Oregon Chain 72LGX vs. 72LG

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

RobR45

ArboristSite Lurker
Joined
Mar 3, 2008
Messages
15
Reaction score
1
Location
Indiana
I recently replaced my worn out chains on my Husky 455 with an Oregon Chain 72LGX which I purchased online. Man, the saw really cuts well now. My question is this, "I have seen many online sites that advertise 72LG chain - what is the difference between this chain and the 72LGX?" Thanks in advance for your help.

-Robert
 
It's just the new improved version of LG. Slightly diff cutter design and a little more anti vibe on the chassis.
 
It's just the new improved version of LG. Slightly diff cutter design and a little more anti vibe on the chassis.

Should have better stay-sharp, but I haven't really notised it - I touch up pretty often and have clean green wood.........:)

...and I haven't used it that much either....

What I have notised, is that it is not as smooth in the cut as the LP, even though it has the low-vibe chassis, unlike the LG.
 
Last edited:
The LGX chain has a more aggressive cut out of the box due to a bigger gullet. This is fine if you are strictly using it for chunking up wood, but it's impossible to bore cut with. The large gullet causes it to chatter and kick, and you have little control over the cut while boring. For the firewood guys it works great out of the box great, for the fallers it really needs to be filed first to lessen the gullet. Unless of course your a faller who does not bore cut.
 
Lgx

The LGX chain has a more aggressive cut out of the box due to a bigger gullet. This is fine if you are strictly using it for chunking up wood, but it's impossible to bore cut with. The large gullet causes it to chatter and kick, and you have little control over the cut while boring. For the firewood guys it works great out of the box great, for the fallers it really needs to be filed first to lessen the gullet. Unless of course your a faller who does not bore cut.

Ummmmmmmm.....WTF?!?! I never had lgx chatter on me when borecutting. And I bore almost every tree. You need to keep cutting with bottom corner a little further and then straighten the bar out. I typically go in 4in with bottom of bar nose the do a smooth transaction to straight in. On some trees I start from the back of the tree and bore in forward towards the hinge. This is a less steep boring angle and is smoother with aggressive chains. I have had brand new RSC chatter on me sometimes, then I change the boring angle and it quits. It's smoother when filed back though.:greenchainsaw: :chainsaw: :clap:
 
72lgx/72LG

LGX will stay sharper longer, and they put a more aggressive cutter on it than LG. LG will cut slightly faster with the thinner chrome edge, and it is easier and faster to file, and it is easy on files.:greenchainsaw:
 
What makes the LGX more aggressive? Top plate angle? Side cutter angle? Raker clearance? or is it more hook from running the wheel deeper in and letting the side of the wheel make a pronounced hook? This last thing ( which will disappear with the first filing is similar to the profile on a new Stihl RS but that also only lasts till the first good filing.
 
Lgx

What makes the LGX more aggressive? Top plate angle? Side cutter angle? Raker clearance? or is it more hook from running the wheel deeper in and letting the side of the wheel make a pronounced hook? This last thing ( which will disappear with the first filing is similar to the profile on a new Stihl RS but that also only lasts till the first good filing.

It's not the top plate angle, it was actually less than I suspected when I got my first loop. But I would say it would have to be the combination of lower rakers and more hook. I'd say the rakers when new would be somewhere between .027 and .028 thousands, and the hook is more defined/aggressive.:greenchainsaw: :chainsaw:
 

Latest posts

Back
Top