Oiler on 660 Magnum or 395xp, which is better for long bar lengths?

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Yasha

ArboristSite Operative
Joined
Mar 16, 2008
Messages
184
Reaction score
51
Location
Arkansas
660 Magnum or 395xp, which is better for long bar lengths?

I run a 32" bar on my 660 and sometimes I could use a 48" bar. However, Stihl recommends only up to a 36" bar. I know that the horsepower is there to pull a 50" bar and I've talked to Bailey's mechanic and he agrees. (395xp = 7.1 bhp; 660 = 7.0 bhp.) But, he also said I would need to buy an aftermarket oiler to run a 50" bar on the 660. Others, including my Stihl dealership, have told me the same thing.

The 395xp, according to the Husky catalog for 2006 and 2007, recommends up to a 48" bar. But, the 2008 catalog recommends only a 28" bar. What gives?

I called the regional distributor to find out if Husky had went to a lower grade oiler for their saws and should I buy a 2007 model so I could run a 48" or 50" bar. The Husky distributor called Husky's tech-man and personally asked him my concerns.

I was assured that this year's 395xp was the same as last years and it would still pull and OIL up to a 50" bar.

The question is this, should I buy an aftermarket oiler for the 660 (I don’t even know where to get one or where to ‘mod’ a saw, I’ve always ran stock) or just buy a 395xp and eventually sell the 660? I know the answer is probably keep them both, but I’d like to hear from those who have ran both saws over a period of time (or knows some stats) and can OBJECTIVELY tell me why I should keep one over the other.


Thanks.


FYI: Feel (agility, balance, and lowest vibration) is very important to me, not mention when I’m in the woods I want to be cutting, not working on my saw. My Stihl 200t is so well balanced and we love it in the tree, but the 338 never breaks down (neither has the 660.) The 200t reminds me of a Ferrari, the 338 – a dependable Honda or Volvo.
 
Last edited:
Are we talking about crosscutting or milling? What kind of wood?

Was the oiling ability of the 660 assessed with the stock, half-wrap oiler, or the full-wrap/high-output Australian oiler? I don't know if the high-output would be happy with a 42"+ bar, but I know the standard east-coast, half-wrap oiler won't.





Also, you can get much (most? all?) of the .8hp that the EPA took away from the 660 with the addition of an OEM dual-port muffler cover (just the front half) and a bit of re-enlarging the stock muffler outlet to its original size from the 066 days.
 
It's a half-wrap and I purchased it last August, I believe. I've read on this site about the dual port muffler mods but don't know where to get them. Also, what does 'Snerrelized' (sp?) mean? And what other mods do you know about?

The wood cut is for a tree service that my son and I started last year. 18" to 40" diameter trees are very common - Ozark Mountains in NW Arkansas. It's not uncommon to get 50" to 60" diameter once in awhile. We've trimmed, felled, and bucked many red and white oaks, maples, hackberry, elms, hickory, walnut, some mulberry, and redbuds. No milling of wood. Just tree service and heat with wood every year.
 
It's a half-wrap and I purchased it last August, I believe. I've read on this site about the dual port muffler mods but don't know where to get them.

Your Stihl dealer should have the the dual-port muffler cover in stock, or should be able to order you one. The dealer should also be able to swap the oiler to a high-output one pretty quickly. Andy (Lakeside) wrote up an excellent illustrated guide to swapping the oilers that you should be able to find with a quick search of the old posts.


Also, what does 'Snerrelized' (sp?) mean? And what other mods do you know about?

It means Mr. blsnelling did some woods porting to his saw. As for mods, short of piston/cylinder work, opening up the muffler and retuning is going to get you as much as you can get out of a stock motor.


The wood cut is for a tree service that my son and I started last year. 18" to 40" diameter trees are very common - Ozark Mountains in NW Arkansas. It's not uncommon to get 50" to 60" diameter once in awhile. We've trimmed, felled, and bucked many red and white oaks, maples, hackberry, elms, hickory, walnut, some mulberry, and redbuds. No milling of wood. Just tree service and heat with wood every year.

I'd probably keep the 660 at around 36", and find a big used saw for the huge trunk cuts. It takes a lot of torque to handle 60" hardwood, and the 660 ain't got it. Think something along the lines of a used 084 or 088/880.

60_inch_cut.jpg
 
I have a full wrap 066 and would not recommend running one with a bar more than 42 because it's more than the oiler is designed for.

I am not sure, but I think my 066 puts out a little more oil than my 395, but not much.

I've not had many trees a 42 inch would not reach half way through. In my opinion the only good reason for most to have a 50 inch or longer bar is if they are milling or at least harvest wood where they need a flat cut on valuable timber. And then they should have a saw to match it.

JMO.
 
Last edited:
Had my 066 for about 13 years and usually run a 32" bar. At the time I ordered a 50" cannon bar for limited use (maybe once or twice a year). For this use it works ok and has the power to run it, but the bar is way too heavy for the body of the saw. Although powerful, the 066 is also lite-usually a very good thing. When ordering a bar I would pay close attention to the actual weight of the bar. The other problem I have is the range of change adjustment. As the chain gets broken I have to have a link taken out. Also I recall that the 066 uses the small bar pattern compared to the 076 and 084 so these bars may be harder to get.
 
Your Stihl dealer should have the the dual-port muffler cover in stock, or should be able to order you one. The dealer should also be able to swap the oiler to a high-output one pretty quickly. Andy (Lakeside) wrote up an excellent illustrated guide to swapping the oilers that you should be able to find with a quick search of the old posts.


Sorry, after rereading your post, I saw you stated OEM. When I asked my tech at the dealer he said he didn't know for sure.


