Nik's Poulan Thread

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Should finish making this 415 updated today. New tank and air filter set up.
Has to be a very low hour 1991 saw. Got it from original owner that no longer could get parts from the dealer he bought new from. Dealer contacted me for parts and then to see if if I wanted to buy it.
Piston and cylinder looked like new. piston still had the witness lines on both sides. So I left it there instead of going 71cc or 77cc.

The 475 415 mesh air filter and the used rubber tube and metal ring $15 + ship if someone still runs these. Bottom left corner of last pic.

p415cc.jpg p414f.jpg p415.jpg p415c.jpg p415newaftank.jpg
 
Done and just finished test cuts in some ash.
Only thing I did was leave the baffle out of the muffler on this one. Just badazz saws for 65cc IMHO. Quad ports.

415 425 same cylinder. Just 425 has all the updates done on them like 505. This is a 415 with 505 tank and filter set up.

pp415d.jpg pp415dd.jpg
 
Not as much time to work on saws these days, but I took a chance on a couple of inexpensive, as-is 3000 parts saws this afternoon. Managed to mount a tank up, only later to find it had a hairline fracture clean though the carb mounting flange. Front FW side AV buffers torn in half. I did not have one, but tried my luck with a Husqvarna 501 86 70-02 off of a 254. It needed some slight modification to fit. I chucked it in a drill via the mounting screw. Turned it down on the grinder about 0.025" and shortened it up. Glove. I only had one carb, but it cleaned up well and the diaphragms were like new. I did not change the seals yet in case I could not get a runner. Apparently I might like these saws.

Poulan 3000 Parts Saws 5.jpg Poulan 3000 Parts Saws 4.jpg Poulan 3000 Parts Saws 3.jpg

Poulan 3000 Parts Saws 1.jpg
Poulan 3000 Parts Saws 2.jpg
 
I couldn't get the fast idle button to work so I called the saw shop and a new trigger assembly was only a little over $4. I filled the tank yesterday when I was working on it and all day there would be gas in the breather housing and on the tailgate around it. I filled it about 2/3 of the way full this morning. I'm not sure where the tank vents but I got a new fuel cap when I got the trigger. When I got home I tried to crank it and it was hydro locked, after removing the plug I pulled the starter and sprayed the truck with gas. Even though I didn't see anything wrong with the old trigger I put the new assembly in and the high speed lock is working. I hope the new Fuel cap cures the tank pressure problem.
Cannon View attachment 572778 View attachment 572781

It looks like there are 3 lines on that saw.

1 from the tank to primer
1 from primer to the carb
1 from the tank to the air. From what it looks like on the IPL that may be the vent. Try to look in the tank and see which line is not attached to the fuel filter = vent.

http://s30387.gridserver.com/partsDiagrams/Poulan 2055.pdf

Those saws are a PIA if you do can't find the correct carb settings. I think to start with is something like 2 1/8 - 1/4 for both the high and the low.
 
I couldn't get the fast idle button to work so I called the saw shop and a new trigger assembly was only a little over $4. I filled the tank yesterday when I was working on it and all day there would be gas in the breather housing and on the tailgate around it. I filled it about 2/3 of the way full this morning. I'm not sure where the tank vents but I got a new fuel cap when I got the trigger. When I got home I tried to crank it and it was hydro locked, after removing the plug I pulled the starter and sprayed the truck with gas. Even though I didn't see anything wrong with the old trigger I put the new assembly in and the high speed lock is working. I hope the new Fuel cap cures the tank pressure problem.
Cannon View attachment 572778 View attachment 572781

The fuel tanks on saws are vented but only to let air into the tank as the fuel is used up. The vents if working properly, will not let air out so the tank will build pressure when it heats up.

I would suggest that your carb metering needle is leaking due to being stuck or having some crud on the seat so the needle won't seal.
If that's the case, the pressure in the tank will force fuel through the carb and it will come out whichever way gravity takes it.

Blow (with your mouth) through the fuel line into the carb. You shouldn't be able to pass any air through it. I pop the fuel line off the carb and use a piece of clean fuel line.
 
The fuel tanks on saws are vented but only to let air into the tank as the fuel is used up. The vents if working properly, will not let air out so the tank will build pressure when it heats up.

