log splitter build: wedge or pushplate?

[lapeer20m]

I pick up the i beam today for my new log splitter. I already have a 10hp engine, 16gmp 2 stage pump and all the hoses/valve and an awesome industrial cylinder. The cylinder is 5 feet long, and has an outside diameter of 6". I"m not sure if it's a 5 or 5.5" inside diameter. I also have a spare cylinder.

I want to build a traditional splitter but with the option to remove the beam and attach it to my backhoe for large rounds, like this:



What are the advantages/disadvantages of attaching a push plate to the ram vs a wedge?

I want the flexibility to easily convert to a 4 way wedge, like this:



but i think a wedge attacked to the ram may work better for splitting the large rounds.

Are there any good designs for an easily converted 4 way with the wedge attached to the ram?

 

[RVALUE]

Consider whether you want the wood to move or the splitter, (hooked to a backhoe,) and what might go wrong with each.

 

[Cheesecutter]

On my skid steer splitter I have wedge welded to the beam. The downside is "chasing" the round tearing up the ground after each split.

 

[lapeer20m]

I just took delivery of the I beam.

 

[cus_deluxe]

ive never seen the backhoe attachment like that but i prefer the wedge on the beam, only drawback is that at that point you cant make a splitter that goes vertical, which to me isnt a big deal but personal preference.

 

[lapeer20m]

I think I am going to stick with the wedge on the beam.

Timberwolf does it that way. My understanding is that they are pretty much the gold standard in splitters for professional production.

It is much easier to add/remove or adjust a 4 way wedge on the beam. A 4 or 6 way wedge is a must for me.

Having to reposition while splitting large rounds may be less than ideal, but having the splitter on the end of a hoe rather than a skid steer should make this process easier.

I have most of the pieces and hope to get started this week if I can find time.

 

[Preston]

After using the Huskee with the push wedge, if I were to build one I would use a table on the wood end with the push plate. One thing I've never seen talked about is the distance of the cylinder of the beam. I would like to have one with greater distance from the beam to the center of the rod. On the larger rounds which seems to have, it is a real pain to have to split just part of the round. Most of the cylinders are about 2 inches off the beam. I would like to have around 4 inches with a taller splitting point. Easier for the large stuff.

 

[walkerdogman85]

I went with a pusher plate as it's easier to split on the end and have it fall on the table as hold it as it falls, if your going with a log lift. I have used both and the pusher was a better option for me as I wanted a 4 way option and a 6 way ( I haven't made the 6 way yet). Either way think it through my splitter build is on going...

 

[Sawyer Rob]

I own splitters both ways, and as far as I'm concerned, Timber Wolf got it right!

SR

 

[walkerdogman85]

I built mine after the Timberwolf.

 

[Preston]

I own splitters both ways, and as far as I'm concerned, Timber Wolf got it right!

SR

I like this one for sure. But the cost keeps me doing what I'm doing.

 

[lapeer20m]

I finally had a few spare minutes to drag the cylinder and beam into the shop.

I spent a few minutes mocking things up and took a few photos.

I think this writing is the size of the I beam:



The outside diameter of the cylinder is about 6 inches




And I didn't take time to grab my caliper but the rod appears to be about 2.5 inches in diameter:



All mocked up maximum opening looks to be about 24 inches.



I hope to start welding this weekend.

 

[lapeer20m]

a new question.......

how high should the cylinder be off of the beam? or more correctly, how many inches should the center of the rod be above the beam? I'm thinking about raising the cylinder approximately 2 inches, which would put the center of the rod at about 5" above the beam.

Here are some fun numbers to play with......the backhoe hydraulic system is rated at 23 gpm.

with a 5" cylinder and 24" stroke extend time should be about 5.3 seconds, and retract about 4 seconds for a total 9.3 second cycle time.

maximum psi is only 2,300, which gives me only 45,160 pounds of force or 22.5 tons.

 

[cutforfun]

I would keep the cylinder down and build a longer base for the pusher plate, if you rase the cylinder you will need to support the ram end of it. The higher the cylinder is also puts a lot more stress on the cylinder back mount and beam. Same with using a taller wedge

I would make the sliding base 1 1\2 times the length of your pusher plate minimum. If that makes sense.

 

[Preston]

This has been my question also. But I would go with 5 inches or more and support where necessary. My little Huskee just make a mess out of anything more than 18 inches. I would like a higher push point with a taller wedge to get more to the center of the round. I have to really man handle the rounds if they are much over 14 inches. My thinking here is the point of the rod attachment to the push plate should be a close to center of the plate a possible. If I were able, with the tools and such, that's what I would try.

I know what I'm seeing in my head but probably not explaining it very well.

 

[lapeer20m]

I welded the support brackets for the cylinder this morning. It's 3/8" angle. 6" x 3"



On a side note: I've been making most of my cuts to the steel with a sawzall. I reluctantly bought this new single blade from home depot for $10.00 called a diablo steel demon. I've been cobbling together welding projects for almost 20 years and this blade is the single most fantastic sawzall blade i've ever used. A sawzall is totally the wrong tool for the job, but this new diablo blade slices through 1/2 inch plate like a hot knife through butter.

 

[Otahyoni]

My favorite portable cutting tool so far is a Harbor Freight portable band saw. As long as what you're cutting fits in the throat it smokes a sawzall. Just throw away the band that comes with it and get some decent bi-metal ones.

 

[lapeer20m]

I just thought of another consideration......I am going to mount my cylinder "up side down" so the ports are facing toward the beam in an effort to protect the hydraulic lines during backhoe operation mode.

The downside is that it will require more 90's which will likely negatively impact my cycle time to some degree.

I will need to make sure to leave enough clearance between the beam and the cylinder.

 

[lapeer20m]

Progress:

Holes drilled for the bushings



I found this 1/2" thick 5" wide wear/cutting edge for a snow plow. It's too hard to cut with a sawzall blade and it's already sharpened.



I cut it with an abrasive blade on an angle grinder and welded two pieces together:





Then I cut a notch in the ibeam.




Then the cold killed my camera.....

I ended up getting the wedge welded into place and the end of the beam boxed in.

Tomorrow I hope to fabricate the push plate and hopefully attach the splitter to the end of the backhoe and test it out.

 

[cantoo]

lapeer, not sure what your cutting blade is made of but I used a chunk of grader blade for my backhoe bucket cutting edge and it didn't work so well. I assume the heat from tack welding it on must have removed the temper, the thing snapped in half like it was butter. I was a little pizzed because it took awhile to fab up and broke before I even got to use it much. I've got plain flat bar cut with a torch and ground to an edge using a grinder and it looks and worked like the day I put it on. It's great to reuse stuff but something it ends up taking more work. I'm sure there are more guys on here that could advise you better on the blade you have and how it will work.