It means Mr. blsnelling did some woods porting to his saw. As for mods, short of piston/cylinder work, opening up the muffler and retuning is going to get you as much as you can get out of a stock motor.


Thanks. What about changing the oil mixture ratio to 32:1 to make the engine last longer?


I'd probably keep the 660 at around 36", and find a big used saw for the huge trunk cuts. It takes a lot of torque to handle 60" hardwood, and the 660 ain't got it. Think something along the lines of a used 084 or 088/880.


I talked to my Husky dealer and he recommended the 3120 for a 50" bar, as well. He said he would check with the tech. Do the Huskies in general have a smoother ride than Stihls? From reading this site, it seems to be the general consensus.




Nice saw. Is that an 084, or an 088, or some other monster?
 
Last edited:
That is an 084. the step down from top to muffler is the must obvious diff... but there are many others.

If you are cutting wood that big..... i would go buy one, not new and not ebay..... just my
2cents.gif
 
Thanks. What about changing the oil mixture ratio to 32:1 to make the engine last longer?

No need. Run semi- or full-synthetic at 50:1 (or 43.666:1 if you like adding 6oz to 2 gallons...) and you'll be fine.



I talked to my Husky dealer and he recommended the 3120 for a 50" bar, as well. He said he would check with the tech. Do the Huskies in general have a smoother ride than Stihls? From reading this site, it seems to be the general consensus.

Depends. The 3120 is not "new generation" in terms of anti-vibration, but everything else in the Husqvarna line is (except perhaps the 1xx series, but who cares about those?). I don't foresee any modern saw vibrating the heck out of you, whether Stihl or Husqvarna, or whether it uses springs or rubber bushings. Unless you're super-sensitive to vibration or have nerve issues, I wouldn't place it too high on my list of "must haves" for a new saw purchase.



Nice saw. Is that an 084, or an 088, or some other monster?

It's Ed*L's 084/60" from this past summer. Once bars get that long the start to get annoying - flexible, hard to keep chain tight, difficult to carry around. The difference between my 42" bar and Ed's 60" bar was pretty substantial in terms of ease of use.
 
Thanks. What about changing the oil mixture ratio to 32:1 to make the engine last longer?[=QUOTE]

no run the 50:1 preferably synthetic a richer mix will cause the saw to run hotter and more carbon just use oil that is the most important


Oh GAAAARY !!!!!! Oil thread alert:biggrinbounce2:
 
I have a full wrap 066 and would not recommend running one with a bar more than 42 because it's more than the oiler is designed for.

I am not sure, but I think my 066 puts out a little more oil than my 395, but not much.

I've not had many trees a 42 inch would not reach half way through. In my opinion the only good reason for most to have a 50 inch or longer bar is if they are milling or at least harvest wood where they need a flat cut on valuable timber. And then they should have a saw to match it.

JMO.


Thanks. I saw a youtube video of a logger felling a redwood I believe, maybe ash, with a 660 with a 42" bar. Don't know any mods though.
 
The difference between my 42" bar and Ed's 60" bar was pretty substantial in terms of ease of use.

Grande Dog said the longest bar they ever slod was 144 inches...... think about that for a sec... 090????
 
Had my 066 for about 13 years and usually run a 32" bar. At the time I ordered a 50" cannon bar for limited use (maybe once or twice a year). For this use it works ok and has the power to run it, but the bar is way too heavy for the body of the saw. Although powerful, the 066 is also lite-usually a very good thing. When ordering a bar I would pay close attention to the actual weight of the bar. The other problem I have is the range of change adjustment. As the chain gets broken I have to have a link taken out. Also I recall that the 066 uses the small bar pattern compared to the 076 and 084 so these bars may be harder to get.

Thanks for the experienced advice - helpful.
 
The oil info. I appreciate. Kinda thought the same thing. I read recently, after some mods a guy went to 32:1 on a Stihl 660, just thought I'd ask.

The vibration is starting to get to me more. I hate to admit it Computer user, but I am over 43 now and I've been through hell the last seven years. I was in an executive position with a lot of stress and hours with practically no sleep. So, after semi getting out, I wanted to get back outdoors, so my 18 year old son and I are having a blast being in business together. He's about 12 days older than you Sawdustmaker, and I greatly respect him. He's a good man already.

I've read your posts (Sawdustmaker and others) and appreciate your knowledge. It's really been helpful in making some good business decisions.

Sounds like be content with 42" bar and make it work even for large trunks. There's something about one-passing I like. And I think I just enjoy trying out new toys. I know none of you guys have that problem, huh?
 
Grande Dog said the longest bar they ever slod was 144 inches...... think about that for a sec... 090????


You've got to be kidding! A 12 foot bar? What the hey... I've seen pictures of 090 avs but have never seen one in real life. I wonder what they run/cut like. Any you guys ever ran one? :chainsawguy:
 
Someone has been reading my profile.........:hmm3grin2orange:

Cool.. I want a 084 so bad. But i have yet to get a chance at a tree big enough to challenge my 066.

Who?? me?? No, i don"t have CAD :hmm3grin2orange:
 
You've got to be kidding! A 12 foot bar? What the hey... I've seen pictures of 090 avs but have never seen one in real life. I wonder what they run/cut like. Any you guys ever ran one? :chainsawguy:

They are like 13 hp
 
I talked to my Husky dealer and he recommended the 3120 for a 50" bar, as well. He said he would check with the tech. Do the Huskies in general have a smoother ride than Stihls? From reading this site, it seems to be the general consensus.


Smoother ride? lololol The 3120 you buy today has a rev limiter set very low.. less then 10K.. You'll have a machine that behaves more like a jack hammer than a saw.... search for B_turners posts on his 3120/880 experiences.
 
Back
Top