned two of them).
But don't over look a jonsey 2149 or a husky 346.
I own a 2149 built by Dennis that rocks Just guessing I would saw it cuts 20-30% faster than eather of the 026 I had.
I run a 20" 3/8 bar and chain with ease
and the price will be a little less I would guess..
Just something to think about.. Eric
 
I as yourself am not a pro use, but would be more of an over enthusiastic hobiest. I had picked up an 066 a couple of months ago and just opened up the muffler this weekend. As I do mostly milling with the saw getting the heat away from the engine is importaint.

It took me an couple of hours to do the mufler mod, though I spent a lot of time messing with the matching of the muffler and gasket to the port opening. I found that the muffler and gasket were factory mismatched to the port by about 3/32 of an inch on 1 side, a 1/16 on another and 1/32 on another. Note this likely dose not make much difference given the muffler restriction but once you open the muffler up i'm sure cleaning the exaust port flow helps. anyway I only used a dremel and a drill press, though you could likely get by with a hand drill. I did take some before and after temprature reedings with a lazer thermoscan used to find hot spots while firefighting, and found it made about 25-50 F difference in the surface head temp over 2 short tests. Precievable power increase with only slight increase in the shapness of sound level. Im not done with the modification so I will do more tests and post what I find.

I did approch the dealer in a round about way with regard to modifications, they said they were not obligated to fix problems resulting from any modification, and were unlikely stand behind problems the modification may have caused, however if the problem was unrelated to the modification they would make good if they could (they claimed to have to send defective part/s back to Stihl for credit). sounds like it would depend on your relationship with your dealer/repairshop?

The 066 mod went well so once I break the new 260 I will look at the muffler for it as well, I hear they are realy resticted and benifit from some modification. I did not even want to open it up to take a look, I now I'd end up messing with it.

If your not a do it your selfer, there are shops who specialize in modifications, I would not mind putting a bit of bread and butter on there table but I don't ike the idea of shipping the saws cross country.

Timberwolf

You can always open up a muffler a bit at a time but it is a lot harder to close it back in. Good Luck
 
026

The 026 is reall easy to open the muffler up. Take the front cover off, and add 3 more holes the same size as the one that is there. You now have an older style muffler for an 024/026.
Will this void warranty? Only if you adjust the saw to lean. My experience so far is that you are defeating the emissions warranty. But I have yet to see this mod ruin a saw. Best bet, have a knowledgable tech set the mix after the mod. Should not be a problem.
 
346xp mod

Here is a pic of a 346xp saw I did the muffler on, ths saw kicks booty with the modified muffler not to mention is sounds nicer.
This pic is before and after I used 5/8's pipe after I removed the galvinizing from it and braised it on.

I should have made the starting side pipe "right side in picture"
a little more out because when I am going to drop a tree the heat from the pipe can be felt with a gloved hand. But For my first shot at the tittle It wasnt' that bad.
 
How does one go about determining the size and location of the tubes?
I have a new Husky 350 and although it preforms very well for me,
I'd love to help it breath better.
 
open muff. end of ex. port then match muff. also advance timing 5degrees that will give you lots more power gary hunt

Thats cool man. I think we have all done that when new to the site. Anways, I gave you some good rep for it! :hmm3grin2orange::hmm3grin2orange:
 
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