Craftsman 358.354830 Won't Stay Running/Restart

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Merc1100sc

ArboristSite Lurker
Joined
Dec 25, 2012
Messages
6
Reaction score
0
Location
Upstate, ny
Hello all.

I am trying to figure out a craftsman 358.354830 for my father in law. The saw is in good condition.
It will start after a bunch of pulls with the choke full on. After a few seconds it will idle and rev pretty well with the choke off.
Once it warms up it wants to bog upon applying throttle. I've played with the mixture screws with no luck. It gets to the point where it will just die while squeezing the throttle and will not restart.

It has good spark. Has 150ccp and about 140 once warm. Piston/cylinder wall looks good. No excessive carbon build up in the exhaust area.
We rebuilt the walbro carb a year ago and it worked great after that. I pulled it apart again last night and everything looked good. Everything was in place from what I could tell.

Any ideas what could be wrong with this thing?

THanks
 
How long has it been since it was last running?

I would start by checking all the fuel components. Line and filter.
It probably wouldn't hurt to put a carb kit in it. They are cheap and it will rule out that part.

Not familiar with that saw but I would also check the impulse line.

Someone who has or who has worked on that saw will be along shortly.

Good Luck!
 
1. Send it to me. Its an antique, and do you really want to keep it anyway?:msp_biggrin:

2. Don't run it any longer without fixing it, its starving for fuel creating a lean situation. Bad news.

3. Its a 3700/3800 Poulan. Many different threads on how to replace the fuel lines. Poulan thread is pretty laid back and helpful, unlike so many spots here. Search "Poulan fuel line replacement".

I have a smaller and a larger engine model on the same frame, done the fuel line thing on a few more, pretty easy and cheap to do. If you redid the carb, you won't have any trouble with it. Find the parts list here. http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/part-model/Craftsman-Parts/Chainsaw-Parts/Model-358354830/0247/1503220?pathTaken=&prst=0&shdMod=358354830

Everything should be at a small engine shop near you, including the duckbill valve, new Tygon lines, and a filter.

Seriously, PM me for my address. I could use a parts saw. I'll even pay the shipping.
 
1. Send it to me. Its an antique, and do you really want to keep it anyway?:msp_biggrin:

2. Don't run it any longer without fixing it, its starving for fuel creating a lean situation. Bad news.

3. Its a 3700/3800 Poulan. Many different threads on how to replace the fuel lines. Poulan thread is pretty laid back and helpful, unlike so many spots here. Search "Poulan fuel line replacement".

I have a smaller and a larger engine model on the same frame, done the fuel line thing on a few more, pretty easy and cheap to do. If you redid the carb, you won't have any trouble with it. Find the parts list here. http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/part-model/Craftsman-Parts/Chainsaw-Parts/Model-358354830/0247/1503220?pathTaken=&prst=0&shdMod=358354830

Everything should be at a small engine shop near you, including the duckbill valve, new Tygon lines, and a filter.

Seriously, PM me for my address. I could use a parts saw. I'll even pay the shipping.

If he sends it to you, forward it on to me. I'll send you two 3400 parts saws to replace it.:D
 
bogs n dies

If you have gone through the fuel system and still runs like crap then your crank seals dried up from ethanol fuels and will not create the vac you need to draw fuel to block and pump pressure will be very weak. But if it is old enough it may be a reed port motor with dirty or bent reed valve
 
Thanks for all the replies.

We used the saw quite a bit the summer of 2011 and it ran great. We rebuilt the carb with all new seals and gaskets that summer also.

lol. i'd send you the saw but it's my father in laws and he's owned it since new a long long time ago. I think he said its about 30 years old??

When I first pulled the plug the other day to try to figure it out, it looked as if it had been running lean. COuld it be a carb adjustment or just not pulling fuel into the carb? The carb has a diaphram which looks to be in perfect condition.

The screen in the bottom of the carb which looks to be an air inlet was clogged. I cleaned it and still no better though.

Im trying to remember when I had the carb off but I think I remember it having a reed vavle style intake manifold. It would still need case vacuum wouldnt it to drive the diaphram?
 
Have you pulled the muffler and checked for restrictions?

Besides the "clogged spark screen" syndrome, there could be a wasp nest in there. (don't ask how I would know that)
 
high jet could be clogged on the carb, impulse line / port damaged or clogged (if applicable) check both, assuming you already checked for gunked up fuel in the carb and lines.

if you fooled around with the adjustements on the carb return them to stock position before you continue troubleshooting it.

best luck.
 
Yup,

A good starting point on many carburetors is 1 turn out from lightly seated.

1 low, 1 high, should get you in the ballpark, fine tune from there.
 
Was the saw put away for a long time with ethanol fuel in the carb and fuel system? If it wasn't run dry and then the ethanol fuel sat for a long time (common with chainsaws) then I would suggest checking and replacing any parts that could have been affected.
 
Thanks for all the replies.

We used the saw quite a bit the summer of 2011 and it ran great. We rebuilt the carb with all new seals and gaskets that summer also.

lol. i'd send you the saw but it's my father in laws and he's owned it since new a long long time ago. I think he said its about 30 years old??

When I first pulled the plug the other day to try to figure it out, it looked as if it had been running lean. COuld it be a carb adjustment or just not pulling fuel into the carb? The carb has a diaphram which looks to be in perfect condition.

The screen in the bottom of the carb which looks to be an air inlet was clogged. I cleaned it and still no better though.

Im trying to remember when I had the carb off but I think I remember it having a reed vavle style intake manifold. It would still need case vacuum wouldnt it to drive the diaphram?

Its a fuel issue. If the seals were leaking, it would run with a high idle, no power. No reeds. Vacuum is supplied at the gasket for the carb. Seen filters that look clean but nothing gets in from a film over them, from ethanol or moisture in the fuel.

Yes, 30 yrs old is believable. Red ones, along with the Poulan and other colors/brands made before that.

If he needs to dispose of it, I can arrange that with a small contribution towards the new(er) saw.
 
Thanks. I will recheck everything fuel related. Can the crank seals possibly be bad as mentioned above? Hate to break it on that far if not absolutely needed.

thanks
 
Thanks. I will recheck everything fuel related. Can the crank seals possibly be bad as mentioned above? Hate to break it on that far if not absolutely needed.

thanks

As someone earlier stated if the seals were bad you would have a hard time adjusting the carb. It would start however and idle a little high due to the excess air being sucked in. Only way to really determine if seals are bad is to do a vacuum test. If you don't have the tools however, maybe someone on this site near you can help out. Finally go thru that carb again. Clean it real well. The HDB carb is fairly startight forward to work on.
Bob
 
Thanks. I will recheck everything fuel related. Can the crank seals possibly be bad as mentioned above? Hate to break it on that far if not absolutely needed.

thanks
Did you ever find out the problem? It appears that i'm having the same issue on the same model. Any pointers would be much appreciated.
 
Back
Top