not sure if its a hk but there is a 442 stamped on it.
is the hk standard on 112's?
i think the reason it was flooding was because both jets were out bout 1.5 turns. the saw belongs to my pastor.
took the carb apart. clean inside. needle & seat will prevent fuel flow. even ether. depress the needle and fuel drips, release and it stops. i did not remove needle. diaphram looked ok. elastic and intact. put everything back together and finally got the saw running, but barely. i can set the lo jet to 3/4 and hi jet to bout 1 and get it started then hi to bout 7/8 will get rpms up to 11k, wot w/o b&c, but it wont idle at those settings. has to be 1/8-1/4 richer to start.
compression is 150.
summary: saw will barely run and the range of carb settings where it wil run is very narrow. only 1/8 turn. and when it is running it wants to stall and fall on its face. i know it sounds like the lo is too lean but ive tried it everywhere
obtw this carb dosent have an impulse line. it uses a hole from bottom of intake through boot into carb.
the only carb issues i have had before is bad diaphram, which results no gas being pumped.
the symptom is like a saw that has a crack in the fuel supply line sucking air and runs erratic but i eliminated fuel supply issue by using an elevated vented syringe strapped to handle.
question:
1. if needle is not leaking and diaphram is intact, can the carb still need a kit?
2. could there be an air leak like where the parts of the carb join?
this one is bout to drive me crazy. bet ive yanked on it a thousand times!! its gratuity and in my spare time but i would eventually like to get it done!!!
I posted a reply earlier on this carb problen but it has not showed up here so I will give it another try,if it shows up eventually it will still contain some helpful hints.
OK; Yes the HK, was standard on the 112 but some Bing carbs were also used,they are a bit different but work basically the same.
If everything in carb is clean and set right the saw should run at around 1 turn out on both screws, then fine tune with small adjustments, NEITHER SCREW SHOULD BE SET ANY FURTHER IN THAN 3/4 TURN OUT FROM SEAT, OR ANY FURTHER OUT THAN 1 & 1/4 OUT. If the saw will not run inside these settings something else is wrong.
It is not likely that there is a leak between the carb parts as the gaskets usually do a good job sealing the carb up tightly. Only if the carb has been damaged by prying apart the covers or the metering module with inappropriate tools or practice and they have become galled or bent.
Did you remove the setting screws and blow out the passages when you had the carb apart.
Did you remove the metering lever and inlet needle and clean the well where it sits in and visually check the needle tip for wear or gummy feeling, must be very clean here. The metering lever must be set exactly flush with the carb body on either side of where it pivots on the pin.
The inlet spring must be in the hole under the metering lever and be properly seated around the dimple under side of the metering lever. Also these springs lose tension with age and sometimes have to be replaced with new ones to work correctly, if it sets bent over side ways when out on the bench it is probably weak.
There is also a removeable main nozzle in some of this series of carbs that can trap dirt particles or become sticky with age,these are a real problem if not completly clean and not sticky. I just cleaned one of these up the past weekend and it had been giving its owner headaches for over a year,been to two other shops and had rebuild kits installed but would not idle any where it was set at,it was the main nozzle leaking fuel through it and flooding out at idle. Hope this answers some questions. Pioneerguy600
