Stihl 025 won't idle - what carb or kit?

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dboyd351

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A friend came over tonight and we cut a little wood with his Stihl 025. It would start and run fine, but would not idle. He said it hasn't idled for awhile and when he took it to the Stihl dealer they said something about they couldn't get a rebuild kit for it, so he just lives with it dying every time you let off the throttle. Every time it dies he drop starts it with his finger on the throttle to keep it running!!!:msp_w00t:I looked it up online and there is no shortage of carbs for it, but I see some are WT 215s and some are 286s. The saw is supposed to be an 1985 model.

Does anyone know which carb is the correct one for this saw? I love the way Stihl won't post IPLs online. Maybe I should go to the search for manuals thread.
 
yep, beg for manuals and just ask your friend to look at the numbers..... easy as pie. You play with the low or idle screw, I'd try that first.

Thanks. I know you're right. It is kind of hard to explain this to him. He is very old school, doesn't have a computer at all and if the dealer tells him something he just accepts it. I'd like to get his saw running right, though. Phil on the beg for manuals thread came through with the manual and IPL. Now I've just got to get my hands on that saw and look up some numbers to see which carb it uses - could be the 215 or the 286.

Thanks for the reply.
 
Stihl 025 Carb

Hi, the carbie you need is the Walbro WT 215 for the 025 model.
The 286 is for the Stihl ms250c model which has the intel carb on it. The Stihl ms 250c has a primer bulb on the side to make starting easier.
I did a fair bit of reading on this as I have just purchased a Walbro WT 215 to fit to a Stihl ms 180.
The 180 has no primer bulb and has only one adjuster screw which is why I want to fit the next size up carb.
After a few mods it will work fine.
Hope this helps
 
Hi, the carbie you need is the Walbro WT 215 for the 025 model.
The 286 is for the Stihl ms250c model which has the intel carb on it. The Stihl ms 250c has a primer bulb on the side to make starting easier.
I did a fair bit of reading on this as I have just purchased a Walbro WT 215 to fit to a Stihl ms 180.
The 180 has no primer bulb and has only one adjuster screw which is why I want to fit the next size up carb.
After a few mods it will work fine.
Hope this helps

Thanks for the input. That explains some things. The IPL I got may have been for several models, thus the listing for 2 different carbs. Glad I found that out before I ordered one!
 
Now I've just got to get my hands on that saw and look up some numbers to see which carb it uses - could be the 215 or the 286.

Thanks for the reply.

Before you spend anything, try and tune the low setting. It may be that simple, a small twist and it may run perfect. A carb kit can be had for under $10, new carb $30+ and it actually may not fix your problem. No explanation required, tell him he may be throwing his money away without trying to tune the saw first, 5 minutes of your time will tell.

Bring the saw across the bridge and I'll do it for you if your not sure.
 
I bought a new twin needle carb for my 025 at the local Stihl dealer and it was $20 + change and tax
 
won't idel

If the carb r&r dosen't fix the problem.Pressure test as it may be the crank seals,as this was the problem on mine. good luck Steve
 
The saw runs good at WOT per the OP... so that tells me that the rubber gasket/fuel pump inside the carb is working. Typically a carb dies when you floor it meaning it needs more fuel and points directly to the carb/lines/filter and sometimes the vent. This one doesn't idle, if it needed a carb kit it would stumble on the WOT transition. The low isn't working... it's either plugged up with debris or not adjusted correctly. Either way a five minute check...... sounds like you'd prefer to spend $20+ on a problem that may cost nothing to fix.

My offer to make the adjustment stands, bring it across the bay bridge and I'll do it for you. That new carb still needs tuned and may not cure the problem.

Air leaks make the saw run at high idle.
 
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The saw runs good at WOT per the OP... so that tells me that the rubber gasket/fuel pump inside the carb is working. Typically a carb dies when you floor it meaning it needs more fuel and points directly to the carb/lines/filter and sometimes the vent. This one doesn't idle, if it needed a carb kit it would stumble on the WOT transition. The low isn't working... it's either plugged up with debris or not adjusted correctly. Either way a five minute check...... sounds like you'd prefer to spend $20+ on a problem that may cost nothing to fix.

My offer to make the adjustment stands, bring it across the bay bridge and I'll do it for you. That new carb still needs tuned and may not cure the problem.

Air leaks make the saw run at high idle.

I don't want to spend anything on it if it can be fixed by turning up the idle screw or doing a low speed adjustment. If it's not those things, I'd try a carb kit first, but I think you're right, it probably needs an adjustment, or maybe a good cleaning. My primary problem is convincing the saw's owner it can be fixed, since he trusts the shop that told him they can't make it idle and they couldn't get a satisfactory rebuild kit or replacement carb. If I take the carb apart, might as well put in a rebuild kit, since the saw is 25 years old. My biggest problem is convincing the owner to let me fix it, despite what the shop said. I don't think drop starting a saw with your finger on the trigger is a good idea.

I appreciate your offer. Where do you live? You mean the Bay Bridge or the CBBT? I'm MUCH closer to the latter. PM me if you'd like.
David
 
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