WHAT IS THE BEST WAY TO TIE IN TWICE WHILE CLIMBING?

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jaystihl

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I have been climbing for about 7 years now ,but I have only used my flip line with no second point of attachment. Dangerous and stupid I know but realizing my luck will only last so long I would like to find out the best way to tie in twice or TITS as I have seen on these forums. I have a Buckingham ergovation saddle with two floating D rings in the middle. Do they sell anything that is premade for safety and positioning purposes(for second point of attachment)? I would like a second vertical line to position on limbs above me when working in the tree. I was thinking of making a 20 ft line with a biner on one end that would go over branch above me and back down to my left d ring and on the right d ring a biner with a prusik for adjusting. any descriptions in laymans terms would be helpful. Thanks
 
I second that you need a climbline. Even spiking removals we always set a climbline before making significant cuts.
I also sometimes climb with a lanyard and flipline. Just gives you more options on positioning and moving throughout the canopy. You can make one on the cheap, as you described. I do suggest a steel snaphook instead of a biner on a lanyard. For me the extra few ounces make it easier to sling around and the rope snaps are quicker and easier to attach/detach.
the next one I build will be longer and use smaller diameter rope to make it lighter and easier to position. Currently using about 15ft of 1/2".
 
But how did climbers in the 50s~70s made 200+ft climb and made those huge diameter tree cuts without life-line or with only 1 lanyard/flipline ?
Unbelievable right ?!
Just because it can be done, doesn't mean it shouldn't be improved.

I can't belive there are climbers out there today that don't know how to climb the ropes.
 
But how did climbers in the 50s~70s made 200+ft climb and made those huge diameter tree cuts without life-line or with only 1 lanyard/flipline ?
Unbelievable right ?!
You comment should be climbers in the 20's - 70's. In those days, having a logger die in the woods was not uncommon or unexpected. Our attitude toward health and safety has evolved since.



 
But how did climbers in the 50s~70s made 200+ft climb and made those huge diameter tree cuts without life-line or with only 1 lanyard/flipline ?
Unbelievable right ?!
How did surgery patients recover without penicillin?
How were babies ever born outside of hospitals?
How did anybody every drive without a seatbelt ?
How did people live through the plagues in the past without basic sanitation?
How did people on a sinking ship survive without live boats?
How did anybody make it out of a burning building before sprinkler systems?
How did wildland firefighters get by without foil shelters?

The answer is the same for all of these questions - both now and "back then": Some live(d) while some die(d). Let's keep moving the needle in the right direction.
 
you guys are right, safety has improved ever since.
but i have my utmost respect to those men who did these daring work them days
no such thing as too safe, thanks to pro's in AS we can work more safely with minimal risk !
 
Thanks for all the input guys, will definitely be Investing In a climb line. Any input on a economy line that is still decent? Also is it more convenient to use a rope grab like on a wire core flip line, or is a prusik hitch better for your climb line? Not sure if the rope grab is safe with a regular climb line
 
16strand1/2", get a150' you wont regret it. Most guys around here like safety blue, I am on arbormaster but any decent line will be fine. Learn a blake's hitch or another simple prusik that can be tied with the tail of the rope, learn it on the ground like the back of your hand. A rope grab will not release when weighted, thus making a descent nearly impossible.
 
Have you bought and read Tree Climber's Companion yet?

How long of a line do you need? You can usually save a few bucks buying from Wesspur in their clearance rope section: http://www.wesspur.com/clearance/clearance-rope.html if they have something you are looking for.

Otherwise, just look through their site, Sherrill, Treestuff, Bailey's and find one that sounds like something you'd like. I like having a tight eye spliced in the end...but if you are pinching pennies, then a knot works too. Plenty of opinions on the different ropes if you search around here. I have used several different ropes and can't say I have found one that is heads above others...but I try to pay attention to what I am buying.
 
All the climbing ropes are within $0.15/ft of each other so 150' will be a difference of $25. Hardly enough to get all cheap about. I like 24 strand, some like 16 strand. Look through the catalogs and you will quickly determine the advantages/disadvantages of each style.

All our new climbers start on a blakes hitch, I've found prussics can lock up and be a really bugger to slide. With experience you can then move to an eye to eye hitch cord and use a more responsive hitch like a VT or distel/klemheist..... Our company doesn't allow mechancial hitches so no zigzaz/lockjack/spiderjack for us.

I've tied a steel lanyard snap to a 20' piece of climbing line and use that as my lanyard along with an i2i and distel. I like the ease of adjusting and can use it as a mini climbing line if necessary.

Buy extra biners, they're like clamps for woodworkers - you can never have enough.
 
I'm still new to climbing in the grand scheme of things, but I don't hold back. I second just using your climbing line as a second tie in. From the start I was taught Blakes hitch on the tail end of your line, and or using a second bit of rope with an eye in it. Because a lot of guys I work with also use a Distel hitch I was taught that too. I use that with a micro pully. Again I don't come from years of experience in climbing but the using a Distel with a pully is super easy. One pull on the slack end of the rope and its adjusted and sets its self. When I climb I like to have the fixed end already tied and the hitch also set and clipped to the back of my belt. That way I avoid spurring my own rope. When its time to tie it in its as easy as clippping one side in, flip the other around, clip it in and tug up on the rope to snug it down.

I only have one flipline right now so quite often I use my climbing line as a second one if I need to get around an arm etc. Same system works just as well on the hip D rings as on the bridge. If I know I'm going to need to use my line as a flip line Ill just leave the hitch side clipped onto my hip D ring to same time.

As for rope goes, Mine isn't a super expensive one, but its defiantly not a piece of crap from the hardware store. As long as it is up to par in weight and shock load you'll be fine.
 
Can you explain how it is you have been climbing for 7 years without a climbline? This is rather unfathomable for me. Are your trees real small?
What I would strongly suggest, rather then trying to learn to climb from this forum, is you buy every book and video on tree climbing you can find and study them.
Them maybe find some tree companies doing jobs and watch them. Check out videos on youtube. Trying to teach yourself this stuff is extremely dangerous but since you have survived 7 year so far maybe your blessed.
 
Thanks to everyone for your input!! Caltree, our trees are not as tall as yours im sure. The trees here that we climb range from 30- 80 ft. I was simply asking a question not trying to learn how to climb from this forum. I know plenty of people that dont use a climb line including myself. I have owned my tree service for 10 years and have removed hundreds of large trees without a climb line. I was simply asking what the best way to tie in twice. I didnt add in the begining that i do tie in with a second lanyard choked around ghe tree while working in the canopy .Thank you to everyone who took the time for good solid advice
 
Absolutely, only removals with spurs, luckily anything up high is usually a removal , not pruning for us
 
Ah yes, I knew the d8ckhead would finally show up. Jeff you definitely hold the record for useless, most annoying, degrading, and negative post. Every post I have seen on this site that was negative you were involved in. I love how you have so much to say behind your little computer. Surly you dont treat people like that in person, if you do im sure you have had your ass handed to you a couple of times and are just to hard headed to realize it.
 
Ah yes, I knew the d8ckhead would finally show up. Jeff you definitely hold the record for useless, most annoying, degrading, and negative post. Every post I have seen on this site that was negative you were involved in. I love how you have so much to say behind your little computer. Surly you dont treat people like that in person, if you do im sure you have had your ass handed to you a couple of times and are just to hard headed to realize it.

I don't mean to be, I honestly thought this was a pro forum,
if it was in the 101 forum I would of been much more nice!
Sorry to hurt your feeling's, but I stand by my post.
Every word.
Jeff
 
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