044 Tank/Handle Fix

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bigbadbob

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Here is how I repaired a 044 broken handle. Thanks to Lakeside for the tips.
I was recently in Lakesides territory and he supplied me with a 044 tank from his personal 'Stihl Stash' I was not allowed to see what else was there!!!
It starts with drilling a couple of hole then placing some custome bent welding rods in place, next apply the epoxy. Then sanding for a pretty decent fix.
 
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The saw will probably be given to my son for firewood. He is hard on stuff so he doesnt need a good one.
It has had a hard life.
Without the tank form Lakeside I was going to part it out.
Here is a picture of the handle finished and the saw bottom, this is a newer 12mm wristpin saw.
So a new set of rings and it should do for firewood.
I sure would have liked to see that stash!!!!:jawdrop:
 
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JB... I've done quite a few like that and they have never failed.


BOB - when the JB is "putty like" (3 hours or so, or much quicker if you use a lamp 6 inches away), use your finger to mould it inside the hande. Then you won't need to grind or file... I also like to dig into the surface in many locations with the tip of very hot soldering iron anywhere the JB is palced. It "fluffs up the glass fibers in the nylon and exposes new material.

You saw the location of two secret stashes... Luckily for you you live north of the border.

Oh.. I gave you the wrong tank. Send it back and I'll send you another :greenchainsaw:
 
JB... I've done quite a few like that and they have never failed.


BOB - when the JB is "putty like" (3 hours or so, or much quicker if you use a lamp 6 inches away), use your finger to mould it inside the hande. Then you won't need to grind or file... I also like to dig into the surface in many locations with the tip of very hot soldering iron anywhere the JB is palced. It "fluffs up the glass fibers in the nylon and exposes new material.

You saw the location of two secret stashes... Luckily for you you live north of the border.

Oh.. I gave you the wrong tank. Send it back and I'll send you another :greenchainsaw:

It fits just fine!!!!
No need to send it back. And those border fees,,, would kill ya!!!
The epoxy ( I used a devcon product was very sticky) was left to set as I had a six hour road trip after applying it.
Isn't that a nice bottom on that one!!!
I see I have the darn red "X"s again!!!!
Will have to see if i can fix that!!!

Ok I redid the pictures in the second post to see if the red "X" is gone and a picture is there.
Can somebody post what they see??? As I always see the pictures.
 
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Yup, just the ticket!

Thanks for the great pics and tips! This is exactly what I needed. Question: What kind of welding rod? Regular mild steel? How about #9 wire (stiff as heck)?

:greenchainsaw: :clap:
 
Excellent

This is an excellent thread bigbadbob! :clap: I've tossed a couple handles broken in that location in the past. Mostly because I didn't think there was a decent fix and because I had access to doner saws.

Man, that 044 is rough lookin'. Looks like either it's an Ekka saw(with Palm damage) or someone dragged the thing behind a truck down a skid trail......
 
This is an excellent thread bigbadbob! :clap: I've tossed a couple handles broken in that location in the past. Mostly because I didn't think there was a decent fix and because I had access to doner saws.

Man, that 044 is rough lookin'. Looks like either it's an Ekka saw(with Palm damage) or someone dragged the thing behind a truck down a skid trail......

Well it looks like crap(a freebee) the pictures make it look good, and it's a newer 12mm pin to. I did a mild port and muffler mod on it, set of rings.
Took it to some fir and with skip it cant be stopped and full it cuts very well,
I was impressed to say the least. :cheers:
 
freee 044?

Well it looks like crap(a freebee) the pictures make it look good, and it's a newer 12mm pin to. I did a mild port and muffler mod on it, set of rings.
Took it to some fir and with skip it cant be stopped and full it cuts very well,
I was impressed to say the least. :cheers:

Cool that you gotta free 044. I am finding out that it is a good saw, even when it is all beat up.

Stihl Rocks!
 
JB...
I also like to dig into the surface in many locations with the tip of very hot soldering iron anywhere the JB is palced. It "fluffs up the glass fibers in the nylon and exposes new material.
:greenchainsaw:

Andy, do you do anything with the actual break material? Should I run the soldering iron along the crack after it is secured together, or put some JB on there like glue, or just make sure the gap is closed when it is repaired? I think it is pretty col to be able to make a sturdy repair of a broken tank handle. Whatta deal, man.

..the flame burns ever brighter........:clap:
 
Tack it together with an iron on the inside to just to hold shape. Degrease and lightly and sand all internal surfaces. Poke the iron into the bondinf surfaces to scarify it.

Remember : there are two small holes to drill for the rod/nailsl, and you need to be carefull in the area where the baclk handle part clamps down - it has to fit... Exact 1:1 proportions of JB.. weight it on a postage scale...


Do it right, and you won't have any sanding or grinding to do - push the JB around when it's in a putty like state to final form.
 
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whut about PC-7 or PC-11?

Just curious.......what do youthink of PC-7 or PC-11? These products make the same claims as JB, but PC-11 is almost white. A thicker, dryer paste than JB, may be too thick.
 
I know JB works... Never was impressed with PC-11.... and don't go for the "quick cure" type of JB or any other epoxy. Longer set is your friend for bond and strength.

Your not going to see the gray.... unless you look up inside the end of the handle.

and... you can always put a dab of Sthil gray up there if you really are EC... :greenchainsaw:
 
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