I would suggest that your carb metering needle is leaking due to being stuck or having some crud on the seat so the needle won't seal.
If that's the case, the pressure in the tank will force fuel through the carb and it will come out whichever way gravity takes it.

Blow (with your mouth) through the fuel line into the carb. You shouldn't be able to pass any air through it. I pop the fuel line off the carb and use a piece of clean fuel line.
I thought the new fuel cap had fixed it but I put it in the back of the truck for about a 1/2 hour before trying to use it and the cylinder was full of gas again. I'll try what you said.
Cannon
 
I picked this dandy up today. Comp is 185, has spark all the parts are there and it's in pretty decent shape. The fuel and vent lines are rotted off and the impulse line is missing.
The front buffer is a spring rather than a piece of sheared off rubber.:)
Looking forward to getting into it to see if there are any surprises when I get back from the NY GTG this coming weekend.

DSCF3267.JPG DSCF3268.JPG
DSCF3269.JPG
 
Nice Tim. That is a pretty cool saw. Not many around.
Not sure what the difference is between that and a 335.

Roger, far as I know it was sold at the time the PP365 was and is just a 54cc version of the PP365. It has the wider case front spacing for the bigger muffler, bigger cyl bolt centers, wide top covers and a different recoil setup then the 335.
 
Not as much time to work on saws these days, but I took a chance on a couple of inexpensive, as-is 3000 parts saws this afternoon. Managed to mount a tank up, only later to find it had a hairline fracture clean though the carb mounting flange. Front FW side AV buffers torn in half. I did not have one, but tried my luck with a Husqvarna 501 86 70-02 off of a 254. It needed some slight modification to fit. I chucked it in a drill via the mounting screw. Turned it down on the grinder about 0.025" and shortened it up. Glove. I only had one carb, but it cleaned up well and the diaphragms were like new. I did not change the seals yet in case I could not get a runner. Apparently I might like these saws.

View attachment 573525 View attachment 573524 View attachment 573523

View attachment 573521
View attachment 573522

Nice, I like those also. Remember to let me know when your ready for that box I got here..
 
Since I'm old, retired and don't sleep much I've been in the garage fooling with this Poulan. I put a clean fuel line on the carb (1st picture) and could not blow through it. I watched a couple of videos on fuel line routing and think I may have the primer bulb plumbed backward. As it is now when I push the bulb gas comes out the line going to the carb ( far right in second picture). One diagram I saw online showed the primer pumping gas into the tank. If I have the primer lines reversed would that allow the engine to flood? The fuel lines on this bulb are the same size, some diagrams show a small and large line.
Cannonpoulan 2055 001.JPG poulan 2055 002.JPG
 
The saw is well past the Skil assembly in Toronto time. The 336 was made in Shreveport. I think the Canadian ones were the only ones to come with a brake unless ordered in the US. The IPL states a chan brake kit. The brake is plastic where the earlier ones were mag and steel. Keeps the weight down some. The chain tension adjust is in the case.
It holds vacuum and pressure perfectly. I am hoping I don't have the same issue as the 2800 where it had a leak between the carb and the spacer bracket between the carb and the boot.
I expect there will be some piss reving by some trying to get their saws going. There is a very large amount of wood to cut. Looking forward to it but not to the drive.
 
The saw is well past the Skil assembly in Toronto time. The 336 was made in Shreveport. I think the Canadian ones were the only ones to come with a brake unless ordered in the US. The IPL states a chan brake kit. The brake is plastic where the earlier ones were mag and steel. Keeps the weight down some. The chain tension adjust is in the case.
It holds vacuum and pressure perfectly. I am hoping I don't have the same issue as the 2800 where it had a leak between the carb and the spacer bracket between the carb and the boot.
I expect there will be some piss reving by some trying to get their saws going. There is a very large amount of wood to cut. Looking forward to it but not to the drive.
Nice saw Tim.

I've been monkeying around with a wonky idle on the latest 3000. HDA-49. Ended up dunking the saw. Small air leak on FW. New seal installed. Still not idling correctly? Pressure tested the carb and the metering needle wasn't resetting after pop-off. So, new OEM kit. It idles a bit better now. Maybe I just have to get used to the undulating pattern of the idle on these carbs. Of my 5 with that carb, only one has a nice steady idle. Seems I have to have closer to lean on the L.

What are you taking to cut with?
 
Back
Top