New Super Split HD Owner!!

[USMC615]

Took me a while to find the post also. Most of the splitting is at full throttle at charity cuts because at charity cuts there is enough people to keep the splitter busy. For personal splitting the motor is at 1/2 to 3/4 throttle unless the wood is nasty. But then 90% of the hours on my splitters are at charity cuts.

My tach for motor is just a stick on hour meter that wraps a wire around the spark plug. The meter for the fly wheel is a special device with counter and stop watch built into one. I got it at a garage sale from a old machinist.

Doug, installed a Hardline hour meter/tachometer this afternoon and my rpm's at WOT are 3850-3870 on the Honda 6.5 GX. The paperwork with the meter never gave any +/- tolerance. I can't state accuracy by no means of this thing. It did run the exact rpm range at lowest idle and WOT several times of cutting it off, let sit a few min's, crank it up again. I remember your rpm was 3760 at WOT on your same engine HD, and your SE with the 9 hp Honda GX was 3870. Seems about a hundred rpm difference btwn the HD's. Again, could just be tolerance variable of the tachs.

 

[KiwiBro]

Here's a pretty darn cool hydraulic super split rival, with 4-way wedge.



I'm liking lots of things about this, including it is commercially made and available at a fair price. The wedge I like - adjustable, and the angle on the top focusses the force well.

Max seems to be 9t force. Would prefer it had more without losing speed.

 

[KiwiBro]

What about this for a 'mechanical' splitter?

Swap it out for a big flywheel or pair of them, with a 4-way wedge, and it's a super productive, auto-cycle option.

 

[unclemoustache]

Nice. I wonder what happens when that one jams? Is there a way to back it out, or will the motor get damaged?

 

[KiwiBro]

Nice. I wonder what happens when that one jams? Is there a way to back it out, or will the motor get damaged?

the motor in that one is electric so will probably have an overload cut out, blow a fuse, burn up the belts or break a few gears ;-)

 

[Joesell]

I took a look at how close my ram gets to the wedge today. I was pretty surprised to see that it actually touches! There's a little gap on most of it, but the middle were the weld is built up touches the wedge. I like it. No problem cutting threw the stringy stuff.

 

[dave_dj1]

I like how they always seem to have nice straight grained and short wood. Bring one of those babies to my lot and see how long they could hold up to one round, 24-26" long and the same or larger diameter.

 

[sunfish]

I like how they always seem to have nice straight grained and short wood. Bring one of those babies to my lot and see how long they could hold up to one round, 24-26" long and the same or larger diameter.

Yep, this splitter ain't for you.

 

[USMC615]

I took a look at how close my ram gets to the wedge today. I was pretty surprised to see that it actually touches! There's a little gap on most of it, but the middle were the weld is built up touches the wedge. I like it. No problem cutting threw the stringy stuff.View attachment 415093

That's odd that under motor power the rack would travel that far to make contact of the weld bead. Yours HD? I remember Sam-tip stating from a conversation with Paul that they had decreased the end travel of the rack for safety reasons. Seems odd we're getting different end travel measurements. I guess maybe when they were made over the yrs is dictating the differences. I would think from a mfg standpoint, end travel to about 1/2" would be an ideal constant to handle stringy stuff, much less the straight grain stuff that pops well before that point.

 

[sam-tip]

Paul did say some did come close to the wedge. But I thought Paul meant older ones. Joesell's super split might be one of them. Wonder when Joesell's was made?

PS I have been slacking on testing my mod to my splitter.

 

[USMC615]

Paul did say some did come close to the wedge. But I thought Paul meant older ones. Joesell's super split might be one of them. Wonder when Joesell's was made?

PS I have been slacking on testing my mod to my splitter.

Bad thing about the SS's...no riveted ID plate or otherwise stating model, yr mfg'd, etc. I think it would make a helluva selling point for Paul, especially for folks that buy a used model, and possibly see the age and how well or otherwise the machine has held up. Of course the owner/operator of used machines determines that factor with proper maintenance, etc, from a selling standpoint.

 

[KiwiBro]

I don't think he has any trouble selling them as it is, and that seems to apply to anyone selling a used one. That said, there is always room for improvement, even when the best in class.

 

[USMC615]

I don't think he has any trouble selling them as it is, and that seems to apply to anyone selling a used one. That said, there is always room for improvement, even when the best in class.

I agree...but it would be nice if some readily identifiable markings were affixed. That way, a buyer of used could say possibly, 'damn what a machine, and look honey, it's older than both us combined' theory. Certainly wouldn't hurt the sales marketing of such. I can imagine Paul gets his fair share of 'picture sending' when it comes to replacement racks, etc when buyers of used want to rebuild. Btwn three of us now, we've gotten different end travel rack measurements, I think a descriptive, affixed riveted plate ID would certainly help to identify.

 

[stratton]

Sandhill, thank you very much for your post. I have sold over 100 cords the last 2 years and have been seriously thinking about getting one of these machines ( I currently have an I&O with a 4 way) and it has always seemed too good to be true that there was no information regarding durability, wear and tear, maintenance, etc.
For those who have run 100's of cords through theirs, how have they held up? What kind of down times and maintenance costs have you encountered?

JRIDER, I sell 100-150 crds per yr.... The ss i use now is well over 5 yrs old. This machine will need a flywheeel gear soon but i still have some time left. The first ss i brought was back in "89" This is my 3rd machine. Luke.

 

[Joesell]

That's odd that under motor power the rack would travel that far to make contact of the weld bead. Yours HD? I remember Sam-tip stating from a conversation with Paul that they had decreased the end travel of the rack for safety reasons. Seems odd we're getting different end travel measurements. I guess maybe when they were made over the yrs is dictating the differences. I would think from a mfg standpoint, end travel to about 1/2" would be an ideal constant to handle stringy stuff, much less the straight grain stuff that pops well before that point.

When I took the picture, it was with the motor off. I pulled the rack out by hand. I didn't think it would make a difference. It's an HD.

Paul did say some did come close to the wedge. But I thought Paul meant older ones. Joesell's super split might be one of them. Wonder when Joesell's was made?

PS I have been slacking on testing my mod to my splitter.

Mine is only about 6 weeks old.

 

[USMC615]

If ya pull the ram head manually, they'll all go to the wedge...under engine load is where we see the difference...I think all about the bevel end on the rack determines draw back.

 

[Joesell]

If I get a chance, I'll try the 2x4 test

 

[sam-tip]

I did get a chance to run my modified pusher yesterday. Worked great on some fresh Elm and Ash. Building on 1" spacer now. The one I tried was 0.65 ".

 

[USMC615]

If I get a chance, I'll try the 2x4 test

Gotcha. Yeh we're looking at the dimensions under power...just seems screwy to me based on model type same, or not. Be real curious as to what your end travel is though.

 

[USMC615]

I did get a chance to run my modified pusher yesterday. Worked great on some fresh Elm and Ash. Building on 1" spacer now. The one I tried was 0.65 ".

Great... Good deal. I think the 1" should serve ya well over the 5/8 or so. Let us know how it goes.