What should I do with the edge on this axe?

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

pcrevelli

ArboristSite Operative
Joined
Jun 24, 2012
Messages
121
Reaction score
144
Location
california
I have this 1930 double bit Chemical Axe, that, until I let a friend use it, had a near perfect edge. I did not realize until after I watched him swing, that he let the axe hit the dirt after each swing splitting some wood (we can talk about the right tool for the job another time). You can see the result on both edges.

Should I try and grind em out, or leave it as is?
 

Attachments

  • doublebitaxe.jpg
    doublebitaxe.jpg
    40 KB · Views: 146
  • ChemicalAxe.jpg
    ChemicalAxe.jpg
    62.7 KB · Views: 148
  • Chemicleaxe.jpg
    Chemicleaxe.jpg
    71.1 KB · Views: 138
I would say take your time with a good file and try to get as much out as you can. High speed grinders are never good for axe/maul heads. takes out any temper in the steel and will tend to harden and make the edge more brittle.
 
I agree, too much heat with most grinders. Go buy a new flat file and have at it. Get it blended back inwould be where I start.
 
A grinder works just fine if you are smart about it. Keep dunking the axe in a pail of water to keep it cool.
 
Common damage as noted file it out or 60 grit sanding pad on a vsr drill will make things quicker and keep the speed down so you do not burn along with dunking.
 
Common damage as noted file it out or 60 grit sanding pad on a vsr drill will make things quicker and keep the speed down so you do not burn along with dunking.
Thanks for all the suggestions. I'll take my time and make project out of it.
 
A good 12" [ single cut] flat file is nice after carefully roughing it in with power tools and water.
Draw filing ( from corner to corner) will help you keep the file at an appropriate angle to the rest of the head.
From there you can pursue whatever level of stoning or practiced filing may be suffice for your preferences.
The sharpness of the file and changing the angle will influence the keenness of the edge vs speed of metal removal.

You'll need strap the handle to something steady or clamp it in a vice,
just Dont forget pad the handle and don't crush it or squeeze a notch in it with the vice
or break it from too much strapping tension.

When you have the axe secured and start filing Be VERY careful with your hands.
Only takes ONE little slip up to lay your hand open or cut a finger to to the bone.
When draw filling , your hands are passing the blade in a motion that works EXACTLY like a disc type meat slicer (think of an Arbys slicer).

and A cut in the wrist region can very easily leave you with tendon problems
that will give you troubles for the rest of of your life.

Trying to hold that double bit between your knees and do it
.....is simply .....begging .....
to have it end up hitting your ankle or foot.
 
So again, thanks for the suggestions. I ended up using a 4 1/2" grinder with an 80 grit flapper disc, and slowly reshaped the edges, alternating between them to keep them from heating up. It took about twenty minutes to get the chips out, now I am ready to finish the edges up with a stone.
 

Attachments

  • 20150228_133925.jpg
    20150228_133925.jpg
    49.5 KB · Views: 52
  • ChemicalAxeNewEdge.jpg
    ChemicalAxeNewEdge.jpg
    71.3 KB · Views: 53
  • newedge.jpg
    newedge.jpg
    67 KB · Views: 53
  • regrind.jpg
    regrind.jpg
    58.7 KB · Views: 54
Back
Top